Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
|
donut, yeah I rated it 5.8 in the guide, but the two guys following that ascent both fell off and they're 5.10 climbers so I was wondering. Did it on lead so with the extra paraphernalia on me it was hard to rate. Why I was curious.
Spencer grade .10b ;)
|
|
vector
climber
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
|
Don't forget the wheelchair race down Tollhouse grade.
Slater, you need me to grade your route and here's why:
Recently I went to do my very own route, put up on lead and graded 5.8 on Condome. I couldn't even get up it. WTF?
|
|
hairyapeman
Trad climber
Fres-yes
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
|
Wish I could come, but alas have to miss it again. Doing the Shield over that weekend. Have fun. Maybe next year I can make it.
Nice tit eh?
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 05:02pm PT
|
vector, couldn't get up it or couldn't get it up? ;)
Condome... man you're getting around. Fun climbing out there but was afraid I was going to get abducted by some methhead... those hills have eyes.
See you at the faceoff!
edit- JR just said you're a woman so no disrespect :)
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 05:32pm PT
|
Doing the Shield over that weekend
I hope you have a great time!
John
|
|
P.Rob
Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
|
|
|
Sep 16, 2011 - 09:30pm PT
|
Greetings to All
It makes me smile to see the return of the Face Off. When Birgit showed up at my house with the idea of a climbers rendezvous back in 1988 I had two thoughts: the idea of the No Town climbers coming together should be fun and secondly Birgit always had a quieting, peaceful, relaxing affect on my (at the time) new born daughter Kortney, which was always appreciated. Birgit’s thought for the Face Off, in retrospect, was much like her frequent dinner parties (Birgit was & I assume still is solid 5.13 in the kitchen) – an opportunity to just chill, socialize, and have a good time. It was meant to be anti-competitive, the antithesis of what was happening in many areas with the beginning of local, national & international competitions. How simple an affair it was then with our roughly hand drawn posters – though the Tradition of the Full Moon Traverse, which was established that first night by Devon Swisher, Craig Pack & Team, appears to have endured.
Dwight & Tom: Guide looks awesome, with the poster stock paper, full color photos and water color tinted topo’s – shoot this thing has the quality of a Coffee Table Book. There are some interesting changes though: Gary Hall was left off the FA List of Mineral Magic (this was really Gary’s’ climb as he did all the hard work). The ratings of a few climbs have changed also, but I am sure this is reflective of consensus. I read a comment about competitive Fresno Climbers and ratings, but I do not believe that was so. Most of us at that time really wanted to be honest in our estimate of ratings, and wanted them to reflect how the ratings were used at other areas; J Tree, The Valley, Needles, etc. I know for myself I used two climbers whose climbs always kicked my butt to help be my yard stick – E.C. Joe & Charles Cole. Climbs like Fire Fingers in the Valley (nothing like being the height for the clip but 15’ to the right of it) and Levity’s End on Morro Rock, (did this climb in ’86 and still see it as one of my favorite climbs)to name just two were helpful reference points.
I would have liked to see more history regarding this time. When you look at how many routes were done from ’82 – ’90 I believe that this time deserved perhaps more narrative. Characters like Andy DesJarlis, who soloed on sight The Direct when it was still 5.8.( and yes his Bloody Knuckles Direct has received at least 3 repeats that I know of ). George Smith, who if there was ever a “soul climber” like the “soul surfers” it was George. When doing a FA with George you would have to almost beg him to stop and place bolts. George & Keith “Bivy” Bunny also put up a couple of A3/4’s on the mysterious Yellow Garden Wall. One climb, Silent Scream aka Terror Firma, almost saw George pancake from quite high up, stopping just short of terminal impact. George is also the climber behind the bolts placed on the road cut on the 4 Lanes proper. Bivy was Pioneering a Girdle Traverse and was probably about 5 pitches or so in when he split.
Too many names to mention, but just a few who added great value to the time; Bruce Price (more bark than bite) Greg Martinez who was probably the most natural climber I have ever witnessed. I don’t really know who climbed TT the fastest, but I am feeling confidant the Kevin Ludwig probably has the fastest down climb. I am not surprised to see Dave Douglass’s Leaping Lichen upgraded though. Dave was very talented, enigmatic guy who was no SISSY La La. Many, many others (Brenden Riordan, James Curran, Blaine Harmon, Lumberjack Jeff Harris, Barry Chambers, Leni Reeves, etc) – it really was a good time. More to say but I have indulged enough
A note on the chopping of Sudden Impact: The individual who did this, sighting that it offended his “wilderness ethic”, ended up taking his own life not much longer afterwards. My few interactions with this individual, in retrospect, reveal to me a person who was tortured and hurting. I have wondered if the motive behind removal of those bolts was more related to the hurt that became overwhelming than any ethical stance.
Dwight & Tom again thank you for the good work, and I do hope that many will be blessed by it. A few integral routes that never made it in: combining Cool Running’s with Shaky Legs - doesn’t change the rating but does make for a good time. Using English double rope technique eliminates rope drag on the 1st. pitch. The Headwall or Balls to the Don’t Laugh/ KLAM area. After doing the crux pitches of the two former routes by trending rightward you end up at the Don’t Laugh/ KLAM area. Here you have a choice from Don’t Laugh to United Express – this is a wonderful way to finish off.
Thank you all for your indulgence in enduring my diatribe. I hope all are successful, that the new Guide will be embraced by all & that this year Face Off will be the best yet. I hope all may prosper in every good way and be in good health, even as your soul prospers.
Semper Montani Liberi
Rob Newell
P.S. Leni I have a past debt that I need to reconcile with you. I attempted to PM, but I am not confidant that it reached you. If you are willing, Please let me know how best to connect with you to resolve this debt. I have always hoped the best for you and may Barry’s healing be quick and complete.
|
|
Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
|
Hey Vector, we were just discussing the wheelchair race idea yesterday hopeing then that Barry could join us...he's doing awsome by the way and we're praying for a swift road to recovery. It is an idea worthy of pursuit, however. I can visiualize that finish line at the Tollhouse store with Miss Tollhouse delivering kisses (or Mr. Tollhouse if your prefer)
Rob, great post. There are always things that could be done better in a guide in hindsight. It is important to keep these historys up to date and also to recognize that there is a lot of history that has not even been made yet. Thanks for getting the Faceoff rolling..hope to see you there....d.
|
|
P.Rob
Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
|
Thanks Dwight & please know that I have always appreciated all the hard work you have done - all the way back to bishops Peak & the Unknown Author.
My Bear dog and I were tramping around Tollhouse this last summer - ya I have always liked THouse during the summer - and I met a few youngbloods who Slalomed skated down the grade to the Market. They told me that they hit speeds in excess of 50 m.p.h. So make sure y'all got the right traction on your WC's and I'm thinking low profile chairs might be best for the hairpin turns. It would be nice to make it and perhaps become reacquainted with ya' good folks :)
Pax Vobiscum
|
|
vector
climber
|
|
|
Sep 18, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
|
Mineral Magic was done by Barry Chambers and Jeff Harris. Newell must be thinking of some other route.
Robert, if you really want to get in touch with me, google my name and you'll easily find contact info. Unfortunately that's all it will take since my name is unusual and I do a lot of community stuff.
|
|
P.Rob
Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
|
Leni did as you directed, used the numbers listed & those Answering had no familiarity or recent number for you…… so here is my
e-mail Robert.Newell@SAMC.com – hope to hear from you soon. Gary wasn’t on Mineral Magic? really?
|
|
Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2011 - 01:57am PT
|
Okay, so it's the 23rd Tollhouse Faceoff!...just remember, be there, be square, no levi's or capri's...spandex and skin however is acceptable....It's Tollhouse!
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
|
I am working on it JR but not sure,
should I order 12?
Lrgs and Meds?
|
|
vector
climber
|
|
|
Sep 24, 2011 - 01:10pm PT
|
Robert, I emailed you on the 20th and again today.
Slater and Flydude - it's great that you are making the Faceoff live again. Last year it was just 4 of us climbing in the drizzle. Sorry I'll have to miss it this year.
|
|
P.Rob
Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
|
|
|
Sep 24, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
|
Leni: replied
Slater - med or large only? Dude the last time I was a large I was like 13. At least one x or xx love for us fat guys
|
|
LuckyNeck
Trad climber
the basement of Lou's Tavern
|
|
|
Sep 26, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
|
Bump for der Faceoff.
|
|
Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2011 - 07:56pm PT
|
10 days to the Tollhouse Faceoff.Thanks to REI, MetalMark and others, we have some great raffle prizes not to mention those Tollhouse Trad faces!
Hope to wee you there.
|
|
Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
Anyone notice the skis in the event poster?
|
|
LuckyNeck
Trad climber
the basement of Lou's Tavern
|
|
Naturally. Gonna pull a repeat?
|
|
Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
Nope, just hoping someone can top it for an outrageous climbing style.
|
|
P.Rob
Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
|
|
Flyboy & Slater
I have been perusing past threads to catch up with all the activity at THouse over the past few years. I am really appreciative of the ASCA for all the good and hard work. Their web site was not explicit as to what routes were re-equipped – is there a list?
I also noticed in one of the threads an interest in adding a bolt to Bloody Knuckles Direct – though I haven’t talked with Andy for awhile (he is too busy selling petroleum to the Japanese) Greg Martinez and I run into each other fairly regularly. When I mentioned adding a bolt to Greg he just smiled, and said for it to be left as is (even though it sounds like there is a pin scar that wasn’t there before)and relayed that if folks are uncomfortable leading it they can always top rope it.
P.S. Doughnut National aka Kevin Ludwig - hope you and yours are doing well and would like to catch up with ya ..... no worries i have been clean for 16 years
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!