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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 12, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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Clint, Dan, Bob, and I replaced the bolts on the "North Face Route", "Nuts and Bolts", and the "Tom Rogers Route" on Mt. Starr King this past weekend. Clint and I saw a good size Rattle Snake close up on the hike out Sunday.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
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You guys rock(literally)!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jun 12, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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You guys are awesome, Roger. Tireless efforts!
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Jun 12, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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edit for Roger- "North Face Route" above should say "West Face Route".
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 12, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 12, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
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Those fingernails are pretty long for a climber. :)
LOL!
Thanks, guys, for your excellent and ongoing work.
John
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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Jun 12, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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Thanks Clint and Roger! I have been wanting to get up there and climb that.
Steve
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jun 12, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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Hopefully we'll be seeing more trip reports from out there now. Somebody should get busy on that incredible mushroom boulder on the Mono Meadows approach too.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 12, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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Here are the current options for crossing Illouette Creek on the Mono Meadow approach.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
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Roger needs long fingernails - they help when he plucks out old bolts with his bare hands.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Jun 12, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
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We also managed to photograph the summit register entries from 1990 to present and climb some virgin rock.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jun 12, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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YESH! Thx guys! Such a great rock back there.
How were the bugs?
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Jun 12, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
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No bugs, cool nights and warm days. Outside of sunburn, perfect conditions.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Jun 12, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Badass, Thanks. By the way these are terrible routes and not worth the hassle to get to. Don't bother and please warn all your friends...
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jun 12, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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Hey Clint, you got a picture of Star King with an overlay of all it's routes drawn in?
Thinking about heading up to that particular rock sometime this year myself.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 15, 2012 - 06:22am PT
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Sure, Chad - here is an updated overlay of Starr King West Face, and a prelim overlay for Dome Baez:
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 15, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
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Here are approach details for the West Face climbs, from Mono Meadow.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Jun 15, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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You are totally correct, Wade. The place is a hellhole, the routes generally degrade the climbers, the approach is wading through icy creek water, the possibilities of new routes are rare, and the climbs are too low angle to interest anyone who has been on the GPA. Fergeddit.
Oh, yeah, the views from there are all Half Dome, Half Dome, Half Dome.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Jun 15, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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So GREAT to re-visit those climbs and to see that the original bolts have weathered the years well. But it's also great to see them replaced. Thanks for doing that work, tho, like you guys say, it's really not worth going in there to climb...
Banquo: In your second picture, was that a Dolt Hanger that you removed? If so, perhaps you could send it to LilaBiene who is Dolt's daughter and who would appreciate it more than anyone that I know.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 15, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
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It was fun to finally locate Nuts and Bolts - I thought for sure it was where "West Flake" is; that turned out to be quite a bit easier.
Here's a link to Ken's photo trip report of the first ascent in 1972:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1292666&msg=1293125#msg1293125
Still looking for bolts on the NW Face....
That was an SMC stainless hanger on the West Face, added next to the first bolt by someone (vs. Dolt which is chrome moly).
Did you place those bolts on pitch 4 on the FA? Only the top one is mentioned in the Roper description, so I guess he didn't get the route description direct from you?
Here's one of those views of Half Dome, from the Mono Meadow trail, early evening on the hike out:
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