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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Apr 11, 2006 - 11:44pm PT
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Yo Dirt,
Anybody who has ever climbed HAS to visit Yosemite Valley. Words and pictures do not come close to seeing with your eyes.
One of my most vivid memmories was my first time in the Valley. I was trying to drive and see the top of El Cap at the same time. No matter how far I stuck my head out the window, all I could see was granite. El Cap makes Taquitz (my closest frame of reference) look like a one-pitch warm up.
For my money, the best views of the walls can be seen floating down the river on an inner-tube.
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Rags
Trad climber
Sierra foothills, CA
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Apr 11, 2006 - 11:51pm PT
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Dirt, if the question wasn't answered. There isn't anything that runs exactly up the shadow line. The closest is the "nose" route.
#10 in the pic approximates the line. 2800ft, 30+ pitches, good average 2.5 days (2 hours, 48 minutes, and 55 seconds if your hans n Yugi). That "arete" takes 5 minutes to walk around the base. It's BIG!
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spyork
Trad climber
Fremont, CA
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Apr 11, 2006 - 11:55pm PT
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Dirt,
If you stand at the base of El Cap and look up, it calls your name, in a very strong voice, not to be ignored. It is truly a wonderous and fearful thing. At least thats the feeling I got.
Karl's pictures are great, but its hard for a picture to convey the sense you get from standing there thinking about climbing it.
I haven't climbed it yet, but I will make it, sooner or later.
Peace,
Steve
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Elcapinyoazz
Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
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Apr 11, 2006 - 11:57pm PT
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Dirtybird, just go bro. I grew up in your neck of the woods, had climbed alot of big shizz in other parts of the west, Zion and so on, then made my first trip to the valley and HOLY SH*T! That was my reaction coming around that bend and seeing the Capt the first time. Almost drove off the road. It's awe inspriing.
Plus, there are miles of good routes that you should do. Some of my favorite routes of all time are there and I've literally climbed in every major area in the lower 48. Go. Late May/early june or late Sept/early Oct are pretty prime.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2006 - 12:01am PT
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Well tomorrow I find out what life is going to be like for the next year, and when it all starts, and I'm still holding out hope that they can operate again and get the rest, but, we'll see.
What I'm afraid of is that I'll have to start this chemo mess before the right time to go to your valley, then in a year I'll be so weak I won't be able to go, and then I'll die anyway, cause this is bad stuff I've got.
So if you think I'm afraid of 3k feet of rock, you're fvcking nuts, LOL. I have a hammer. I can get down what I get up. It might be sooner than later, LOL, and if so, fine. It might take one step for me to decide, yeah, I don't like this slick rock. Only one way to know.
Thanks for the almost offer, to anyone who almost made one, LOL.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Apr 12, 2006 - 12:05am PT
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dirt, these dudes are all trollin ya. That pic there is a real fine bolder problem, real fine. I start wit my left hand high on the arete(now I gave the beta away). A sit start makes it more interestin. I gots a couple pads ifn yall wants to try it...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 12, 2006 - 12:26am PT
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ok, how about some scale?
Hauling to Sickle Ledge on The Nose, 5 pitches up:
the shadow is on the arete, the trees in the foreground are between El Cap and the meadows.
Here's a blow up:
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 12, 2006 - 12:28am PT
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Some of my friends on Lurking Fear on the West Face of El Capitan
and a blowup:
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Slakkey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Apr 12, 2006 - 12:33am PT
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Dirt,
People become obsessed with it, they become even addicted to it. As Werner said " It will only cost you your soul" The first time you see it you will already want to come back. It is a powerful place. There is so much to climb there and it can take a lifetime to climb it all.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 12, 2006 - 12:40am PT
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ok, one more, James Herson leads p19 (5.13a) belayed by Derek Powell at the end of their first day on Salathe Wall
and the blowup:
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Apr 12, 2006 - 12:52am PT
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dirt, as impressive as it is during the day, what's really special is at night, when you see the headlamps of the various parties camped up there, strung out all over that giant face. It speaks to the insignificance of man.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Apr 12, 2006 - 08:37am PT
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It's prettiest when it has snowed. The whole Valley is gorgeous when it is draped in snow, although spring time when all the falls are roaring is also inspiring.
Karl, are you sure that is why Charlie called it the Shield? Werner?
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Newton
Big Wall climber
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Apr 12, 2006 - 10:06am PT
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The first time you see it you will already want to come back. It is a powerful place. There is so much to climb there and it can take a lifetime to climb it all.
Never caught me that way. Nice place, but over-rated.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Apr 12, 2006 - 11:27am PT
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So Newton, what climbing area do you think is under-rated or deserves to be considered as great?
Myself, I love the Valley and the Meadows, though it has been a long time since I have been in either (1992 for the former and 1993 for the latter). It is unique, although its little brother Hetch Hetchy was also a nice place before it was dammed (too many rattlers though).
However, I think looking at some of the walls on Baffin, near Denali, Patagonia and the Himalayas, there sure is a lot of beautiful places and rock (and ice etc) to climb. Plus there aren’t any snakes in those places.
Heck, even looking at how much rock the Sierras have (both alpine and all the stuff on the west and east sides), there sure is a lot of beautiful places to climb, though the rattlers are a concern.
Oops, my snake phobia is coming to the fore, but after the one thread where some pictures of rattlers were posted, and then reading about the Mojave Green, I am hesitant to climb in areas they are found, the Mojave Green that is (like JT and some of Inyo County).
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Apr 12, 2006 - 12:03pm PT
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Dirt even though the Ratings on ST may not look like hard #'s. Yosemite has some special techniques that many postershere take for granted. A .10c pitch on the nose is a lot different than a .10c warm up your used to. There are many moderate multi pitch routes at the base you can check out, that will give you a better idea.
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Newton
Big Wall climber
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Apr 12, 2006 - 12:10pm PT
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So Newton, what climbing area do you think is under-rated or deserves to be considered as great?
~ The Karakorum.
~ The Himalaya
~ Patagonia
~ Baffin Island.
~ Secret places in China I have been to and sworn to keep secret lest I be killed and made into soup.
~ Other (will remain unnamed here) areas that are yet underdeveloped and little advertised.
The Valley has been beat to death. It used to be a great place, but now is overrun with Gumbs and fools. The walls, even in winter, are overcrowded. One cannot experience the same thing that made it great. People have not left it better than they found it. It is now just a place that is USED by the elites and mis-understood by the wannabees.
It has become Disneyland. May I have this opinion as my own, or must I change it to conform to those opinions shared by the flock?
Fair enough?
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Newton
Big Wall climber
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Apr 12, 2006 - 12:15pm PT
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I notice that there is no: www.baffinislandclimbing.com
Better that way.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2006 - 12:18pm PT
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Mark,
I don't think you understand how we climb in my circle. It's new stuff about 80% of the time. New as in, never climbed before. we usually have no real idea of a rating, we just try to get up it first.
But I am a bit worried about polished granite. I guess it can't be much worse than white quartzite, or some of the slick green translucent rock I onsight free soloed once (lucky it was not a hard climb, or I'd be squished for sure).
But really, I have no idea if I will like that elcap rock or not. I'll just have to see. I did HATE Jtree popcorn rock, LOL. Quartz monzonite and I have an agreement: I won't step on it any more and it will leave me alone.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Apr 12, 2006 - 12:21pm PT
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Fair enough, but outside of the elite, wannabees, Gumbs and fools, and it being overcrowded, it is still an unique place. Surely the first time (and subsequent?) you went to the Valley it was an eye-opener. The natural beauty of the place and what it holds in many peoples hearts and minds shouldn't be diminshed by the human impact.
Despite all the negatives it is still wonderful place.
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Newton
Big Wall climber
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Apr 12, 2006 - 12:21pm PT
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Bra-dirt, you should be talking about all the stuff you find excuses to not climb. Don't lie to these fine people here. They are the real deal.
Holding the rope for Arno on a climb you will never do is not doing first ascents, despite your fondest wishes that it is.
Deal.
Yes, yes I know you have your name attached to three or four FA's in BSF. I know you humped loads up behind the leader. No doubt you have done a lot of dirty work. Cleaned and eaten a lot of tri-foliates, brushed much dirt from nasty cracks, and flailed prodigiously thereafter upon them.
BUT, stretching the truth should be made more apparent in your little BLOGS about what you did (or all the more likely, HOPED TO DO, but could not).
Climbers are supposed to have an honor system. Read up on it, Brah.
Keep it real up in the field, aaaiiiiiiight?
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