Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
acooney
Trad climber
UK
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - May 1, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
|
I'm getting into big wall climbing this summer, and everything I'm reading seems to suggest very complicated anchors. So I was wondering is there anything wrong with something like this?
To clarify how it works:
The purple sling is tied for 4 anchors, and then one anchor gets two loops if there are only three. It is equalised with an overhand that gives two short loops and two long ones.
The line to be jugged is tied off with a fig-8 to the closest anchor, and then alpine butterfly knotted into the two short loops on the overhand. This equalises it slightly to the side of the haul line.
The haul line goes through a self-jamming pulley (assume the one in the photo is) on the longer two loops, which is backed up by a quickdraw. This can then be tied off short on the free locker behind it.
The lead climber is secured by daisy chains, and a clove hitch to a locker can be used in the short loops if required.
Any advice for how to make this more efficient and/or simpler would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Alan
|
|
Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
|
|
Don't worry about it... all the anchors these days are giant bolts. Clip in any way you want and start hauling. Easy way to keep it straight: fixed line anchored to bolt closest to where the pitch ends, set up your haul in the middle, you clip off on the side away from the fixed line. Have fun and YGD!!!!!!!
Reading all that junk will just make you nuts! (and slow)
|
|
John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
|
|
Go with the hudon method. Its simple, safe and you don't need any gear.
|
|
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
What Russ and Sonic and John Mac said...
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
relativity governs your setup.
you and your bags weigh say 300 lbs,
where the mountain weighs the sum of your dreams.
so if you go flying nilly willy,
and the mountain maintains a patient stance in observance of your antics,
your anchor will make sense of the max 1000 lb dynamic load, and you'll live to nail another seem.
now if you're chillin and the mountain decides to fly away,
your anchor will realize the mass of mountains,
which it will then transfer to you, and of course
the mass of your dreams will overwhelm
the mass of your being
and that achor will fail and you two, or three or infinity
will separate. you, the mountain. your physical self.
and your spiritual self.
at that point,
we'll all call you jesus and
celebrate eternity's maturation.
probably selabrate with inebriate whine.
if you can spare some on your magic mind.
|
|
PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
|
|
I thought wall anchors were supposed to be 5 point?
|
|
Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
|
|
When I finish leading a stressful aid pitch my mind is a bit frazzled, so, I like to keep it simple. I was always a big fan of the old in-line clove hitches. Haul off the opposite end of the anchor from the jug line. Just make sure those bolts are bomber.
|
|
Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
|
|
I'll add:
Did you ever see the documentary on the making of Apocalypse Now, called Hearts of Darkness: A Filmmaker's Apocalypse?
Well anyway... in there an exasperated Francis Ford Coppola (FFC) is explaining to Dennis Hopper on just why he (Hopper) has to learn his lines.... Hopper is at a minimum on acid or something but keeps asking why he has to learn the lines if during the scene he is going to make up his lines anyway... FFC says to him, paraphrased, "you must first learn your lines so then you can forget the lines".
Big wall anchors are sorta like this.... know how to do them, but then when it gets down to it, just do them. Hell, everything is kinda like that....
|
|
Pcutler
climber
Iowa
|
|
I thought wall anchors were supposed to be 5 point?
Ten points at least...You never know when you might encounter exploding bolts
|
|
SeanC
Trad climber
Redlands, CA
|
|
This might be a stupid question...
I love how Mark's big wall PDFs show elegant anchors tied with the rope. This makes sense to me for soloing, where you're not tied in to the end of the rope, or when you're swapping leads with a partner, or short fixing. But say you are leading a few C3 pitches in blocks, how/why would you completely eliminate a cordelette or something similar (without swapping ends)?
Maybe that is a situation where something like a cordelette is a better idea, I was just thrown off when Mark said in his Anchor Tips ...I decided to never use a cordelette again in setting up an achor
|
|
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
I've never led in blocks so I have no experience with it. My Anchors .pdf doesn't really apply in that case.
|
|
A5scott
Trad climber
Chicago
|
|
Hey,
You may want to use something with a bit more stretch in your anchor... Maybe it's me, but I don't really like dyneema as cordelette. a factor 1 fall on dyneema can be dangerous. Maybe you used all hotwires just for the pic, but i would suggest some lockers, like DMM quicklock... they won't get stuck locked under load... or whatever lockers you like. Plus the leftmost hotwire, with the fig 8 and daisy in it seems to have too much in it and may outwardly load the wire gate. Also you may want to move your haul system up higher if possible.
read some more... John long's books, mark hudon, and russ have some great advise. go into each anchor with the ability to adapt what you know to a given setup, as not all anchors will be the same.
scott
|
|
Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
|
|
The offset loops of the powerpoint are pretty cool.
I don't understand why the upper hot-wire carabiner is up and out instead of down and out.
It seems a little awkward to incorporate the bar tack where the webbing is joined into the powerpoint knot. Whether it's a cordelette, or a sewn sling, I prefer to either have the knot or bartack on the highest piece, so it is out of the way when you are tying the power point knot.
|
|
michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
|
|
jesus christ
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
You forgot the h.
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
heroin has no place in a gib wall ancher.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
I use the rope for about 90% of my anchors. Bomber, and teaches you knots you would never use.
Your ropework will get way better, thus improving your worth as a wall partner.
I have no idea why people think dyneema belongs anywhere near a wall anchor.
Your anchor is very complicated, and there is no way to adjust the hauling system or direction of pull.
Think simple and remember, on most all routes you will be on there are FAT bolts. You will not have to use your gear placing prowess or much thought for that matter when you hit the anchor.
Just keep it simple.
|
|
OR
Trad climber
|
|
Big ass power point and listen to Russ. Keep the belay clean and organized. Just K.I.S.S....keep it simple stupid. Christ, this thread could last a 1000 post with all the tech weenies around here.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!