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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 19, 2015 - 07:16pm PT
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Mari brought one home yesterday, and I was doing my best to refrain from sarcastic comments.
Then, while she was busy in the kitchen, I sneaked into my harness and, with a dining-room chair as a lead climber, started experimenting.
The thing rocks.
Okay, I haven't actually used it on a 53-pitch Himalayan first ascent in the winter, but it is everything one could want in a belay device. Offers both ATC- or tube-style simplicity, as well as autolocking safety, belay-off-the-anchor for two separate followers, and both ATC and autolocking rappel capability.
And, unlike a gri-gri, will work with two ropes from skinny to fat.
I'm gonna get me one this weekend.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jun 19, 2015 - 08:41pm PT
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I've used one for more than two years, probably since they first came out in the US. In my opinion, it is the best thing available for belaying on half ropes, where one wants some ability to manage two strands independently. I use mine almost exclusively with 8.5mm Mammut Genesis halves. For halves it is better than the Mammut Alpine Smart and the Edelrid Megajul. There's nothing complicated about it, it just looks scary. It works like an ATC, except with assisted braking. A Grigri is more complicated and far less natural to use as well.
The main downsides are bulk, weight---it is comparable to a Grigri in those departments but of course is more functional for rappelling---and price.
I don't believe the proclaimed rope range, but I don't believe it for any of the devices out there. The middle 2/3 of the claimed range is probably a better estimate of utility, with friction problems at the small end and handling problems at the large end. I suspect that for good handling with single ropes you want to have diameters less than 10mm.
Jim Titt has done some pull tests that suggest the device can strip the sheath. I have neither read, heard, nor experienced any sign of this in the field (I know a handful of users) but it is something to think about.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Dec 14, 2017 - 05:16am PT
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At this point I've used mine for more than five years, from cragging to longer routes in the Tetons (but always with 8.5mm half ropes).
My earlier opinion stands; it is the best device for half ropes. The UKC site recently reviewed a bunch of assisted-braking gadgets (including the Gri gri) and concluded that the Click Up is the best of the lot for single ropes.
Rappelling isn't perfect in the auto stop mode; in some situations there is a bit too much friction at the start of a rappel and the rope has to be fed into the device; somewhere in midpitch (depending on the layout of the rappel) the device feeds by itself. I also have the feeling that the ropes are twisted a bit more than they would be with an ATC. CT has a work-around to keep the auto stop feature but promote easier feeding, but when I do this I get even more twisting and so don't use that method. I do like the auto stop feature however. It is very convenient and eliminates the need for rigging a prusik backup.
These downsides might be more pronounced with thicker ropes. I doubt anyone would be happy with ropes bigger than 10mm.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Dec 19, 2017 - 10:10am PT
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To someone who climbs with half ropes and is looking for an auto block belay device (I think you should and here is why), I have one for sale.
I received my new Climbing Technology Alpine Up (biner included) yesterday in the mail. Did lead belay with it for about 6 laps in the gym this morning. I do like the ATC-like rope feeding motion and its reliable auto block mechanism just like the Click-Up, as well as its versatility, which is better than Click-Up. However, there is noticeably more friction when feeding a regular worn single rope through, esp. in lowering mode with the gym's fat rope. I know I will not be climbing on half ropes any time soon, and the ropes I climb on will rarely be 9mm or less and will rarely be new. For that reason, I think I'll stick with Click-Up for the optimal belay experience.
I have an Edelrid Mega Jul and I just watched the video on Mammut Smart. Both also offer auto blocking assistance for half ropes and are versatile. However, I wouldn't recommend either because they require a thumb be in the thumb loop to lift up the device for fast payout of rope. In my mind, that is a very bad idea for many reasons.
Contact me (on Mountain Project) if you can put it to good use. $75 shipped (2 day USPS Priority mail).
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Dec 19, 2017 - 10:41am PT
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I tried my Alpine Up on fat fuzzy gym ropes and didn't even last through one session before switching back to an ATC. But once you are on sub-10mm ropes I think it is fine.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Dec 19, 2017 - 11:48am PT
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REVo dude. The Jewel IS CRAP.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Dec 19, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
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I've been looking into Revo- please elaborate.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Dec 19, 2017 - 01:38pm PT
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It barely come out and its already being recalled.
The final certification process highlighted the need for a design modification to guarantee the REVO’s performance across the widest possible spectrum of rope diameters and whilst we regret that this will delay its release, ultimately we are pleased to be working with a certification body that has helped us to realise our ambition of producing the safest belay device on the market. Wild Country will begin production of the REVO with a new supplier that specialises in precision manufacture to deliver an exceptionally high level of finish to our new innovation. We now aim to deliver the REVO for resale to commence in the winter of this year and rather than committing to a new date we will confirm a new timeline once manufacture is confirmed.
Something I don't get: it has been released, there are people that have them, but "the final certification process" has yet to be completed. Huh?
The fact of the matter is that we are all guinea pigs for new climbing technology; the manufacturers don't have the resources to really test the things out. For this reason, I wouldn't be in any kind of hurry to be one of the early adopters.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Dec 19, 2017 - 02:19pm PT
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Rgold, where are you finding the recall?
http://www.wildcountry.com/en/product-recalls
I have one and have used it a bit and really like it. Some are complaining about the locking mechanism coming unlocked during use but that doesn't effect function as the locking biner holds the device shut anyway. As I have mentioned in other forums i would bet that future versions of the repo will not have a locking mechanism as it's really just redundant and not needed.
As far as use goes it feeds way faster and smoother than a Grigri. I think for dragging it will be my go to device but for walls or long multi pith the Grigri still has a place. For big wall soloing or any type of solo roped climbing I think the Revo can't be beat as far as smoothness, it blows away my Silent Partner. As always, use back up knots.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 19, 2017 - 02:43pm PT
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we are all guinea pigs for new climbing technology
That's certainly the case when we turn from simple devices and self-reliance and abdicate personal responsibility to complex mechanical devices.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Dec 19, 2017 - 02:51pm PT
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I don't think it was recalled, I think rgold's post related to a delay in the release date issued several months ago. It may be that the device has since been released. I'm not positive so don't count on my recollection!
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Dec 19, 2017 - 02:51pm PT
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for walls or long multi pith the Grigri still has a place I'm curious... what does a Grigri offer that another device cannot replace? For example, for now, I feel that Click-Up does everything better than Grigri for what they are designed for.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Dec 19, 2017 - 02:53pm PT
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Healyj, how does using a Grigri or Revo take away from self reliance and personal responsibility ? Should we all be walking or riding bikes everywhere because cars are complex and not simple tools? I don't follow your logic though I think I see what you are trying to say.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 19, 2017 - 02:58pm PT
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If that wasn't entirely self-explanatory I'm not sure I'd be of any further assistance in clarifying it.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Dec 19, 2017 - 03:01pm PT
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I'm curious... what does a Grigri offer that another device cannot replace. For example, for now, I feel that Click-Up does everything better than Grigri for what they are designed for.
I don't know about the Click up. If you are comfortable with the Click Up then i would stay with it. I was comparing the Revo to the Grigri and I still feel the Grigri offers more flexibility of use over the Revo on walls or multi pitch. Not to mention the Revo is heavier though not by much. I feel the Grigri is better for big walls because it locks up at faster or easier if you are sitting at a belay for hours on end and your partner takes a whipper while you are making a sandwich or taking a leak. Not saying the Revo won't but it seems like more rope would feed out before it will lock up.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Dec 19, 2017 - 03:05pm PT
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Okay, thanks for the explanation! It's good to know because I was intrigued to check out a Revo someday when it gets on the market, but I'm not interested in it any more after reading your post.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Dec 19, 2017 - 03:06pm PT
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If that wasn't entirely self-explanatory I'm not sure I'd be of any further assistance in clarifying it Don't get crossed eyed from staring down your nose.
I get it, I am a crusty old climber too who started out with a hip belay and still use the hip belay from time to time but I do see a place for these new devices just like I see a place for cams over nuts in many cases.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Dec 19, 2017 - 03:14pm PT
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I'm curious... what does a Grigri offer that another device cannot replace? For example, for now, I feel that Click-Up does everything better than Grigri for what they are designed for.
I'm guessing you may not understand how to do the "new" Grigri quick-feed?
I could see not liking a Grigri if you try to use it like an ATC.
But once you learn to quick feed and use it like most dedicated, experienced sport climbers do (which is to pretty much stand there and throw out rope with the quick-feed), life is good.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 19, 2017 - 03:15pm PT
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I'm not staring down my nose, but rather at the fact such devices breed incompetence on a mass scale, but carry on...
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