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SeanC
Trad climber
Redlands, CA
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Hey Mucci, when you're using the rope to build an anchor do you ever find yourself screwed because your end of the rope is now "stuck" in the anchor you built out of it?
I build anchors with the rope when trad climbing, but only when I'm 98% sure that my partner is going to lead the next pitch. It just seems to me like there is a higher probability of needing to escape the belay or something on a wall and building the anchor with the rope might complicate things.
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wee man
Trad climber
truckee ca
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pretty sure this guy is yanking your chain, i really enjoyed the sewn sling stitched splice kinda half involved in the main knot
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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SeanC-
Important to remember it's wall climbing, not speed climbing.
If I need to "escape" from my belay, I clip in my daisies, untie from the rope and handle the business. It takes 10 seconds.
I have switched leaders, climbed back to back pitches, and short fixed all the while having an anchor made completely with the lead line.
Pitches are not 200 feet on most routes, if there is a rope stretcher in the future.....Don't use the rope for the anchor.
Obviously, some belays require a cordelette, or big sling etc.. due to the distance of bolts/gear.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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mucci is the man.
he taught me a simple, clean
and effective anchor that takes little time
to set up.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Important to remember it's wall climbing, not speed climbing.
Sorry Mucci but this is the reason why most people take 7 days to climb routes that should take 3. When I speed climb I do things almost exactly like I do them when I am hauling loads. Why would you over complicate things just because you are spending a few days up there instead of pushing?
Christ, this thread could last a 1000 post with all the tech weenies around here.
- OR
hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha. It's true! These threads always come up, someone who says they are doing something 'simple' and then presents some crazy ass anchor scheme, or debates the use of Dyneema.
Do this:
-You arrive at the anchor, 3 fat bolts (most of the anchors on El Cap).
-Clip yourself via daisys into the bolts.
-Call 'Off Belay.' (Now your partner can stop jacking off at the lower anchor and get sh#t ready to go, because lets face it, his lazy ass probably hasnt done sh#t to be ready to send off the bags, this is fine, because you just gave them about 5 minutes of lead time before you are going to haul)
-clip a locker into each bolt.
-clip a double length sling as a sliding X to the left two lockers.
-clip a second locker onto the middle locker.
-clip a double length sling as a sliding X to the right locker and that extra locker on the middle bolt. (There is reason for not putting both slings straight to the middle locker, go f*#k around with it and you will find out why you don't want to do that).
Now you have two sliding X anchors, one for the jug line, one for the hauler. This keeps the follower and the haul line/haul bags nicely separated and organized, person to one side, bags to the other. This promotes digging in bags for snacky cakes.
If you don't like the sliding X, tie the sling into a masterpoint and clip a biner through part of the knot so you can actually untie it (without the use of a hammer).
You can now haul the bags off the lower anchor, leave them hanging in space and start short fixing. Or haul the bags to the anchor while your partner cleans, if you prefer the slow lead swap. It takes about 3 minutes to set up and is actually simple.
Yes. Yes. yes. There are other simple ways. Fix the lead line to the two bolts via bunny ears (that eliminates a sling and sliding X). This is prefered by some, I have been using it more and more. Fast and easy. Hell, I do that and then clip the hauler straight to a single (bomber) bolt and haul that sh#t off one bolt (if the bolt is good enough and the load is only a few days)!
I don't understand why people always want a complex-simple method instead of a truly simple method.
EDIT:
Also yes, there are times on routes where you are not getting an anchor with big fat shinny bolts. Maybe you have 2 crappy 1/4" and a 5/16" or one bolt and some gear, etc. In these cases you get creative, you build, you sling, you equalize, you back up, you use the rope if you don't have a long enough cordallette. You pull out all the stops, take your time and make it safe.
Here is a photo of a good time to get creative....
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Hoi knows his sh#t, I'd do a wall with him.
For that matter thought, I'd do a wall with Mucci also.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Mark - I ment no disrespect to Mucci. I hope to climb a wall with him this season in fact^^
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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If you don't like the sliding X, tie the sling into a masterpoint and clip a biner through part of the knot so you can actually untie it (without the use of a hammer).
well, that just became part of my anchor building process.
Thanks H
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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No, I wasn't thinking that.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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yall have to stand in line to if you want on team mucci.
he already promised to drag my show up something in may.
after that he's all yours.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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You only need to know two knots to go climbing:
A clove hitch and a figure eight. I don't count a prusik as a knot, but you better know that one as well.
Every route on the planet can be climbed with those two knots.
No kidding.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Interesting first post/troll.
Don't we need to have a few hundred posts on equalettes and cordalettes?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Haha! NO worries.
Hoi is right, do it the same no matter what style you are climbing. Consistency is key.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Howdy,
Leaving Boulder on Monday headed to Mescalito, we are planning on short fixing. Seems like the obvious anchor when short fixing is cordalette/ sliding x's etc. NON rope anchors? If you were using bunny ears or Marks 8/ butterfly/ butterfly, wouldn't the cleaner have to re tie a new anchor when he is done hauling?
Never short fixed before, just curious how you guys do it.
Prod.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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With my knot tying technique and big lockers at the anchor, I don't see how it would be too hard for the second to finish hauling, tie himself into the anchor, put the leader on belay and then untie the leaders anchor knots.
With Mucci's bunny ears, it would work the same way.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Got it Mark, so then you carry 6 big lockers. 3 for each belay?
Prod.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Yes, that's my "Anchor Kit".
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Quick advice looking at your picture. You want the haul setup higher. Russ is right, Trade route belays are bomber bolts so just haul off a biner clipped to the biner on the bolt around where you want the bag to come up.
Don't use wire-gates on the belay bolts, particularly upside down with stuff piled in them.
Too much equalization and the anchor becomes too long. Sucks if you're at a ledge. A cordalette tied between three bolts in more than enough and you can use the two power points for stuff as you like.
Don't recommend using the rope right on the belay bolts for anchoring. You add a bunch of stuff to those bolts and it can trap the rope. If you're partner falls and gets hurt, it could be hard to free the rope from the belay to bail with the haul bag trapping it in there.
Oh, and one more thing
Peace
Karl
Wall climbing is perfectly safe
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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if there are only three bolts at the anchor, you should probably add a couple more...
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