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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 24, 2016 - 08:59pm PT
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Nice Moose Rack.!
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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May 24, 2016 - 09:13pm PT
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Nice thread, Jim. I've been cutting the water weight down a lot over they years. Stuff weighs a ton.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 24, 2016 - 09:25pm PT
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Mark Force that was a great post @ 6:06!
Looker, stop being such a ball-cupper. Don't worry your balls are worth cupping too. By somebody....
....somewhere....
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john hansen
climber
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May 24, 2016 - 09:29pm PT
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Hey Jim, I am glad you are going back to see Lotak after 38 years,
That is pretty amazing.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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May 24, 2016 - 09:32pm PT
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I keep a razor blade and 2 high strength painkillers duct taped to the inside lid of my helmet. And weed has a way better weight to intoxicant ratio than booze. How's that for minimalism.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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May 24, 2016 - 09:41pm PT
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I appreciate the advice, especially considering the cast of characters.
Edit: Donini joke: Mr. Donini, did you discover your way, high on a mountain, etched on a stone tablet?
Edit: I'm not worthy to hold the candle of your headlamp.
Edit: Please send pics of your upcoming trip, and TFPU! (seriously)
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 24, 2016 - 09:58pm PT
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Bunch of generalizations that often get people rescued from storms or killed.
Better to prepare to bivy and bivy than not prepare to bivy and bivy. And, all due respect to venerable Yvon, bringing the "minimal" gear to bivy is rarely going to mean the difference between using it or not.
"Minimalism" is a pretty empty term once you parse it out and realize that it really means, "Take just what you believe you need." People have died on El Cap because they "knew" that they didn't need rain gear.
And "believe" is going to vary a ton between personalities, experience-levels, perceived nature of the route, first-ascent or known repeat, intention (the loaded climber on the 5.7 might well have been on a first 5.7 trad lead), and so on.
The generalizations of the OP are vacuous at best and dangerous at worst imho.
(Okay, hit me with the inevitable dogpile!)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 24, 2016 - 09:59pm PT
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Clint! Great example.
A lot of climbers do the sling or cord for their chalk bag belt.
Early on before I got my beefy Chouinard Bod harness, we would tie into the inch tubular webbing as a back up. And for raps, you always had a spare bit of tat sling to leave behind.
But nowadays, I use supertape. Less bulky. The idea of prusik loop is bit more practical. Triple duty: chalk bag sling, tat cord for rapping, and prusik!
But for a tat sling I like big 6mm, and for prusiking a smaller diameter seems better, especially on a smaller lead line diameter.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 24, 2016 - 10:15pm PT
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SuperTopo has just shown me how to cut down on stuff...
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 24, 2016 - 10:17pm PT
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The generalizations of the OP are vacuous at best and dangerous at worst imho.
yeah well, i thought his opinions were just antiquated by the environment he was in.. and thought he must need to get (farther) out more;)
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ecdh
climber
the east
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May 24, 2016 - 10:26pm PT
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to F: no way, weed still needs papers, a lighter, get out of the wind etc. its a false economy.
what you want is acid.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 24, 2016 - 10:39pm PT
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^^^ HA! fuey on you, everything i had goin in to my mouth came out my nose when reading that.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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May 24, 2016 - 10:54pm PT
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You can smoke from a stopper or a snowball. You should carry a lighter anyways for "emergencies". The Lightweight rainshell Donini is carrying for you can jam your head into for a wind break.
LSD is for Jtree soloing daze. Not Alpine rock routes. Cmon man, if you loose time grokking out on quartz crystals and having multiple epiphanies per pitch, you'll never get off before dark.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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May 24, 2016 - 11:43pm PT
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all good points and a well reasoned reply, i cant argue with that.
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perswig
climber
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May 25, 2016 - 02:49am PT
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...although it did have the clip-on
side pockets.
^^^ FNG.
Dale
(chuckle)
ETA: good point by RobertL - without the whole skill-set package, going light might just be flirting w/ natural selection. NTTIAWWT.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 25, 2016 - 05:48am PT
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Carbo-loading can be a useful strategy
Does this body make my gear look small?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 25, 2016 - 06:40am PT
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I always take more than I need with me to the base of things, though all those things are no more than 4 pitches tall. I very often, leave the ' boat anchors' behind. The thing is that the toys of the game are half the fun, I like the design and craft of placing them, :- Tri-cams & Units, chocks of all kinds. I want to place a link cam in a roof and swing on it, to see how those things work.
Always on the harness is a simple flat belay plate, tucked into a strap, a large locking biener,
tri-bloc, toothed rope clamp, (rope man like) a second tied belay loop, I often use a, doubled over 10 ft stretch of 6mm. as a gear sling, ( can be worn split, a loop hanging on both sides, allowing for a better distribution of weight& gear.)
( I have only just used these 'new' super thin long ""alpine draws""? Scary. But so light. . . )
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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May 25, 2016 - 07:41am PT
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donini better change his tune when he logs into the model railroader's forum. i'm guessing he won't make any friends bad mouthing those blinking crossing signs and realistic looking conductors complete with hip flask
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2016 - 08:04am PT
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Experience is certainly the best way to learn and there is a wealth of it on ST. Nothing wrong with imparting a bit of that to inexperienced climbers venturing into new realms....they certainly don't get that type of info. from their local gym.
An older guy took me under his wing in 1967, my fledgling season in the Tetons,..I've since forgotten his name but not the valuable lessons he imparted.
If I sound a bit preachy, remember....there is a reason I got the nickname "Sergeant Rock" in Indian Creek.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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very light day pack (not hydration type)
Let us know!