Bolt chopping at Sugarloaf

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kev

climber

A pile of dirt.

Apr 23, 2012 - 10:34pm PT

This guy will get shot if he is caught.

Wow - nice one there...

I'm making some more popcorn now and gonna grab a beer!

rick sumner

Trad climber

reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska

Apr 24, 2012 - 12:13am PT

It was 11 pm or thereabouts, i had been reading the book, off and on, all day. It was an interesting read, really interesting and i was determined to complete the passage before me but the eyelids became unbearably heavy. The book fell from my left hand but before the noise of it hitting the floor could register i fell into a deep sleep.At some point i became aware of a blinding white light, so bright i had to avert my eyes lest the corneas fry.As i turned i took the opportunity to survey my surroundings-to the east were charred stumps extending far up the hill,below was a telephone relay building, to the west was the Kyburz school.Why this is strange, i thought,i'm at Sugarloaf, but why? I was trying to make sense of it all when i heard voices behind me in the direction of the approach trail, one of the voices sounded familiar although i was unable to attach an identity to it.Stranger still, when i turned uphill, to identify the familiar voice, the blinding light subdued and coalesced into the impossible- a 400 foot tall maiden in bright white flowing dress, a vision of beauty normally unavailable for mortal eyes to behold. At about 50 yards out i identified the much taller of the two men as my long lost friend Bill.The smaller man i had never seen before, but my first impression was that he strongly resembled one Alfred E. Neuman of the old MAD Magazine fame, save the ungodly high pitched British accented voice that ceaselessly issued from his mouth like fingernails being dragged across a chalkboard.(I'll stop here for now. Its quite a long fiction i spin, let me know if anyone wants to hear more)

rick sumner

Trad climber

reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska

Apr 24, 2012 - 12:30am PT

It gets much better folks. Going to really piss off some individuals unless they follow the story to its end. Will post more tomorrow, too tired tonight.

BooYah

Social climber

Ely, Nv

Apr 24, 2012 - 12:33am PT

I only get out there every fourth year or so, and yet, I agree wholeheartedly with Norwegian. Bring it or Wing it.
No amount of drilling can save you. You are going to Die!

Brian

climber

California

Apr 24, 2012 - 12:42am PT

What the hell is going on with those bolts on the class 2 slab in that photo?!?

Captain...or Skully

climber

Apr 24, 2012 - 01:00am PT

Hmm. This Gal knows Wisdom. Personally. I think you've more miles than you let on, T*R... Wisdom is rarely gained without Pain.
Thank you for your perseverance. Folks like you are the main reason I feel it is worthy to rise each morning. It's coming.

BurnRockBurn

climber

South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)

Apr 24, 2012 - 01:38am PT

Well said T*R. I understand the passion that many climbers have regarding this issue. The only bolts I have places have been for anchors or replacing mank. If someone chopped em I would be pissed. But in my job,I see people suffer, get diagnosed with terminal diseases, die within minutes so this issue matters little in the grand scheme of things to me. I have climbed with several of the people in this discussion and they are good people. I am not in any way knocking anyone's passions or opinions. But just as T*R posted, keep things in perspective.
Be safe, be healthy, live life
Shawn

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Apr 24, 2012 - 02:02am PT

Well, yes, there certainly are pressing world and societal issues afoot at all times - surely too many for any of us to waste a moment climbing at all. But given we are, then maybe we should consider being reasonable stewards, self-police ourselves, and not treat every blank rock in America as just another place I haven't gotten to with my drill yet.

What's really going on in some places amounts to infill grid bolting with drills now powering the majority of new route 'development'. You can see it clearly in places like Red Rock where even 20' boulders at the base of Mt. Wilson aren't immune from sporting pointless three bolt clip ups.

So far climbers have shown again and again we suck at self-policing and that is in no way lost on land managers who are now as wired in as we are. And so long as climbers stay focused solely on 'access' while turning a blind eye on rampant bolting we will always be suspect to land managers, and rightfully so.

bhilden

Trad climber

Mountain View, CA

Apr 24, 2012 - 03:39am PT

This whole thread seems so strange to me. If no one will or can identify the route(s) which was chopped then how can anyone really, truly comment on what happened. Yeah, sure, you can say any bolt chopping is wrong, but there has been enough shenanigans at Sugarloaf that it seems critical to identify the route so we can all weigh in on whether the chopping was a good or bad thing. I don't understand why the information is not forthcoming.

Jon Beck

Trad climber

Oceanside

Apr 24, 2012 - 03:53am PT

If no one will or can identify the route(s) which was chopped then how can anyone really, truly comment on what happened.

So true

Some people believe that by being coy this debate can rage under the radar, not happening. They might as well have been truly coy and omitted the name of the climbing area, at least then the authorities might not be taking note.

couchmaster

climber

pdx

Apr 24, 2012 - 09:42am PT

bhilder said -

"This whole thread seems so strange to me. If no one will or can identify the route(s) which was chopped then how can anyone really, truly comment on what happened. Yeah, sure, you can say any bolt chopping is wrong, but there has been enough shenanigans at Sugarloaf that it seems critical to identify the route so we can all weigh in on whether the chopping was a good or bad thing. I don't understand why the information is not forthcoming. "

EXACTLY!! I'LL CHIP IN FOR A BOULDERING PAD IF THESE GUYS WOULD LEAVE THE DRILLS AT HOME. Bruce, this is the internet, everyone gets to pitch an opinion, even if they are not qualified (Like "hi, I've just learned and only been gym climbing in Connecticut for a week now and here's my opinion") and or don't know sh#t about it. Thats why the first guy put that post up there. To hear a bunch of lame assed sh#t from unqualified people who don't know jack sh#t.

Clearly these F***ing bolts are not welcome there, so stop putting them in. How dense do ya have to be to not understand that? And don't put this sh#t on the internet so every idiot in other states who've never seen and can't even spell sugerloaf can comment. Like me.

couchmaster

climber

pdx

Apr 24, 2012 - 09:44am PT

PS, I am looking for some used stainless hangers cheap for a project in case that factors. I'll gladly buy hangers that should not have been placed like these appear to be, but have no interest in stolen property though.

jus puttin it out dere......LOL

BurnRockBurn

climber

South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)

Apr 24, 2012 - 10:47am PT

Ron I'll keep an eye out for any increase of those symptoms in the ER.

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Apr 24, 2012 - 11:34am PT

Wow, *the* Rick Sumner?!?

rick sumner

Trad climber

reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska

Apr 24, 2012 - 11:35am PT

(continuation of post #39) They walked down to me, Bill's long arm draped over the shoulder of the little guy, shepherding him down the hill."Bill", i said, "this is impossible, you were ill, i mean you were at the point that you thought the rocks talked to you, i assumed you had left for the great beyond, man i've missed you, where have you been".We shook hands, then wrapped arms about each others shoulders in embrace, and he said," We called you up here through the ether and we were making our way down to meet you", he paused then said, "Rick my old friend, remember that climb we used to imagine,the one that extended above the clouds and never ended"."yeah Bill", i replied questioning. "Well i was climbing, Lost in the fog, having difficulties, but eventually i emerged above the clouds and it just kept going, my path clearer and the climbing difficult but i just flowed up the stone with ease. I can tell you, Rick, it is just like we imagined as kids, it just keeps getting better and better", he said as he gestured towards the incomparable beauty of the maiden behind him whose summit was now obscured in cloud.I reluctantly tore my gaze away from the vision of beauty and looked into Bill's eyes, looking for an answer to the mystery unfolding i asked,"Why are you here, why did you come off such a climb as that"? " Ahh", he said pausing to formulate a coherent answer, "Well i've been climbing along, not a care in the world except for the next section of stone immediately above me for, i guess you would call it 35 years now. Anyway there's an old man high above me and he sometimes talks to me through the stone, and i listen and heed his advice. So, well, he suddenly told me to rap off and give this wanker, i mean good man, some guidance and a helping hand",as he looked to the funny looking guy next to him." Hi ", i said extending a hand, " you must be Alfred i presume"." No yank", he replied, " i have many names but Alfred isn't one of them. Right now, i should by all rights be called swollen guy, but you can call me by my third name Nit". "Nit", i asked," do you have a last name"." Yeah, its Witt, my names Nit Witt". (to be continued)

The Larry

climber

Moab, UT

Apr 24, 2012 - 12:06pm PT

"BOLT WARS"
Coming to a crag near you...

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Apr 24, 2012 - 01:41pm PT

Rick,

You should bring Ron along and come climbing with me at the Leap. I'd love to hear a little history of your experiences there.

Think about it. Could be fun.

But we should do it before we get old.

P.S. Get Pat to drive up, too, how cool would that be!

bergbryce

Mountain climber

South Lake Tahoe, CA

Apr 24, 2012 - 01:55pm PT

Yeah, I'd like to know what was actually chopped. I don't want to be getting publicly pissed off over a 3 bolt route on some small boulder that would likely be better served by a TR anchor only. Details??