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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
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When Ed and I did the third ascent we brought a flask. Canadian whisky of some sort. Experience is a great teacher. I have those photos as well...
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
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How did the third compare with the first? Conditions wise/ fear wise etc?
Peace,
Bruce
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
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hot damn!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
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Great historical photos Mark! Sweet walk down memory lane....you guys were the bomb!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
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hey there, say, mark..
Kevin and my attempts to climb the route followed a long January warm spell. We were having fun climbing in the lower canyon when a series of late winter storms arrived and the route began to reform. We attempted to hit it on a cold snap following one of these storms and our persistence eventually paid off--just barely.
wheww... you know, it is those 'persistences' that nudge at us, that sometimes, yeild the BIGGEST blessings! (well, caustiosly, taken, at times, too--seems like you both had some good 'gut feelings' as to the unexpected parts)...
i've been hoping to hear some of these great adventures for a long LONG time!!
thanks so very much for posting all this...
* i can just picture you sloshing back, in the 'wet sponges' :O
and doing the 'chapman-bear-thing' about seeking out FOOD...
;)
thanks again...
glad you got the pics up... my computer always stalls on the second window, of the uploads, too, but due to dial up, i reckon...
hope to hear so much more, when you get the chance...
this is great stuff!
edit:
oh my, i'm not as up to date as you all are, on the new ice-climbing stuff, clothes and boots, etc...
but wow, they really had a chore of it, back then, :O
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 10, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
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Holy Frezeezer, two bivis. I don't think the ice would last that long these days.
Great shots, an ode to getting it done with "modern" gear.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 10, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
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hey there, say, dingus...
as to this quote:
Blows me away, your gear, chappy. Dang dude.
man oh man, you sure said it, :)) :O
mark.. wow!!!! can't wait to hear more...
say, if you ever collect your notes, i can make it all into a book for you
... you will have to check it over, of course, but i can set up the
format for you...
would be a neat collection for you to make them into!
hee hee, no charge from the ol' sis, of course, >:D<
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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Awesome. The tied of icicle was a nice touch. Yikes.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
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"Silver Strand FA"
You did that one too? Damn. Taking all the good lines!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
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Climbing with piolets! Awesome!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
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Awesome!
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
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Those look like Chouinard tools? wasn't that '78? Those were already out of date by then. The Canadians had Chacals by then, and in Colorado Roosterheads seemed to be de jour. In those years I had a Mjollnar and a 60 cm Verglass (Forrest simple ice axe with alu handle) Always smashing my knuckles with the Mjollnar, and blowing out dinner plates with the axe. I hated ice climbing. No wonder. ha
maybe your ascent was earlier?
in any case ballsy.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
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Our ascent was in Feb of 1975. We had one set of tools between us which we had to lower to the second after each pitch. One tool was a 55 cm Chounard axe and the other was this very long REI axe that was basically for glacier walking as far as I remember. Niether had serated picks which we found after Sentinal Falls was a big bummer so we used a hand file to carve some notches in them. The Chounard axe was real hard steel and it was a real effort to get a few notches in it. The REI was much softer steel and we managed to notch it pretty well. When Ed and I did it (I thought it was in 78 but the slides are dated 79) I had been climbing ice for four years (I used to do upper Sentinal every year)so I was much more experienced. On the 79 ascent the conditions were perfect and we had better tools as well. A very memorable ascent but nothing compares to when Kev and I first did it.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
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TFPU! that was ballsy....and then to share tools too?
True Hardmen!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
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Chappy - TFPU! What was your cumulative ice climbing experience before this ascent?
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Double D
climber
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
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So cool. I still remember seeing those slides shortly after you guys did it. True pioneers.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
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Great to see the pics and hear the story. Thanks for posting
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
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Schweet! ...and the right time of year to put in some cold ass ice climbing shots. Nice!!!!
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 10, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
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Long axe action, those old curved picks are sketchy when combined with horizontal front points and leather norwegian welt boots, WI4-5 for sure, WI3-4 in modern gear . . . thanks Chappy for sharing this crucial historic photo montage. Looking forward to the rest of your archive!
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