Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
|
I helped Roper a fair amount on the "Green Guide." And since the Starr King climbs were done in 1970, they probably didn't have a second ascent before it came out. He must have gotten those descriptions from me, tho I doubt that I have the original notes anymore.
My memory has faded on just what bolts I might have placed. I assume what I placed is in the descriptions in the "Green Guide."
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
|
Thank you, CC. The photos of Tim climbing are so magic for me. I never climbed much with the man, but he was serious about his climbs but not about life's problems. A full-time cool person.
It's nice for me to see the Dawg's portrait, as I never had the pleasure of meeting him. You're a handsome dog, Ken. Too bad you didn't get a summit shot of the two of you studs. It would have been gold.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
|
I remember the brutal approach to Mt. Starr King.
It was only few hundred feet as I stepped out of the helicopter near the base to start the climb ......
|
|
Banquo
climber
Amerricka
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2012 - 09:05am PT
|
Werner - why not land on top? What were you thinking?
BooDawg - As Clint says, the hanger was a SS SMC that must have been added later.
|
|
pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
|
Good work on the bolt replacement project.
100% winners
you guys are a huge force!
|
|
BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2012 - 03:00pm PT
|
If there's a question about what bolts I may have placed, if it is NOT a 1/4" Rawl Drive with a nut, holding on a Leeper hanger, I would not have placed it. If it is that, it's likely I did place it, but it's still possible someone else did.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2012 - 01:43am PT
|
Sick pics Banquo and Clint. Is one of those lines on Baez a Warbler route?
The wide dihedral in same photo (SW skyline) looks inviting too.
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2012 - 03:06am PT
|
I might be interested in attempting a new route in a few weeks. Maybe taking a lap or two on existing routes as well.
Not this weekend though.
|
|
Gary
Social climber
Monza by the streetlight
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2012 - 09:02am PT
|
Nice work. That's some great rock back there.
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
|
Clint, you show the grades for the climbs on Baez, how about the grades for Mt. Starr King?
As always, ++ Work!
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
|
Kevin,
> The wall to the right has some potential. Anyone know of routes over there?
Here's a slightly more direct link to AlDude's unfinished route right of Walkabout:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=163599&msg=164304#msg164304
"West of Starr King? Cashner and I got 4 pitches up central line in 1990. After two horrendous 1/4 inch horror shows attempt ended on big loose flake in near darkness with much 5.11 to go. I think Chapman and Worral later established an 8 pitch 5.10 to the left. Could be mistaken though."
[I believe we later determined that Walkabout was done after 1990]
There is one more climb on Dome Baez not shown on my overlay photo, further around to the right in an obvious straight-up corner system, a 3 pitch 5.9.
Kelly,
Here are ratings and pitch counts for the climbs on the Starr King overlay photo:
 NW Face 5.9, 7p (we have been unable to locate this so far, need to look more!)
Starry Starry Knight 5.10a, 9p in right facing shallow dihedrals - could use some more research on this also - climb it and send me a topo!
West Face 5.8, 8p (maybe 5.9 directly up the bolts)
West Flake 5.7
Flake Exit 5.8 (exit right early past the bolt Roger replaced)
Illilouette Face 5.5 R, 9?p, aka Tom Rogers SW Face route
Nuts and Bolts 5.8, 8p
Joe,
Wish I could join you for exploring up there this weekend, but I already have plans....
Chad,
If you could use topos for the leftmost 3 routes on Dome Baez, I have them.
I had hoped to locate the AlDude route there on a previous trip, but ran out of time after checking out (existing) routes on a dome further to the east.
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
|
There is one more climb on Dome Baez not shown on my overlay photo, further around to the right in an obvious straight-up corner system, a 3 pitch 5.9.
Clint,
Is this the 5.9 Thomas Addison (teamwhipper) mentions?
We called that dome Dome Baez in 1984, when we established Diamonds and Rust (left side of dome as pictured; 10c chickenheads) and some 5.9 all gear line reminiscent of The Surprise on the right side.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2012 - 06:26am PT
|
Kevin,
Thanks for the further story on Walkabout - sounds like one of those great onsight adventures that makes for great memories!
Here is an overlay guess - the photo shows many of the features, like the crack system / finger crack and I guessed the belays and bolt locations from your description.
Got any edits for this overlay? I'll like to make something more accurate than my guess! :-)
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2012 - 06:29am PT
|
Nate,
Here's a photo of Dome Baez - East Face which shows Tom's 5.9 corner system.
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2012 - 02:14am PT
|
Was in there about three weeks ago and did a variation of West Face route. After the second pitch I headed out right to a small left facing corner. There was an old piton here that I removed BY HAND. It had CMI stamped on it if any one has any idea. Left a #4 DMM Peanut in it's place. Gear karma you know. Any way the route from there heads straight up but never rejoins West Face. 5.8+R would seems about right. Super fun dome and way closer of an approach than I thought. As far as water there is none up high. We camped right after the Illouite creek crossing on the left. Fron there it's about 45 minutes to the base. Looked at Walkabout on Dome Biaz as well. What a sweet looking line. I'd figured it had been done so thanks for the info.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2012 - 03:57am PT
|
Kevin,
Thanks for all the edits and additional details.
I updated the photos - should be fairly close now (although the offroute bolts might still be off).
You might have to refresh the browser to see the new versions.
[edited photos again 9/17 to move the higher off route bolt - thanks, Kevin]
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
|
Sweet pics. Stone porn of the highest order.
|
|
wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
|
|
Sep 18, 2012 - 12:19am PT
|
Nice! How did you get up?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!