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WBraun
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 3, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
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We continue onward with the epic saga “StoneMaster Stories” (Part V)
Part four can be found here, with the links to all the previous parts going back to the original start by John Long
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=157408&f=0&b=0
Off White wrote:
Oh, sure, you were so poor your couldn't drive to Rubidoux. Well let me tell you, you had it good. We were so poor we couldn't leave Pacific Beach. At least you had rock, we had to climb concrete. Why, we were so poor that when we were done we had to go back home to our cardboard box in the middle of the street and drink rat poison just so it wouldn't hurt so much when our dads came home and killed us again.
rmuir said;
Off White said, "Why, we were so poor that..."
Yeah, yeah... Uphill in the snow, both ways! :o)
=
That's 628 posts to here for one thread
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wildone
climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
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this should be a coffee table book
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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I think there is someone smart enough on this site that is making it one.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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DAMN. check out the cut one this old guy:
Phil Haney, still crankin'.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dude, are you kidding me? Is that really Phil Haney? Wheere was that photo taken??
Very curious. That guy did a few V10 boulder problems in the late 60s. One, "Candlestickless," at Roubidoux, is to my knowledge unrepeated. I tried it like 10,000 times, could never get it, and had to like it.
JL
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Johnny... Candlestickless has been done by a few other people, including Phil Haney. But, do you know WHEN he bagged the first on that monstrosity?
Now, didn't Haney do some stuff up Baldy Canyon long before the Uplandish got their learner's permits?
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scuffy b
climber
S Cruz
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I thought from blowboarder's post that this was Phil Gleason?
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Upstream, de eee said, "Robb Dellinger was killed in a car accident along 395 in the late 80's (?). There were rumours that it wasn't an accident, but I really don't know anything about that.
Actually, if I remember correctly, Robb was killed NOT on 395 but, instead, on Hwy 14. Somewhere along the Red Rock Canyon section. Late at night, solo, so I believe that Al Bartlett thought that he probably fell asleep...
Robb was one of the "West Ridge Boys" under the tutillege of Don Lauria. He, and Mike Graber, hung at Stoney. Who else was in that group?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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oops, my bad, had a brain fart. that's phil GLEASON, yes. keep getting the roubidoux "phils" mixed up.
did i miss a post? did somebody already throw this pic up? i copped this photo off b.com...
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scuffy b
climber
S Cruz
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Robs
Before (or aside from) being a West Ridge guy, Robb was in a
mostly Santa Monica "gang" called the Buff Mountaineers.
Robb, Groovy Graber, Big Al Bartlett, Dave (coolhead) Black,
Jimmy Black, Dave Hanbury, Greg, Craig, and Dennis Jennings
(they had the cabin in Idyllwild), Mike Blake, others I don't
recall.
They had neat little caps almost like cycling caps: G & E Buff Co.
Black and Bartlett were my early teachers, Big caught my first leader fall, but they would never let me have one of the caps.
There were supposedly national security issues.
I think all the memos have been "lost."
sm
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scuffy b
climber
S Cruz
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bvb
That foto was posted in a thread called Yo Blowboarder on the
previous page.
sm
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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There certainly has been a underlying "feel" or "tone" in reading the last thread --- StoneMaster IV (Beneath the Planet of the Stonemasters). 30+ years later and the friendly? jabs and barbs from the Rubidoux Boys and the Woodson Men still continues (ROTFLMAO hilarious).
Someone eluded to it being "High Noon."
And I say to that --- and the characters are The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly! Seems like some issues haven't been resolved just yet.
Read the thread again especially near the end and play Ennio Morricone in the background. Too funny.
(Copy into web browser and hit enter)
http://www.clinteastwood.net/realmediafiles/music/gbu.ram
On-edit: On second thought it is very much here too on SM V. I think I'm going to go make some popcorn now for the inevitable showdown. This is good entertainment . . .
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WBraun
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2006 - 06:36pm PT
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Yep It's Phil Gleason up there with the Guns of Navarone on him.
Original StoneMaster from before any of us. Yosar from it's beginings.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Actually, Rob, I think you've bought into the legend that Candlestickless was done by others. All the Stonemasters who have written in on this list I climbed with at Roubidoux many, many times and I never once saw anyone ever get even remotely close to doing it without the sticks (with sticks it wasn't that hard).
Now Phil Gleason--that's a blast from the past. His brother Paul was a kind of mentor to me.
I still wonder what the hell Phil Haney is up to. Nobody has seen him is like 30 years.
JL
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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The classic Rowell shot of Phil Gleason on 1096. A route that has definitely fallen into obscurity. Don’t bring your picnic lunch to this one.
Dennis Hennick was another one of the Don Lauria gang adding to the list.
My recollection on the Baldy BBoulders were they were some of the slickest rock on the planet. So polished You could even see yourself while you climbed. Place has to be different with all the 500 year storms we’ve gotten over the last 10 years, either washed away or even slicker still.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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me and johnny wason did hangdog flyer and 10.96 on the same day. we thought 10.96 was WAY harder....especially for the leader. damn that thing is fukkin' BRU-TAL.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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THAT'S the photo I was looking for... Classic shot of Phil! Check out the RRs! "The Good, the Bad and the Insecure", wasn't it? Where did you find that, Mike?
And, Largo... Re. Candlestickless... While YOU might not have done it, there have been some who HAVE done the Stickless! Me, for one.
Both hands matched on the left side of the plaque shelf. High step with the left foot, throw the right foot into the bottom of the plaque and lieback on the left-side with the left hand, match briefly, then right hand against the right side of the plaque, transfer weight to the right side, quickly bring the left foot up and drop the right (switching feet so that the LEFT foot is now on the shelf--is, without a doubt, the hardest part--and (here's the clever part) drop the right foot and arm-bar the left knee against the left elbow. One can almost rest in that position. From there, one can reach the first little hold up-and-right, left hand on that sloper as an intermediate hold, set both feet on the bottom shelf of the plaque, and then reposition the left hand higher. From there, one can go for the better knob at the top. Pull up, and then shoot for the divot up-and-right over the top. Hike the feet up, and over the top.
I have NO idea how Haney ever did it. But once the left candle stick fell off, working-out the Candlestickless was of high interest. Even the single stick made for a serious challenge!
Before the advent of crashpads, that thing was QUITE committing. I remember taking a few solid wingers off that thing. And, back then, solid spotting was a learned (and VERY APPRECIATED) art.
And, now that the second candlestick has been replaced, I've gotta drag Hensel up on that sucker! (...like you said, it isn't that hard.) Sure. You betcha.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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rmuir, you spoiled it for us! so much for "Just Say No to Beta"...
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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"Just say no to beta" is Werner's thing! WE used to take anything that was handed to us. With a boulder-sized grain of salt. (Since most of the "beta" was a known ruse designed to trip us up...)
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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You tell him Ed, For the record I didn’t read the description above
Robs it was Ascent Mag. The one with Cerro Torre on the cover. The articale was “the Innocent The Ignorant And the Insecure” aka “the rise and fall of the Yosemite decimal system”
Also had Lowe’s account of North Face of Alberta.
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