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Byran
climber
Half Dome Village
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Nov 24, 2017 - 06:14pm PT
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I think always tying in with an overhand could cause extra wear on the rope. IME the end of the rope tends to get soft and worn out from the constant loading and cinching down of the tie in knot. Sometimes the rest of the rope will be fine, but an end will need to be trimmed off because it gets so worn. Since the overhand is a weaker knot than the fig8 (the rope bends over itself at a harder angle) it might accelerate this wear. This is just speculation.
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cragrat
climber
New Zealand
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Feb 23, 2018 - 12:54am PT
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Swiss ace Eric Talmadge taught it to me in 1990 and I have been using it ever since - lots of dogging and never a problem untying.
According to the sages of the international guild of knot tyers " the technical name ought to be 'Offset overhand eye knot" - because its corresponding 'bend' is #1410 Offset over bend. One of the benefits is the tail is tucked back in towards your body so there is no tail in the road. Which can be another distraction when making hard clips. It's neat tidy and clean.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Au8KiUS4RCc
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 23, 2018 - 07:32am PT
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Tried it today at the gym. After two very light falls and several hangs I found the competition knot to be harder to untie than the standard figure-8. I think the figure-8's lack of compactness is a benefit when untying. I often take new climbers climbing, and they struggle to untie their knot because they don't have a strategy. Once you know how to bend it, working the outer pair of loops away from the knot and pushing both cords coming out of the knot together, it's not hard unless one has taken a real whipper.
Finding the competition knot harder to untie than a figure-8 doesn't seem to be the common experience, but YMMV applies. And unless the outcomes are grossly different, it isn't going be easy to quantify "ease of untying" anyway.
One clear confounding factor in the quote above is that the poster has learned specific strategies for untying the figure-8 but has no corresponding experience with the competition knot.
As an aside, I have no particular bias in this since I don't tie in with either of these knots.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Feb 23, 2018 - 11:07am PT
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Yesterday, my climbing partner Geoff, suggested that large climbers tie a figure 10+ follow-through so that untying after weighting the rope would be easier.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Feb 23, 2018 - 12:38pm PT
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Backed up double bowline is the easiest to untie after reefing on it. At least from my experiments.
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knudeNoggin
climber
Falls Church, VA
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Finding the competition knot harder to untie than a figure-8 doesn't seem to be the common experience, but YMMV applies.
Having seen the competition knot and its orientation vis-a-vis an overhand knot, do the same thing but with the figure 8 as your base. This might be more easily loosened?
*kN*
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Tried it in the gym last week. Hmmm. Was fairly easy to untie.
My usual tie in is the standard figure eight and I tuck the tail back through the knot. Fairly easy to untie.
One of the guys I was climbing with (the three of us probably have easily over a 100 years of experience...ha ha), uses a standard figure eight and had cinched that thing down so tight in a bit of a pop off that he needed some encouragement (or...help) untying from the rope. Funny.
Anyhow...jury still out for me.
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