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Guck
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Oct 26, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
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Before you get started in alpine climbing, get rid of any ego you have, and learn to respect the mountains. They can destroy you in a second if you are not in tune with them. The biggest killer in alpine climbing is ego, well before avalanches and rock falls. Mountaineering is as much a spiritual as physical. You must be fit physically, and be ready to back down, even 100 feet from the summit. The later is often the most difficult (and deadliest) part.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Oct 26, 2011 - 05:13pm PT
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Get up early and head for the mountains. Perhaps someone like donini will pop in and fill in the minor details.
Good luck.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Oct 26, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
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There are several qualities one needs to be an alpine climber. Based on my 30 years experience and having climbed some big mountains, you need, not just a willingness to suffer, but you need to appear as if you genuinely enjoy it. One also needs a very short memory. " even when it's not fun, it's still fun". On a lighter note, one should not be too upset about burying ones partners now and then, because in the mountains, sh#t happens; on a regular basis. One needs to develop that inner voice, and listen to it. When it says go down, you go down. As Don Whillans once remarked, " those mountains will be there next week, next season ect.. the idea is for you to be there as well."
Have fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
TY
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corniss chopper
climber
breaking the speed of gravity
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Oct 26, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
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Hmmmm...'Alpine climbers enjoy suffering' might not be completely accurate.
Perhaps a better way to say it is that Alpine Climbers feel pain when they are not feeling pain and so are much more comfortable when they are on a mountain.
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Tung Gwok
Mountain climber
South Bend, Indiana
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Oct 26, 2011 - 08:08pm PT
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A bump for taking a course. I started with a 24-day course with the American Alpine Institute in the North Cascades. They ere good about teaching decision-making and skills, not just pulling you up the mountain. But then, yes, you have to move out on your own: make your own decisions, take your own risks. For high altitude, the volcanos in Mexico are a relatively easy access and inexpensive start -- they get you to 18,000 feet without killing your wallet. For alpine rock, the Canadian Rockies.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 26, 2011 - 08:10pm PT
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Get "Freedom of the Hills" and a highlighter pen and read it like it's your bible. - Tami
Damn, I knew I phukked up somewhere along the way.
Thanks, Tami, I guess I better catch up on my reading.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Oct 26, 2011 - 08:15pm PT
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OKAY. There is your advice.
Now if you tell us the area where you live we can point you to some places to get started.
I started with a pair of work boots and an army surplus knapsack. Later I found a cracked Ice axe on Mt Hood and a broken pair of forest service crampon (spikes for feet). I am still alive after a number of climbs.
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
Mammoth, CA
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Oct 26, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
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learn by doing. If you can't problem solve and figure things out for yourself the mountains and cliffs will eat you alive. There is no recipe. Yes, read freedom of the hills, but more importantly get up early, put on the pack, and get up there!
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wetworx
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2011 - 09:51pm PT
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i typically find myself in places at sea level with any mountain being at least 6hrs drive out...its terrible.
I guess I have to expect to take holidays and fly out often (and checking-in my gear) to gain any experience right?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 26, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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No excuses! I learned the ways of the high mountains growing up in Chicago!
GO GIT SOME!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Oct 26, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
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Learning how to Alpine Climb?
For me: it started out with growing up in the Mountain towns of Ketchum/Sun Valley Idaho.
Hiking in the mountains as a child and teen-ager, and then skiing the mountains in winter: made me comfortable with the mountain environment.
A brief introduction to roped climbing during my 19th summer, led to much more roped climbing, and then roped-leading in the mountains: during my 20th summer.
Two months constant climbing in Idaho’s Sawtooth Range during my 21st summer: led up to what I considered my first “Alpine Adventure.”
Late that summer: four of us hiked into the east-side of 13,295 Ft. Gannett Peak in Wyoming’s Wind River Range. I knew Gannett had glaciers, and the first crevasses, any of us would encounter. I memorized the chapter on Glacier Travel, and crevasse rescue from “Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills.”
We did a new route variation on the East-side of Gannett, and survived the mountain, with one un-roped climber slipping on a steep snow slope: above the bergschrund, and a resulting minor back injury to Harry, and a tweaked knee for Rob, from another slip/fall on snow.
Chris and I: as the healthy climbers, enjoyed doing some more climbing, before our group limped out.
Two weeks later: Harry & I took the Rainier Mountain Guides: 5 day mountaineering course. It included: ice axe arrest practice, ice climbing, igloo building, and a summit climb of Rainier.
After that preparation: I was ready to be an Alpinist---------and likely soon die--------because I had confidence, but not nearly enough knowledge.
I lived through numerous alpine adventures, but I’m a survivor, and always was willing to retreat, rather than die.
“Glory or death” was usually not my slogan!
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zo.bulo
climber
Wyotucky
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Oct 27, 2011 - 12:29am PT
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I got into alpine things by living near them. Get out there, & earn a place in that world. It'll have you, if your worthy.
If you're not, then you die. Simple Simon.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 27, 2011 - 01:29am PT
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things that are good to know about alpine climbing:
1) a good trip to Canada means every other day, on average, you can climb. expect your summer vacations to be terminated by snow, be prepared to wait for weather, there is some alpine climbing in the states, there more and better in Canada and Alaska...
2) it takes a lot longer to get up, get dressed, get fed and get on the approach in the morning than you can imagine.. it means you've got to get up earlier
2a) you might not be able to sleep, but your body is resting if your reasonably sheltered and relaxed... don't stress about sleeping
3) if you can solve the "early breakfast" problem then you've accomplished something no one else has...
4) learn to set a turn around time and turn around when you reach it
5) carrying gear in is a drag, especially when you have to tradeoff its weight for food, learn to climb with a lot less gear
6) Alpine means snow, ice and rock, know how to climb in all those media
7) Learn how to stay warm enough
8) Climb the route, not the guidebook description, which can be humorously brief... e.g. the Kruszyna/Putnam guide devotes 20 words to describing the W. Ridge of Mount Saskatchewan a climb they say takes 8 hours... it is over 3000' of climbing... given their approach description you'd be lucky to actually get on it... and then you'll have found that having taken point 5) to heart, you're not going to be able to do it...
9) start with easier routes, work up to harder routes, weather is a big factor, you will climb in weather, it will make an easier route into a harder route
10) climbing is not safe, alpine climbing opens you up to a whole class of risks that can make it even less safe... you're rolling the dice, etc... stack the deck in your favor and hope you can always ante up...
11) pick your partners well, they will save your life, most likely you're all alone out there, think through the consequences of what you're about to do assuming you have only yourselves to deal with the outcome
12) your gonna die, but at least have fun before it happens
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Sergio Colombo
Mountain climber
Red Rock
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Oct 27, 2011 - 04:18am PT
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for me the steepest learning curve when I got into alpine climbing was to be able to climb and walk on rock with crampons on. It does take a while to get used to it and be safe/secure at the same time. I think a clinic would be helpful to begin with, but there is nothing like going out on your own and do it. Best of luck to you.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Oct 27, 2011 - 09:13am PT
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Good stuff Ed.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Oct 27, 2011 - 11:18am PT
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While my post somewhere above was a bit tongue in cheek (cornice chopper's misinterpretation not withstanding) I believe Ed has nailed it. Your best bet is to take some courses, and then hook up with folks who have been at it a while and learn by doing with those more experienced than you. Everything else is icing on the cake, because you are going to die. But before you do you get to see things like....[
or
or
and when you get down you get to.....
TY
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 27, 2011 - 11:48am PT
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we can play this game another way...
caption the photo, the "climbing rag" caption and the "actual" caption
climbing rag: "Lawrence traversing over the gendarme to the upper section of the W. Ridge"
actual: "what ever you do Lawrence, don't knock that stack over, we'll never reverse it without!"
climbing rag: "sunrise on Jenny Lake while approaching Symmetry Spire"
actual: " we're so late we could have slept in and taken the boat across"
climbing rag: "the retreat offered the consolation of beautiful views"
actual (see below): "anyone need some more bandages and moleskin?"
climbing rag: "Sunrise on the Emmons Glacier"
actual: "feeling that same pre-dawn nausea... how does the saying go? 'red sky in morning...'"
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Oct 27, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
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Yes Ed, good list, I'm particularly fond of #4, turn around @ your set turnaround time, ignoring this one has been the major cause of most of my epics. I also like #11 - pick your partner well, what was that one famous line by one of the Lowes about his partner on that severe route on Mount Robson? (I'm paraphrasing) "You may not be able to lead 5.10, but I figured you had a high survivability factor", so true, some people got it, some don't. It really helps in alpine climbing to have "high survivability factor"
Phil, an old climbing buddy of mine, John Lafferty (ex OB instructor) did Wham Ridge in flip flops, in winter like conditions. And honestly dude, with people like Tami, Jello, Steve Shea and Donini on here? I think that the majority of us can say....We're not worthy.
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