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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 11, 2006 - 12:30pm PT
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Keep in mind I know NOTHING about yosemite, except that that is what one of Buggs Bunny's greatest rivals is named for.
(I saw this in your funny trip report:
Would that arette that looks like part of a ship be called the prow?
How hard is it?
Does a lot of that go free?
Thanks.
Oh yeah, I saved your lexicon of Sprad terminology. That vital infomation must never be lost or forgotten!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Apr 11, 2006 - 02:53pm PT
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Dirt, 4 real. If you haven't been, you must go.
It is the holy land of our climbing religion (it does have a few tourons tho, sorry, can't be helped, freedom democracy and all that)
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Apr 11, 2006 - 02:58pm PT
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Dirt I know your were thinking about a few new routes when you made it out here, BUT there is a reason why some of those Yosemite climbs are classic. THEY ARE! A run up Royal Arches or the regular route on Fairview or Snakedike or, or, or..... Will put a smile on your face and in your heart, don't miss it.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2006 - 08:59pm PT
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Thanks guys, I'll keep that in mind.
I am still waiting for the answers to my questions.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 11, 2006 - 09:06pm PT
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That arete is his "Nose" and in the upper right you'll see his "eye" and to the middle left is the Captains "heart".
The whole North American continent is shaped in diorite below his "eye".
The Captain is awesome.
You must see to believe ......... do you want to?
And a lot of it goes free __ and it doesn't cost anything except your soul.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 11, 2006 - 09:12pm PT
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>Would that arette that looks like part of a ship be called the prow?
Yeah, but it's not because of the looks, it's short for "Proud" cause folks get all puffed up when they climb it. The trip report you read was about the "Shield" route, named for a brand of condoms commonly used in the Park.
for those who haven't seen it
http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/ElCapShield.html
>How hard is it?
Everything on El cap is miserable, even the easy routes. The route is A1 except when the pieces blow it's A3, but A 5 for stupid people. I took a 30 footer (or so) on the Groove pitch cause I didn't clip the mank but was held by a rurp
>Does a lot of that go free?
Everything but the aid pitches
>Thanks.
>>never be lost or forgotten!
The pleasure is all mine. Consider yourself Sprad
Don't feel bad about not having been to the valley. It's just as proud as being a real virgin to never go there.
;-)
Karl
From my El Cap Gallery
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2006 - 09:18pm PT
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Thanks again guys.
Why would I feel bad about never having been there?
But that arrete is talking to me, I might feel bad if I never go.
So what is the hardest grade of the reasonable free pitches? and how many pitches are there, and how many days to do it if you are slow?
And maybe most important, when is the right time to try?
Just from the pic, it looks like until you are about 3/4 of the way up, it goes free without too much trouble. then, it begins to go vertical and finally overhanging. Is that about right or am I way off?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 11, 2006 - 09:29pm PT
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Just in case you aren't trolling us for a good laugh.
The arete is the Nose. One of the most famous rockclimbs on the planet. You can buy a book about climbing it right on this site. Google it and all your questions will be answered.
The crux is all the other climbers
Peace
Karl
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2006 - 09:40pm PT
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"The crux is all the other climbers."
Ugh.
I don't troll, except by accident.
Just from the pic, it looks like until you are about 3/4 of the way up, it goes free without too much trouble. then, it begins to go vertical and finally overhanging. Is that about right or am I way off?
HUmor me, and answer this one.
I might have to buy the book. I have a friend who has tried the nose, with some folks who didn't know what they were getting into. I'd bet money he and I could do it, if I were in decent shape.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 11, 2006 - 09:50pm PT
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Just google it. There are billions of trip reports on the web. I think there's even a couple on my own site here
http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/TripReportwalls.html
Chris mac gives out a free topo on this site so you can check the ratings out. It's smooth and harder than it looks.
It's the logistics, aid climbing, pendulums and wide crack climbing and other parties in the way that shut people down. 50% bail rate at least.
Peace
Karl
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2006 - 09:59pm PT
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So, nobody has just tried to go straight up the bare-assed edge of the arete?
What am I missing here?
Is it just too polished and smooth for that?
In the pic at the top of the thread, the line made by the arete and the shadow is what I am talking about.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 11, 2006 - 10:04pm PT
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The Nose is the closest thing to what you're looking at. An Obscure route "the Real Nose" might be even closer.
Yeah, the thing is as smooth as a bank building in New York City. Everyplace with a crack is from 5.11 to Impossible and the cracks start at 5.10 ish and go to murderous.
It's El Cap. It wasn't freed until pretty recently
Peace
Karl
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2006 - 10:10pm PT
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So, maybe the real nose, would be less crowded then I take it?
I wasn't planning to free the whole thing, just as much as I could, and I was wondering where the aiding begins in earnest.
I've also never really been on polished granite before. what we have around here is a bit different, although white quartzite can be pretty slick. But White Quartzite usually has stuff to hold on to, if it can be done.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 11, 2006 - 10:44pm PT
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"The Real Nose" is mostly an aid route and I don't know of anyone who has done it and I know people who climb El Cap.
This is like falling in love with some woman you see across a crowded room and when you get closer it turns out to be a guy in drag.
Come on down to Yosemite and check it out. Everything will become clear
Peace
Karl
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2006 - 11:02pm PT
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One of my friends have a climbing saying.
When one of us (Usually me) says, "That route, it's calling my name.", he will take a look at said line, evaluate it, and then say, "I think I'd change my name.".
But I'm stuck with my name.
And so Karl, you're saying, that line we were talking about, it would be clear, right?
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Apr 11, 2006 - 11:08pm PT
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Dirt,
sorry I missed you Sat. Anyhow.... the valley is a MUST SEE. Seriously, take it from a southern boy who's addicted to the place.
So many cool things to do. Like I said, I'd like to go in Late July, August, when we can visit the high country.
Doug
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Apr 11, 2006 - 11:08pm PT
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Robbins calls it the South Buttress.
That's Royal for ya.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2006 - 11:14pm PT
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Doug, you bailer!!!
Had my hands full TRing 5.6 and taking naps, and meeting pretty girls I had met before. LOL.
There is this one very nice trad line, not in the guide, down by rocket slab. I'm going back to hang with Arno again in two weeks, I'm gonna take my rack and my saw and go up that gully.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 11, 2006 - 11:30pm PT
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I dunno Dirty
Have at it if you want.
It's all good
Peace
Karl
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Apr 11, 2006 - 11:41pm PT
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The scale of El Cap is a little hard to get your head around
just by looking at a picture.
That "arete" your eyeballing is about 3000+ feet of climbing.
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