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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 12:12am PT
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Thanks Jim i will.. don't worry Tami i got lots of short friends to lead that chimney pitch ;)
My buddy luke wants to do The Nose. He went to Yosemite this spring for a couple weeks and got inspired to do it.
He came back trying to convince me to go clean aid u-wall. I'm a freeclimbing addict and the weather was good so that never materialized this summer.. I'm game tho.. Verticle camping looks like fun :)
I've been following Tom's El Cap Reports to check on Ammon and Pete's ( Busted!) ;-) progress and of course view his awesome photos.
Bruce- You guys inspire me. I hope i'm still climbing hard and contributing in my later years.
Luke- You're on supertopo now? :) shoulda known that link would bring you over here :) That's the best photo of my ass that i have ever seen :)
Funny thing about that pitch.... Luke decided that we should make it interesting when we went up Milk Road. He decided that if either one of us should decide to give up a lead he would owe the other a sixer. I agreed and proceeded to lose the rochambo. Luke chose to lead the first pitch meaning i would have the sharp end for all the hard pitches :) Dammit!
After I led the 10c a0 second pitch i was done. I managed to get through the first Milk Run corner clean on top rope but that second pitch was ROUGH! I worked my way up to about where you see me in that photo and
got the piece in and tried to run it out to the better holds but was unsucessful getting gear in and took a decent size whip..
After that I was done and so last weekend I bought Luke a case of Steam Whistle :)
Any one for another photo?
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 27, 2011 - 01:50am PT
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frickin crazy,
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 02:15am PT
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Right you are Sprock it's not Dreamcatcher but it's neighbor Kloset Klimb at Cacodemon Boulder.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 27, 2011 - 02:42am PT
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tami, will you mari me?
are you a high priced baby?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 03:10am PT
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Sprock I can dig man
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Sep 27, 2011 - 03:53am PT
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"Big Barn Door" 10c
2 bolts? Really? It's V-nuthin'. Just gang pad it!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 11:44am PT
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Biotch- Really? You did that? How did you get back down? I would not like to downclimb that flake.
Last pitch of Upper Echelon
Climber Py
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 27, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
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Photo: Matt Cormier
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
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Tami I thought about that but I haven't tried it yet. I'll be sure to give it a go next time. I "Tron"ed that thing so i should really sack up and lead it next time too.. I was in photo mode that day..
Speaking of Center Street
by Mike Cowper, on Flickr
Edit: Luke tell Matt nice photo! I wanna climb sparky's crack now! The 10b second pitch looks sick!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 27, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
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Hey Tami, I have a question for you regarding one(of the many)the FFAs, the route in particular "Overlyhanging out" @ the malamute sent by you and Peter C. in 1980. The current route according to my trusty ol' K.M. 'A Climbers Guide To Squamish' 2001 Edition the main overlap sections are accessed via 'Meares Island', but It notes that You and Peter are believed to have started on 'Cling Peaches' and accessed the overhanging dihedral from the lowest possible point. Which IMO is more appealing line as it maintains the same natural line through out.
If you have any recollection of the particular route it would be super rad to hear what you remember. I was in the area today takin some photos of new lines I would like to climb and what not, and this line really appealed to me, albeit the access to the corner needing some vegetation removal.
I would have some photos to perhaps refresh your memory and provide eye candy for those who have not yet seen all the amazing cracks in the area. However I decided I'd rap in to check out the route and apon pussiking out of there I managed to trundle my (girlfriends) digi cam in to the abiss, along with all the rock porn I was going to drool over until it dry outside... oops.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
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oops. guess your gonna have to get that g12. My phone died today guess i'm gonna have to get that iphone going.
Maybe if you find the camera the memory card will still be intact?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 28, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
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Thanks for the reply Tami, I enjoy reading your recollections of the golden era! I'm about to head back to the area and try to find said camera, and clean the access to lowest, most northern entrance into the feature. Hopefully the memory card or perhaps(extremely unlikely) even the camera is still intact...
Yes Tami you are right the name is Acadian, I grew up in Prince Edward Island, how ever my father father was never close to my family, having kicked my dad out of the house when he was 14, so I never really got to find out where the name came from or any of my ancestry.
-Luke
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 28, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
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Hopefully the memory card or perhaps(extremely unlikely) even the camera is still intact...
You never know. I dropped a camera (Nikon, in the film era) from the start of the fourth pitch of Rock On many years ago. Watched it plummet straight onto the rocks in the gully. I didn't think there'd be any point in looking for it, but decided that maybe the insurance company would believe me about needing a replacement if I could actually show them a shattered piece.
So when we got down I trudged around to the south side and back up the gully to look for whatever was left. What I found was a completely intact and usable camera. A filter I'd had on the lens was shattered and there was a dent in the lens barrel. That was it. I took some pictures to test it, and they were fine. (I did replace the lens barrel, but could have chosen not to.)
So go look. You'll probably find wreckage, but you never know.
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 29, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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50m+ of air time, unnoticed. I didn't realise it was gone until I went to take a picture... When I went back today and rappeled in, this time all the way to "Meares Island" and spent a while sawing back the alder bushs that have overrun the area. Then I decided, what the hell, I'd scope the Island as I thrashed my way down the sloppy, berry bush covered terrace, I notice glint of pink, and there it way perched mid berry bush as If it had a soft landing, was Aislinns Hot Pink digi cam... and yep still works, although the screen is slightly more dinged it still tkaes a might fine picture.
Also tami here's pictures of the crack I inquired about:
-The start would need a clean up, but it IS illegal to BE on the ground there. Possible solution; put a bolted anchor at the start of the crack. Thoughts?
Then in thru this:
And then the Icing on the metaphorical cake:
-2 Nice undercling section and 2 technical looking slab sections inthe the ultra goods!
If indeed you and peter did FFA this section of the route then It would ultimately be your guys call whether or not I can add an anchor for rappel access into this delightful looking traverse, as it is trespassing on B.C. rail property to access via that grungy looking corner .
Thanks,
http://thekidcormier.blogspot.com/
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2011 - 12:55am PT
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Tami- Awesome story. It musta been cold hanging there holding the rope for so long. Did you guys ever clean stuff before the fa? Or was that strictly frowned upon?
I'm always amazed at the stuff you guys did on hip belays back then.
I toprope hip belayed my parner on the crux pitch of sparrow this year.
I think she would rather not ever repeat the experience and will never let me forget my atc at the belay again! :)
Your beautiful story deserves another picture. Seeing as That Kid Cormier inspired said
story, it seems fitting that it should be of him.
On the Roo
Luke, If you look at your book again you will notice that the FA is the one that started on Cling Peaches on aid.
This gets me to thinking about Grub Street. Me and a buddy did it this summer and it was super fun.
I led Cider crack and found it very sustained! Not your typical Squamish 9! We did the Knuckleduster variation to finish and it was excelent.
I was wondering what line you guys did on the FA. From the 01' book it looks like you stayed right for the first two pitches and then deeked
left for the last one. Did you do the left pitch or stay right on the Knuckleduster variation? It also says you can finish up right on Stooges.
Allright all this talk.. how bout another picture..
Anyone ever climb this one?
Ghost- Funny story. Ever tell Nikon that one? Looks like your camera isn't the only one to suffer a large fall and survive :)
Luke- You should post that question on squamishclimbing.com too.
Squamish Sunset
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 29, 2011 - 11:48am PT
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Mike: I took your advice and posted my question on squamish climbing, maybe i can spark some conversation on there. I'm going to head back to the malamute to attempt an onsite on clean crack you should come and send caboose! I'll be heading down around 4:30, gimme a call.
And since you have read the squamish 70s thread you should know that tami noted the would aid and clean line on the rain days and then free them when the weather was fit.
-luke
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
B.C.
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Sep 29, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 30, 2011 - 10:56am PT
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Tami, good call I'll toss in a couple SLCDs, easy peezy. I've never rappelled into a gear anchor before so the thought didn't cross my mind.
And BTW that is The Table as seen from Brohm ridge
Bruce- Thanks for the story about Meares Island naming, who won the battle?
Nigel- Sweet pics thanks for sharing, what were you guys sending that required such an early start?
Here's some phots of the notorious climbing message board lurker Kyle Korrol;
P.s. Tami you are well educated on acadian history...
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