If you THINK you need it, you don't...if you KNOW....

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donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Topic Author's Original Post - May 24, 2016 - 04:42pm PT

You need it, you do. It's been my observation that a lot of climbers today carry WAY too much gear.
I saw a party on the KOR/INGALLS on Castleton with the second and third climbers carrying heavy packs with huge heavyweight hiking boots strapped to them. For a climb like that NOBODY should have a pack and no water is needed.
You even see it when people toprope with belay gloves, two belay devices and assorted cordelletes on their harnesses.
When climbing alpine and alpine rock, minimalism will not only make climbing more fun it could very well be the difference between an evening in the bar or one shivering on a ledge.
Yvon Chouinard famously once said..."bring bivouac gear and you'll bivouac."
I may have done a similar thread like this a few years ago but with the climbing season full on it bears repeating.
If I am doing a Grade IV or V rock climb in the Valley, the Sierra or the Black etc.I have a small 1.5 liter hydration pack with a headlamp and lighter in it's small pocket, a few GU's in my pants pocket and a windshell wraped around my waist....good to go.
Oh....and bring a watch and refer to it so you know how you're doing.
A whole other topic could be how much time people waste getting in and out of belays....that could fill volumes.
The Black Canyon mantra..."a rope, a rack and the shirt on your back."

rick sumner

Trad climber

reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska

May 24, 2016 - 05:16pm PT

Exactly.

Minimalism equals speed and success. Although I've forgotten this in my old age

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2016 - 05:21pm PT

I don't know, I've found that the older you are the less you can carry.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

May 24, 2016 - 05:36pm PT

The operative term is "if YOU" know. The subjective learning that occurs by someone thin and fast is different than someone heavier and slower.

When slower, the experience of heat is prolonged, and thus water over a prolonged period necessitates bringing more hydration to be comfortable.

With that said, making do with less is good cardinal rule.

Gri is a good example.

Cordellette? maybe, depends on anchors. Don't need a Big Wall rig, for bolted anchors on a multi pitch, unless the bolts are bad. If the bolts are bad, bring a replacing kit.

Nut tool? Maybe not, does your leader always jam them in? Rip up and then out. SHort close to ground and not multi pitches? buy a replacement nut if one gets stuck.

rain shell? going to Tuolumne in bad forecast? yes, and maybe a light extra layer.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2016 - 05:40pm PT

It's all about the thought processes used.....individual needs may differ but if you're thinking minmalism you're on the right track.

the albatross

Gym climber

Flagstaff

May 24, 2016 - 05:47pm PT

Jim you have some good points. I must remember though that you have been climbing 180 days a year for half a century. I tend to go on the heavy side, but my partner Brian McCray always went fairly light. If you are climbing often and have your systems dialed it is the way to go.

I love using a grigri and it hasn't left my harness for a decade. "Hands free" belaying (not at all recommended but nice if your partner clocks you with a rock) and single rope raps. Also carry a traditional tube style belay / double rope rappel device.

WBraun

climber

May 24, 2016 - 05:49pm PT

I need everything!!!

This is why Werner Ladders were created.

And Werner trucks to carry all my sh!t everywhere.

You people are light weights,

Pussies :-)

You need heavy sh!t to do real sh!t ..... :-)

rick sumner

Trad climber

reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska

May 24, 2016 - 05:50pm PT

Moose-lose the belt and let's do some cragging. Looking for partner any day of the week June 4-12 for ER.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2016 - 05:54pm PT

Snide, snide Cragman....dude maybe you should realize that you and others on ST have a lot of knowledge you can pass on to newer climbers. A lot of them lurk here but don't post because they might get shot down.
I don't claim to know it all but I don't mind passing on things I have learned over the last fifty years....maybe you should consider chiming in with your vast accumulation of knowledge rather than throwing digs my way.
I'm also actively out there in climbing areas seeing what is going on....perhaps you're not.

the albatross

Gym climber

Flagstaff

May 24, 2016 - 06:00pm PT

A small knife in the pants pocket is sometimes handy for cutting old webbing off anchors or cutting a piece of cord for an anchor (might not be as crucial at a sport climbing area).

Mark Force

Trad climber

Ashland, Oregon

May 24, 2016 - 06:06pm PT

He had it down! Dick Dorworth in the 70s.
http://sustainableplay.com/climbing-to-freedom/

A while back was climbing with a friend and he was leading something with a ton of gear on his harnes along with cordolettes, grigri, shoes, water bottle, chalk bag, and two PAS - one for each side.

He couldn't get up it cuz he couldn't get in it. Came down and gave the lead to me. I looked up and took what I needed on a shoulder sling. Got in and heel-toed right up.

When I haven't been climbing I laugh at myself for how much I think I need to be my pacifier.

Yeah, carrying a knife is good. I always bring a Swiss Army knife with a corkscrew - you never know....

clinker

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, California

May 24, 2016 - 06:42pm PT

Reduction surgery may be the answer.

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

May 24, 2016 - 06:57pm PT

I went on a 4 day winter solo of Rainier with my Millet, although it did have the clip-on
side pockets.

Mark Force

Trad climber

Ashland, Oregon

May 24, 2016 - 07:29pm PT

^^^^Damn, that's bad!

NutAgain!

Trad climber

South Pasadena, CA

May 24, 2016 - 07:32pm PT

I enjoy backpacking now that unplanned bivies from climbing have redefined what is necessary to bring. It makes backpacking approaches to climbs not seem like such an ordeal.