What climb is this?

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MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2017 - 06:20pm PT

Many thanks, Tar. We could not find a lot of info. I will be going into details about what we did do.

from Tarbuster's thread:

he and others do all three Spires (Flahead, Shos, NP) in a day (about 12 hours climbing time).

The spires are Flathead, Shoshone, and Nez Perce. Robert and I did 3 pitches in about 12 hours. Campsite to campsite.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 14, 2017 - 06:50pm PT

John Harlin III did four guidebooks covering the US, back in the 80s.
The Rocky Mountain edition covers Blodgett, IIRC.

I thought for sure I had that one here, but can't find it.

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2017 - 06:57pm PT

Randall Green did a Falcon guide to Montana, out in 1995. We could not find a copy though we spent more time in used book stores and public libraries than we did on rock (and in coffee shops and brew pubs).

Jordy

Trad climber

Bozeman, MT

Sep 14, 2017 - 07:07pm PT

Timebinder blodgett canyon

yanqui

climber

Balcarce, Argentina

Sep 14, 2017 - 07:31pm PT

Spent a month or so there in 1980.

Did early repeats of this:

and this:

and some other stuff as well

.

Never climbed Timebinder but I love Blodgett!

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 14, 2017 - 07:58pm PT

Now we're getting somewhere!

When I get my half-million dollar genetic rejuvenation and score some soft tissue which can hold up to normal activity, this is one of the places I would love to return to!

Spider Savage

Mountain climber

The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles

Sep 14, 2017 - 10:03pm PT

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 15, 2017 - 01:22pm PT

Jordy:

Your reference to Timebinder ... Are you talking about a route?

Coincidentally that sounds like the name of the acupuncture/chiropractor/whatever modalities he was into, who treated me.

I think it was Dr. Timothy Binder?
Lives not far from the mouth of the canyon. Quite a dude. I think he lived in a weird structure, a geodesic dome, of the type designed by Buckminster Fuller originally.

Maybe was a yurt on the property as well.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 15, 2017 - 01:23pm PT

Psyched!

I found my Jon Harlin III Rocky Mountain Rock Climbs:

Print them suckers out and get out there: time is a-wasting away!

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Sep 15, 2017 - 01:30pm PT

One of my old partners climbed Timebinder about 20 years ago and loved it.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 15, 2017 - 01:39pm PT

Photos from my 2008 recon:

Nez Perce:

Shoshone:

Flathead:

Cragar

climber

MSLA - MT

Sep 15, 2017 - 01:40pm PT

1st one looks like Blackfoot Dome and the one at the top of this page with the right fasing dihedral at the top is the Drip Buttress.

Awesome Tar, those Falcon guides had a way of gentrifying the literature of the B'Roots. Cool FA info as well. Man, Rick Torre's guide is pretty good and hilarious if you like SandyBags. I still see Tobin about once a year or so.

Timebinder is on the Prow and has a serious hematoma pitch to get you to the Red corner that is classic and hella short, as are almost all of the crack features in the B'Root.

As of now there are 100's of more routes than those days and in typical Montana fashion they aren't talked about much. Also, if the Choss Compels You then Blodgett is your promised land. The 'best' rock in the B'Roots tends to be higher and if your lucky you might even find yourself pinching a crystal or two!

If your ever down there, on a rest day, the hike up one canyon south of Blodgett. It is Canyon Ck and it is worth it just to view micro Flathead, Shoshone and Nez Perce buttress like features. The granitic bodies that make up the 3 prominent buttresses must be oriented N&S in the range and were sliced E&W via glaciation.

Tar's pics above are of Flathead, Shoshone and Nez Perce from L to R.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 15, 2017 - 01:46pm PT

My guide is from Chockstone Press, Denver Colorado, 1985

The Climbers Guide to North America Volume III Rocky Mountain Rock Climbs
Jon Harlin III, illustrations by Adele Hammond

Cragar

climber

MSLA - MT

Sep 15, 2017 - 01:53pm PT

Hey Tar, thanks for the info and I had never seen that one, just Rick's, FalconCrap and the numerous hand written topos on scraps of paper. The B'Roots are loaded and I was lucky enough one summer to have T-W-Th off and spen almost all of those weekends exploring and doing the classics.

Trad climber

Calgary

Sep 15, 2017 - 01:57pm PT

Climbed the Afterburner in 1987. A bit stout for 10- and I remember a run out 5.9 pitch before the crux.

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2017 - 08:15pm PT

Cragar got the formation: Blackfoot Dome

and Roy included the route: The Free Lament

and yanqui came through with great images from the EB's-and-nuts to Firé's-and-cams horizon

and I'll bet Robert has that Harlin guide but never thought to look there now that we have search platforms.

But we had a good time.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 15, 2017 - 08:50pm PT

Thanks Cragar,

For your identification of Drip Buttress, the left of the two in the photograph:

And would the Prow be the more rounded buttress just to the right?
You said Timebinder is located on the Prow, and do I see the Red Corner, the identifying feature you mentioned, at about two thirds height, right facing?

Same buttresses, from a position further up canyon:

Drip Buttress:

I looked in my notes, and sure enough, Tim Binder is in Hamilton, right off of Blodgett Camp Road.

To my mind it would be too much of a coincidence for that route (Timebinder) to somehow not be named after him?

Kind of a cosmic dude, alternative medicine type, you know. Timebinder, sounding quasi-mystical, could be the shoe that fits!

..............................................

I recall on another thread some years ago it was mentioned that some of the white scarring is where the funky rock shows up. I could see that being the case, looking at these pictures.

I'm referencing the lighter colored rock to the right of the right facing dihedrals and beneath the roofs.