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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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At 55, I am hoping that my body still works at 60 since that is when I get to retire and do a few more objectives. I was never a first class climber. I still do objectives that are serious for me:
At 50, led a group of 30 - 40 year old men up Rainier. Enjoyed my 50th birthday in a t-shirt on the summit of Rainier
Attempted Denali at 53.
Did The Red Dihedral on the Incredible Hulk at 55 all in a day.
I have a longer climb with a shorter approach planned this summer.
Been hitting the gym the last three winters, and it has turned back the clock a few years.
Need to plan some rest days each month. But punching out 5,000 vertical feet, running 26, climbing 20 pitches - all still very reasonable.
I haven't been able to touch my toes since I was 25, but I am hoping to get closer than I have in several decades with this new program.......
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Guck
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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Looking at old geezers can be quite inspiring. At 65, I look up to Carlos Soria Fontán for motivation. Donini is quite a bit younger and probably also looks up to him. Check his rap sheet at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carlos_Soria_Font%C3%A1n
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 28, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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I haven't been able to touch my toes since I was 25, but I am hoping to get closer than I have in several decades with this new program.......
This could be more difficult for those that have long legs and short torsos. When I was young I wondered why I had such a hard time with it - I have a 35" inseam and am 6' tall.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 28, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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Nearly everything I did when in my teens and 20s albeit slower, less intense and fewer miles. What bothers me the most is declining flexibility. The popularity of yoga helps.
There were some things, like mountain biking that wasn't around when I was much younger. I love it but will never get as proficient if I had started in my 20s. Marathons just aren't fun anymore but half s are.
Injuries occur more easily and healing much longer, with always a little "kink or hitch" remaining.
The popularity of strength training helps immensely. It wasn't something for "girls" back in my 20s.
Anyway, most things are still working...just more TLC and preventative care needed. Like a beloved old car.
Susan
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Feb 28, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
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Yo Alois, great advice from the roots of our passions...where in the old country? Sounds like you and I may have crossed paths or even shared a rope seasons ago? I climbed there at your local crag through the mid to late sixties back when Suicide was seldom visited and JT was a practice area for the real thing!!! Too funny how things change, I could easily spend the rest of my days on crags as fine as Suicide and JT. Tahquitz is close to my heart, it haunts me with fond memories of great friendships and countless adventures. Hope to return soon.
A hardy Berg Heil to all,
Charlie D.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Feb 28, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
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I think it is all about passion. To Dream...to believe.....to try!!
El Cap solo this summer at age 60. Summit or not I win !!!!
Cracko
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 28, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
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Well, Gene's coming over Saturday and we'll discuss what's worth climbing as a pair of 60-somethings. I haven't actually roped for a climb since about '96, so this season's gonna be interesting.
The fact remains that I have lost approximately 70 pounds in the last twenty-four months. I looked at my picture from the bike race two years ago this weekend and decided Santa Claus had to go. The beard went first, and then the lard.
I haven't done much to prepare for climbing, as always, but I've tried to increase my capacity to walk and to endure the pain in the knees. The crux for me will be how strong my knees are, but I could be wrong. I've been coughing up bloody sputum this week as well, but that's part of the athsma, and will likely go away as it's done before.
There is so much more that we have to worry about if we get the tiniest bit out of shape as we age. At least I never had a very strong body, like John Long, for instance, and so I am not expecting very much at all, especially at first. And any goals will be necessarily modest, I presume. I'm not trepidatious; no, I'm just really curious to see how my mental preparation and the minimal stretching and isometrics I've been doing have helped.
The "Piss of Fear" will take much longer than it used to, I know that!
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
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I hear you, Mouse, and I have to agree.
For some of us the years have weighed more heavily than it has for others.
Still the point has always been to have fun, and I think we can all reach for that goal.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
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On the positive side....have all you dudes, few dudettes on this thread, looked around you and seen how much better shape you are in than some 20,30,40,50 year olds?
I just made a better time going up Mt. Monserate to qualify for snow camp than a 38 year old who has to do it again cause he was too slow.
So many talented people here. Age is a reflection in a pond and what it mirrors back is who you are today, what the years have crafted you into. It doesn't measure us, it embraces who we are today.
Thankful for today and what it holds. lynne
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Feb 28, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
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At 60 go for it. Mere youth!
;>)
depends where you placed in the genetic lottery.
At 62 there's some unfinished business that I'd better get done before the joints completely freeze up.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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One very positive move those of you who are young or middle-aged and are so afflicted can accomplish : Stop smoking.
Lately I have been made aware of friends and relatives who have had the habit for many years and who suffer from a variety of destructive conditions. I have been shocked by the quantity of ailments I see. These are mostly people younger than me (I am 76) and to see them having blocked arteries, open-heart surgery, blood clots, lung-prostate-bone cancer, COPD, poor circulation, withered skin, hearing lose, vision problems and more, including the appearance of being ten years older than their chronological age is tragic.
I know there are rebuttals and excuses and counter-examples pertinent to my comments, but please give what I say some thought. Keep breathing and keep climbing.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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May of 2016 will be the 40th anniversary of Max's and my first El Cap route together, The Nose. I'll be 60 and he'll be 58.
We're already planning to climb it in a day that year.
Cracko, I am so rooting for you!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I'm heading for seventy. I've been climbing for 56 years fer chrissakes. Like Ron, I've lived through every modern revolution in the sport, having started ten years before him on my journey through history.
I think I remember being sixty, but not sure. My golden years have a way of blending together; must be the glare of all those ingots. I'm coming off nearly a year lay-off from an acl repair operation. I don't think either 5.12 or NIAD is in my future at this point, but I guess I could be pleasantly surprised. I have lots of interests, climbing is certainly one of them, but there are other passions which have also endured for 56 years.
I enjoy climbing, do it regularly, am not yet an embarrassment to my generation, and expect to continue as long as it is fun. After that, if still alive, I plan to stop.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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What a great thread! A lot of us 60+ year olds refusing to throw in the towel and following Neils mantra " Better to burn out than to rust"
Age is just a state of mind.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I second John's post about smoking - really bad news having seen someone die from COPD close up. Definitely one of the uglier ways to go and once that cascade starts you're screwed. Ugh.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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I turned 60 three months ago. Looking forward to my 16th El Cap ascent this year, my eighth in a push, and my seventh in under a day. Half Dome and a route in the Black are on my list as well.
More significant than age is the fact that it will be 60 years ago in August that I contracted paralytic Polio. Over 40 years now dealing with Post Polio Syndrome. Lots of other serious injuries have made things more interesting still.
Hope to follow the example of Jim Donini and still be making my way to the top of the Captain in another decade. Though all I am doing is jugging, each ascent is still a memorable and powerful experience!
It is all a matter of how badly you want it.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Just turned 60 this year...I'll tell you one thing - no matter how little I climb or what grade I climb, it's my passion for climbing, and my desire to be fit enough to do approaches and descents that gives me the motivation to stay as fit as I can. When it's yet another salad for dinner, or protein shake for lunch, when it's yet another push to get to the gym and do that workout when I'd rather sit and read a book, it's the dream of climbing days ahead that keeps me from becoming a plump little old coach potato.
+1, at least.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Todays generation of climbers seem to care little about where they fit into the progression. They aren't even good stewards of the resource.
This is not true. Not all of us youngsters can't appreciate the past, myself i find it inspiring, and can spend hours talking about BITD with those if your generation I have connections with. As for the environment, I love being in nature and try my best to leave no trace whenever possible.
All that being said, I just aged to near death in less than 30 seconds. I hope to regain my former self, but am not fooling myself that it will be easy or possible.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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I'm turning 67 this July.
I am certain that if I didn't have severe back problems, I would be a real powerhouse in the mountains. I'm stronger now than when I was 20, but certainly not as limber.
I viewed new x-rays yesterday of my back, which were entertaining in not a good way. My lower back is starting to fuse together, since there is no disk space left, with severe displacement in several spots.
Last summer, I hiked the Grand via the Upper Exum, car to car in 10 hours, and did the NEB of HCR in Yosemite, in pretty good time. I've been working out all winter, and hope to have another good year, once all this damn snow leaves.
Still can't keep up with good old Donini, but then again he is an anomaly!
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