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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Nov 12, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
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Smoke rolls over in his g-rave...RJ
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Nov 12, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
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You mean this, asshat?
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 13, 2011 - 01:20am PT
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Go in the summer, there's nobody there still.
Chinchen- I was up there a while ago. I found five ten anazasi that was in good shape. Did you, or a friend lose a shoe by any chance?
That spot is off the beaten path. I picked up the shoe because I figured the only people to out there would be people I know.
PS- that area is in the guide book if you look carefully.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Nov 13, 2011 - 02:00am PT
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Not sure who the shoe belongs to, Ill ask around. Yea I saw the clue....
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Nov 13, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
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Chinchen-
Yep - that's it. Your first photo is of the Crystal Method.
I wandered for years trying to located this boulder, until a nordic ski tour out my door one late winter afternoon, and the reflected light caught all of those quartz crystals. Which, as you've noticed, are unfortunately positioned upside down as regards any crimps.
The backstory dates back to the Winter of 1982-83, when Dale Bard, and Grant Hiskes, overwintered in the 'Milks in their respective vans.
Dale discovered this wall first...but declined to disclose it whereabouts to anyone. It took me 18 years to rediscover it; it's only human to feel a bit proprietary about it.
My 16 year old daughter (at least she was 16 then)and I would make it a point to park the Jeep at some distance, and carry rakes and brooms to erase our approach tracks.
Once, we were hangin' at the base, about to don shoes...when a couple of women wandered by, looking, evidentelly, for some new terrain.
To our immense relief, they walked right by our hidden gem - which,
BTW, has yet to appear in any guidebook I'm aware of. And should remain as such!
And Hey! Let's keep it civil dude. Yeah, I'm pissed about the degradation of the 'Milks, due to overuse issues. And I'll be damned if I am going to spend the abundant free time I'm left with after the effort required to actually make a living out here, cleaning up the filth left by transient visitors, who are not really vested here.
Since you've actually satisfied my threshold for a Buttermilk Welcome - well, no reason to start a flame war.
Just as long as you do not disclose the location of one of the highest quality face climbs out there. Let our visitors discover it for themselves. If they are not willing to put forth the effort, they do not deserve the reward.
Oh - speaking of which - a more well spoken poster suggested summer afternoons to avoid the crowds. Actually, that was the plan: one or two midsummer evenings per week...the rocks would go into the shade of Mt. Tom, and the temps were perfect, alpenglow on the Whites. I'd never bother with the weekends - because I was climbing in Yosemite.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 13, 2011 - 06:21pm PT
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Kabala, you sound like a crusty old territorial turd. Go wander around the high sierras for a while and be lonesome, pretty sure no one wants your company anyways.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 13, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
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I see where Kabala is coming from, but I can't begrudge a person for trying to have fun up there. I'm starting to wrap my brain around the fact that the buttermilk country is Bishop's Central Park. Everybody is up there having fun, climbers, hunters, hikers, birders, guys in rhinos and on bikes. It's busy, like a park in a city.
Solitude can be found, both by season and by location, but you are never far from civilization.
When my boulder area above Deep Springs pans out, I'll let you know. No one will ever go out there.
Ever been to that porcelain like boulder up behind Dale's Camp? It's also in the guidebook, totally cool, and way off the beaten path.
Unlike the area above, you can't see it from the main area.
If you aren't breaking flakes, you are not the first one there.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Nov 14, 2011 - 12:01am PT
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Wow! What a raft of replies!
Actually, I was just enjoying some self indulgent fun, while reminiscing about"the good old days." If you've only been climbing for the last 20 years or so, then the scene has morphed so gradually as to go practically unnoticed.
For me, the change seemed to have begun some years back. The half dozen or so regs would greet the visitor warmly, and show him or her around, usually leading to spirited bouldering duels. BTW, in the meantime, route and approach beta from Eastside Sports was not forthcoming- it was up to you to find it for yourself.
But one day I' strolling downhill.
Encountering an unknown, I give a winning smile and introduced myself.
Then notice he's blasting on a Walkman, carrying a crash pad, and is otherwise oblivious not to only to me, but to the Crest beyond.
This was the first of a rapidly changing social change in the bouldering demographic. I guess it's not the growing crowd that gets me so much as an emergient attitude about their sense of place.
Anyway, I was just funnin' But I can think of a couple of you who might want to wash out their mouths with soap.
BTW, any photos of anyone actually topping out on the Crystal Method?
They are definitely endurance problems, with cruxy moves above the midheight.
No, I didn't mean to infer that I seek solitude in the Buttermilks. Point well taken, I'll go up into the Sierra Crest for that. In midwinter; just me and Willie.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Nov 14, 2011 - 01:10am PT
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Speaking of asshats....
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MisterE
Social climber
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Nov 14, 2011 - 02:06am PT
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IN! I'll be up Friday morning!
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Nov 14, 2011 - 10:45am PT
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SWEET!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
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BUMP for this weekend
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
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Patagonia Palo Alto has donated goodies that any boulderer, trad climber or back country skier can use.
Nano Puff sweater, beanies, socks.
Read this whole thread to see all the goodies.
Weather forecast is poor for Friday, fair for Saturday and Sunday. Come out on Saturday at 8:30 AM at the parking area just before the Peabody's for the work party. Will be directed by Inyo National Forest. Last time, we put a lot of work into erasing unnecessary trails and clearly marking trails with rocks.
Party at Mill Creek Station at 7:00 Sat evening.
Talk/slide show by John Long.
Music by CoreShots
$5 donation for admission includes a raffle ticket. More tickets for sale.
Beer, soda and even a few munchies to go with the music.
18 and over only, please.
ID will be checked for beer.
Give back to the Buttermilk.
Meet new friends
Climb/boulder on Saturday PM and Sunday. Maybe even make some first of the season ski tracks.
Brought to you by the American Alpine Club, Access Fund and Friends of Inyo.
Edit: CORRECTION
work party REMAINS on Saturday at 8:30 AM.
sheeesh....what a screw up.
Thanks for catching it guys.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Nov 15, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
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So the work party has been moved to Friday?
Can I bring the kids or should I leave them at home in their kennels?
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Nov 16, 2011 - 10:05am PT
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Come out on Friday at 8:30 AM at the parking area just before the Peabody's for the work party.
Has it moved to friday morning instead?
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2011 - 12:28pm PT
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Workparty SATURDAY. Arrive 8:30 for coffee, donuts and social. Work starts at 0900.
Apologies for mucking up my earlier post, which I've now corrected.
Weather forecast for Saturday remains for good but cool weather.
From NOAA right now
Saturday: Mostly cloudy, with a high near 44.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
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Current forecast for Buttermilk area
Saturday: Mostly sunny, with a high near 45. North northwest wind between 6 and 8 mph.
Saturday Night: Mostly cloudy, with a low around 19.
Sunday: Partly sunny, with a high near 47.
Sunday Night: Mostly cloudy, with a low around 24.
Looks as if the storm is going North of Bishop
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Nov 17, 2011 - 07:48pm PT
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Hmm...I feel pretty ridiculous.
And I apologize.
Actually, events such as this...the development of The Gorge - they do a very great deal to sustain our economy!
It was just gallows humor, as such, really. As in: "this place sucks; they ought to quarry it."
Most if not all of the near-site degradation is due in large part to our local redneck constituancy, running over hill and dale with their ORVs, dirtbikes. Those ruts leading up and left of Sunshine, for example. Some jerk decided to blaze his own road; others followed. Overuse and abuse at the more obvious of what still remains (& let's try and keep it this way!) at large camp sites is not due to the "leave no trace" climbing community, but others of the large user groups who are not well grounded in front country/back country land management ethics.
Every time I road trip out to Moab, I find that the BLM has taken yet another wash or cyn Shangri La away from camping and motorized access. It's not aggressively policed yet, and I see folks, including climbers, ignoring the closure signs to drive right in. Yeah, I guess I'm getting kind of old and crusty...but, at least for now, I'll walk in - tire tracks on the other side of the sign is only going to mean less at large camping out there.
In my attempt to ameliorate my faux pas, let me make some mention of some cool rides for gear heads looking for some xtraining.
Using the corral, a few miles in, as a benchmark:
1. Ascend to the Fence Boulders, make a right and circumnavigate the entire S. Mt. Kielforth massif. 2 miles uphill; about 5 or 6 downhill. Cross McGee Ck on the 2x12, and return to the corral by a choice or routes. Before you pick up too much speed, be mindful of the gate by the 1st fork (RH goes up to the Addams Family)- it might be closed.
2. About 1/2 mi uphill from the corral, take a left, and pass the most popular and obvious campsite. A very slow climb brings one to a McGee Ck ford, best portaged on your left, where it narrows to an easy hop skip and a jump. After a short stretch, leading past some of the better campsites, amoung the pinons, comes a hillclimb test - know your gears, set your seat on the high side. About 150 vertical feet at a steep grade. Catch your breath on the very sandy road leading to Dale's Camp, then make a left and either portage (or ride, if the soil's frozen) a very steep jeep use trail - 150 feet. The 5 mile downhill is worth it, and brings you directly to the corral. Now that it's common knowledge, you'll be cruising by The Crystal Method.
3. Single Track - ah shucks, I'll describe those another time.
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Lurking Fear
Boulder climber
Bishop, California
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Nov 17, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
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I appreciate your responses; they show your love for the place. I share the love. I might be one of the few people who doesn't mind the crowds. I've met some very cool people that I keep seeing every year. I do disagree with your view on pads however. I can't afford to fall sans pad on some of the boulders. Thanks, Andrew
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