How long till Dawn Wall gets a second?

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 82 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 14, 2015 - 11:54pm PT
Was that a typo?^^^^^^^^^

Or maybe a type-e? :0)
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 15, 2015 - 12:29am PT
I suspect this will be more like Nose speed record attempts. Multiple goes by the same party attempting to 'clean up' their time and get all aspects of the ascent and logistics as optimized as possible.

Tommy and Kevin have essentially done that in the course of the epic prelude to this accomplishment. Now that they fully understand all the pitches, the climb as a whole, and the necessary logistics I would think they could at some point come back and shave a considerable amount of time off the whole affair. Particularly so if they don't have to worry about making a film of the whole thing or deal with all the media hoopla.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Jan 15, 2015 - 04:58am PT
Weather and skin are two big factors. Didn't Steve Schneider almost get frozen in Jan. on El Cap a few years ago?
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jan 15, 2015 - 05:37am PT
the huber brothers are up for it.
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Jan 15, 2015 - 07:33am PT
I am already projecting, give me a couple weeks!
WBraun

climber
Jan 15, 2015 - 08:14am PT
No one will be able to do the second ascent.

It's too hard.

Yer all n00bs.

Tommy continued "That is the reason so many 5.14+ or even 5.15 climbers get shut down on El Cap.
It takes years to learn the technical hand and footwork you need on el cap."

Plus it takes 7 years ......
WBraun

climber
Jan 15, 2015 - 08:24am PT
Another reason no will do it is Americans spend all their free time talking about it ......
qinghai

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jan 15, 2015 - 08:25am PT
Chris Sharma should get some love. "I had the opportunity to spend a few days with them on it last year and can personally attest to how overwhelmingly hard and long that route is." http://websta.me/n/chris_sharma?lang=en I vote for Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra La Dura Dura style three years from now. I'd imagine any 5.15c climber out there with a comfy portaledge and some (lots of) time could knock off the Dawn Wall.
coolrockclimberguy69

climber
Jan 15, 2015 - 08:36am PT
It just seems silly to me, sorry if I offended.

Because we're speculating about ROCKCLIMBING in the future? You know, actually discussing rock climbing on a rock climbing forum?

You're the one that sounds offended. Rambling on about the Dawn Wall is a lot more relevent and interesting than, say, this useless thread...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2039639/Combine-Current-Thread-Titles-to-Make-Your-Own-Thread-Title

smfh
WBraun

climber
Jan 15, 2015 - 08:40am PT
discussing rock climbing on a rock climbing forum

It's not a rock climbing forum.

It's "Climber's Forum"
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
Jan 15, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
So who is the doofus that decided this is grade VII?
I'm still scratchin' my head on that one.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Jan 15, 2015 - 02:07pm PT

Jan 15, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
They haven't emailed you Werner? You must be a very good boy. Site managers say it's a forum for climbers to discuss.... ROCK CLIMBING!

Now, if that's really the case, we can all make our own decision.


You and WBraun might both be off the mark.
There is pretty good evidence it's a forum about comparing juicers.
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
Jan 15, 2015 - 02:08pm PT
You'll see harder routes like an all free Shield first. Would you spend 6 years to be a second ascent when you could do a newer/harder line?
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Jan 15, 2015 - 02:51pm PT
This all sounds like post dramatic stress syndrome.....
Blah blah blah.....

Drama, the wheel of life.
bergbryce

climber
East Bay, CA
Jan 15, 2015 - 03:03pm PT
Does anyone else think that this climb's sheer difficulty relegates it to museum status almost immediately and somewhat unfortunately?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 15, 2015 - 03:22pm PT
I sure don't think that.

However...

It will be repeated. It will take the party less time.

This is the historical pattern of El Capitan routes.

Why should the DW be seen in any different light?

At one time, the Nose was IT.

Now...it's a training climb, a "vertical racetrack."

Difficulty seems to whet certain folks' appetites for adventure more than most of the crowd.

Uncertainty is something we ALL deal with on climbs because of the fickle finger of fate.

Good luck, then, to whoever has the nerve, the time, the support, and above all the confidence to try to bag the second free ascent.

Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
Jan 15, 2015 - 03:37pm PT
the huber brothers are up for it

That's what I was thinking. Those guys ruled just a couple years ago. Kommen Sie vorbei und zeigen uns wie es geht.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 15, 2015 - 03:38pm PT
The Nose has 1 5.14a pitch? With majority of pitches on route fairly moderate. Compared to Dawn Wall it is a joke. Dude, some of the strongest climbers in the world project the Nose and still there were 4 people who have freed it. Dawn Wall has 7 5.14 pitches with two of them 5.14+ (likely the hardest imaginable granite climbing that could only be done under perfect conditions with the style and moves DIALED). I don't know why anyone with enough skill would want to put in years of work into projecting a second ascent. Why not go project some other possible FFA? It is possible, but in my opinion highly unlikely that it will happen any time soon.
It is a good subject to bullshit about on this forum though...
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Jan 15, 2015 - 03:56pm PT
20+ years. Although now that he figured out all the moves and the fact you have to climb in fall/winter at night, the next prodigy who really puts time in could maybe do it in less than 3 years... once that person comes along. Climbing vertical 5.14+ is just such a drastically different skill than overhanging limestone. Just ask Sharma and a few 5.15 climbers who have tried hard El Cap routes.

Just came across this trip report I wrote 5 years ago. At the time he wasn't even sure it would go and thought it would be maybe be a 10 year project. Gives some perspective to just how much effort it took. http://www.supertopo.com/tr/working-of-the-first-free-ascent-of-Mescalito/t140n.html
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jan 15, 2015 - 03:59pm PT
Placing my bet date for Second Ascent. 3 years. February ascent over 8 days, supported but capsule style with no fixed lines to the ground.

17 years for in-a-push 36-48hr ascent.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 82 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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