At 60?

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RDB

Social climber

Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 28, 2013 - 02:56pm PT

This is for those still getting it done.

It is obvious that we are no longer 25. Thank goodness.

But a serious question none the less.

I had a client that I took up Rainier for his 50th. At the time I was thinking, "geesus man, get with it, you are OLD!" He seemed old for 50!

At 50 I didn't think much about soloing Rainier on a good day. But I don't think of myself as "old".

There is so much more that goes into climbing. Staying fit, sure. The past experience even more so. And how much you get out.

If I was 30 again and some "old farts" at 60 said they were going to do the Cassin in 24 hrs or El Cap in a day I might shake my head but I would hold my tongue.

So much more to life and so little time. What is your thought..at 60 or close to it, on climbing serious onjectives?

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Feb 28, 2013 - 03:08pm PT

As my countdown to 62, and the consequent eligibility for a Golden Turkey stands at 108 days, I think about that quite a bit. My reality is that while I have continued to climb, I have also continued in my life's work in the law and economics, which limits what I can do in the mountains.

I will say this: While I'm neither as strong nor as flexible as I was 40 years ago, I'm not near my deathbed, either. I'm struggling right now to get back in shape after a year's layoff following Achilles tendon surgery, but I'm progressing and expect to get in sufficient shape to be able to climb better than a 20-year-old dilettante at climbing. Still, I will never be able to compete with a dedicated 20-year-old climber.

So what? At one time, I was essentially competing against the world bouldering. Now, I've chosen to compete against the world elsewhere, but that's secondary. I remain my main competition. I try to do better than I think I can, and doing so still gives me immense satisfaction. Besides, I happen to find pleasure in the physical act of moving over vertical rock.

Now Lowe and Donini on the other hand. . .

Good thread, and I look forward to others' responses.

John

RDB

Social climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2013 - 03:20pm PT

I'll get this in early. But I really do what to hear other's thoughts.

When I can actually dedicate some time to it I feel like I can get back to what I find an acceptable standard for my own objectives. I don't think it is an age thing or a fitness thing as much as it is a "time" thing.

Given enough time I would know exactly what I am capable of physically. But without the time to train and climb it is hard to match my own objectives with my fitness level and most importantly my comfort level mentally.

Curious to the thoughts of guys who have been out there climbing almost full time. I remember Jack Roberts telling me he was dissappointed how slow he was in the mtns these days. It was a great line right up until you tried to follow along or climb with him. And this from a guy who's feet were trashed!

McHale's Navy

Trad climber

Panorama City, California & living in Seattle

Feb 28, 2013 - 03:20pm PT

Although we are no longer made of rubber past 60, I think what goes through our heads is what really makes us what we are. I too had a serious Achilles injury just before my 60th birthday last year, and at first I let it bum me out as an age thing, and then I got back into healing mode and came back really strong, like it never happened. The advantage of being a lifelong athlete is being able to compare what's going on now with what happened 40 years ago, and seeing that it's not all that different. Personally, my biggest challenge is still, after all these years, dealing with anxiety and fear of climbing! If it were not for my anxiety and fear I could go out and do a much better job of snuffing myself!

Climbing for me has always been about the beauty of the environment, not so much challenging it - so that makes it safer for me.

But without the time to train and climb it is hard to match my own objectives with my fitness level and most importantly my comfort level mentally.

Roger Bannister, when he trained to break the 4 minute mile, had no time. He learned to do what he needed to do in a very specific low-time way.....and he did not OVER-TRAIN. Not having time can maybe make it easier to train more effectively. What we really want is just more time to be out - that's the best training of course.

Use it or lose it is a good motto. A person can lose it at any age.

phylp

Trad climber

Millbrae, CA

Feb 28, 2013 - 03:22pm PT

Just turned 60 this year...I'll tell you one thing - no matter how little I climb or what grade I climb, it's my passion for climbing, and my desire to be fit enough to do approaches and descents that gives me the motivation to stay as fit as I can. When it's yet another salad for dinner, or protein shake for lunch, when it's yet another push to get to the gym and do that workout when I'd rather sit and read a book, it's the dream of climbing days ahead that keeps me from becoming a plump little old coach potato.
Phyl

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Taos, NM

Feb 28, 2013 - 03:36pm PT

I turn 60 in June...had open heart surgery just under two years ago. Back to climbing 5.12, hiking with my wife and Lab everyday, plus traveling a lot to Mexico, Central and South America.

My big goals this year is tick off a few 5.13's, Go birding in Colombia, and spend more time with our grandchild.

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Feb 28, 2013 - 03:40pm PT

Am sixty and am still doing reasonable ground-up, dogless, multi-pitch FAs, though I intend for my current project to be the last R/X job I put up or attempt.

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Feb 28, 2013 - 03:45pm PT

The motor is still gud but the chassis and running gear are thrashed and I don't trust mechanics.

Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber

moving thru

Feb 28, 2013 - 04:30pm PT

Depends on what your definition of serious objectives is. I'm still learning and growing, doing things I've never done before or haven't done in 30 some years. Hope to pull off a backpack snow camp in two weeks. Never done that before. But I doubt I'll do El Cap in a day.:S Smiles, lynne

Edit: McHale's Navy, sure there are some age related physical stuff that happens to us as we age, but you can pull an Achilles as well at 30 as you can at 60. I try real hard not to attribute everything to aging. My kids forget things just as much as I do and the 20's group where I am employed are always working out too hard and then suffer a variety of aches, pains and knots.

Locker hit it.....listen to your body. It speaks wisdom in perfectly understandable English. :S

mechrist

Gym climber

South of Heaven

Feb 28, 2013 - 04:41pm PT

THE man at 75

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Charlie D.

Trad climber

Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra

Feb 28, 2013 - 04:52pm PT

Heading toward 62 in July and still have much I'd like to accomplish in the mountains. I have no regrets from the many distractions that kept me from being as active as I'd often dream. A professional career, a family, a business etc. gave me much to be thankful for and provided that much more of a richer experience chasing mountain dreams while continually trying to balance those duties and responsibilities with time in the mountains.

Now as I'm getting closer to the end of an active career and business having secured a future I can impliment some of those dreams. I've always wanted to go on a shoulder and summer season road trip for climbing and chase storms across the west for powder all winter long. I've bought the van, I've got the will, I've got an understanding wife, I've got resources, I just hope to hell my body holds up!!! We're nothing but soft tissue in a world of hard and sharp objects doing what we do, yikes!!!

My mantra is not to get injuried yet I managed to ski this winter in flat light under storm conditions off the top of a frozen water fall flat onto lake ice 12 feet below. My dynafit bindings shattered as I pitched forward and landed on both knees....ouch!!! God are my knees ever sore, I'm just thankful for those brown M&M's and other medications:

Keep moving up, keep charging down, ski/climb hard and take chances!!! It was always good then and it's great now Berg Heil!!!

Charlie D.

G_Gnome

Trad climber

Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.

Feb 28, 2013 - 05:01pm PT

A couple years ago, at 59, I got very motivated to climb the Bachar Yerian. I lost 10 pounds and climbed lots of 5.11 and 5.12 and had one of the best summers of climbing ever and finished off with the B & Y. Since them I have had a serious of injuries that have slowed me down a little but I am still climbing hard. I think attitude and climbing with someone that pushes you some are the keys to keep climbing as hard as you can. At the same time I love to go climb fun and easy routes all the time. I love being outside, with friends, and moving over stone. I still live for the sharp end too and this is maybe the most surprising thing to me.

micronut

Trad climber

Feb 28, 2013 - 05:10pm PT

Hey Gnome...is this you? This is such a well done vid!

https://vimeo.com/14878084

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Feb 28, 2013 - 05:33pm PT

The old Groucho line about how if I'd known I was going to live this long I'd have taken better care of myself comes to mind.

I'm in a transition.
My peak climbing years are certainly behind me, but my best marksmanship years could still be ahead of me.

But part of that climbing retrospective is a function of context.

I started climbing in '68 with wool knickers, Kronhaufers and pitons for pro.
I saw a good three or more revolutions occur in the sport over the next few decades. A hundred years from now if there are any climbing historians then they will have wanted to have been my contemporary.

I was simply in the right place at the right time.

Todays generation of climbers seem to care little about where they fit into the progression. They aren't even good stewards of the resource.

It would be a whole lot easier to be jazzed about doing more climbing were that not the case, but I'm not complaining. I got more than my share.

rottingjohnny

Sport climber

mammoth lakes ca

Feb 28, 2013 - 05:36pm PT

Age is like an obstacle on a single-track trail...if you focus on the obstacles , you'll hit them....If you focus on age , you'll grow old....

Hard Rock

Trad climber

Montana

Feb 28, 2013 - 06:16pm PT

Made it to the sixties. Still climb. Still putting up routes and making bike trails. Still doing fire research. My main partner has a couple of years on me and it still doing upper 5.12 and working on the next grade. A couple of winters ago 4 of us (plus a young kid about 53) did our (35 year aniversary - from college) ski trip for 2 weeks into the Wind River Range. Took of a extra day to make it into Island Lake but we made it. It's all good. Always was. We never take any freeze dried food in but I hear it lighter. We just been doing it to long to switch but I do have some of those new cam things.

Alois

Trad climber

Idyllwild, California

Feb 28, 2013 - 06:38pm PT

I'm 64, have been at it since 16. Long time ago, an old climber back in the old country said to a bunch of us at a campfire, don't stop, don't relax, keep going, keep climbing, hiking, skiing and enjoying the outdoors. Do not let anything stop you, ever...I think that is a good way to go about climbing and life in general...