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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Right! Ascent 1973, the "Opinion" piece by Jim Bridwell. Probably the BEST thing Jimmy ever wrote! Great piece, with great photos! (Man, Ascent was the FINEST annual climbing journal ever!)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I assume that no matter how much beta I get I never do the problem as described... in this case, I don't think I'll ever do the problem anyway.
Rob, I'm shocked and amazed that you all would "mis-beta" a route! but the sweetest ascent is the one where bad-beta is spewed and you send anyway...
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Ed, that’s true. When you out bag the sand bagger, Sweeeet! (my kids say that)
Edit: Ha! Werner you got pegged for the beta Slogan… Sweeeet!
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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"muscles must conteract gravity. Although they may relax fully, they also remain alert in case they are called into play to prevent the body from falling.. thus is the power of contraction"
Awesome display of Mr.Gleason...Holy Latissimus Dorsi!
jow
that second shot..now that's what we call bankin on the leader.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Gramiccio/Roccomazzo:
Yup, Tarbuster.
Here's the skinny. No more foolin 'round. Right after I finish mah coffee- hey, 'know why the call me tarbuster? I cut right through cr#p, deceit, lies.
Here's the rest: its been 15 odd years since this foto was snapped and I'm issuin' fair warnin': I've been slammin' big iron. Yup, WAY tougher lookin' now. Don't care 'bout Icons, doon't care if'n I gotta take some lumps. Me 'n Lechlinski are wakin' up from our flatbeds and we're gonna be pullin' them BOLTS on Serprise. Grammiccio- no matter you been kind 'n genrous in the payst. Ya dunnit. The only serprise yer gonna git, is the one where ya ain't got nothin' ta hang yer sissy little laminate Stonemasters cards when ya go to lay up the first real no hands solo.
'nuff said
Tarbousier.
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Wonder
climber
WA
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say, what are you puting in your coffeee?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Gee Wonder,
By the looks of things here, I don't think I really needed "anything" innit.
Eh?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Rob--
Show me photos of you or anyone else Gastoning the opposite walls (according to your beta) of the candlestick "shelf" and I'll buy you a burger.
And I was just talking with Mike G. about Hangdong Flyer and 1096. For such short route those are two mean climbs. 1096 must be the hardest 5.10d I ever did, and trying to wiggle stoppers
into 1096 was way harder than the moves.
JL
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Wow, what an awesome thread. Rmuir, do you know the date on that photo of Phil on 10.96, posted above? I was thinking early 70's, before the birth of his kid and eventual relocation to Washington.
Largo, that shot of Phil was taken a few years back (3 or 4 now), he still looks the same these days. I'm heading over there next weekend, I'll make sure to alert him of this thread and see if he can crank up the wayback machine...
Location...not gonna spray it out loud here, pm me for details. Best boldering in Washington state, hands down, both for volume and quantity. Private property but the landowners are cool, just bring some brews with you and it's all good..here's another tasty shot.
bvb, got your email, correctomundo...
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Wonder
climber
WA
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yo, I'll stab at it. the gorge, eh? been around alot but not seen that. alot of my friends up here climb in there, but ive only seen it from the hwy.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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That picture on 1096 was what made me need to find it. Without that one I might never have done that climb.
Phil Gleason; a mentor-by-proxy to me.
To this day, I remember Leroy's effusive and lavish praise,
"I didn't think you were gonna make it."
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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I went to the valley one spring with two goals: Lead 10.96 and Hawkman's Escape.
I got some good boldering done instead.
I should have been a better student....
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Yeah, Tarbaby. When you outed me in that climbing gym in summit county a couple of years ago you were sooooo massive you eclipsed the sun, 'smirk.'
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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oops.
-now slinking deeply into "1096".
(not the climb)
edit...
hahahha
Yeah Jobe, he's callin' me skinny.
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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lol -Jaybro but pleease! -just say it is'nt so, I cant fathom Tarbuster as massive!
Roy he's bustin your chops eh?
xojobee
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I think that photo of Phil G. in 1096 is from 1970, and I believe that the next year we did the first ascent (Bridwell, Klemens, and me--barely). We all faced left side in.
JL
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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JL, thanks. I was thinking '70 or '71. I love that picture of him ripping outa 10.96 that thing in Vertical World of Yosemite (i think that's what it's called, i'm sh#t with names), two photo sequence thingy.
Someone should post that up if they know what I'm talking about, it's proud.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Wonder, no. Other corner of the state. But there is some really good boldering in need of development down in the gorge. Rowena Crest area,which is in Oregon and then on the Washington side, way out east.
I hit both areas up to break up the monotony of drives and too much kiting but they should be developed a lot further.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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(way aside from the topic) Eastern Washington has so much rock and so few climbers. It's such undiscovered country that it's sort of like a time warp back to the seventies: there are untouched crags still awaiting the touch of the first climber. Don't tell anybody I told you though, the few in the know would stomp me bloody and have me spitting out teeth the same as if I cut off some local at The Wedge all back in the day.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Off, that trip we were plannin? Make it quick, the boyz got a special event planned for you.
"Boy, you got a purdy mouth..."
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