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Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 10, 2011 - 01:41am PT
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Video here:
http://vimeo.com/26650084
Anybody try one of these? Looks like it works well but it looks too big, too heavy and perhaps too complex.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Aug 10, 2011 - 01:49am PT
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Link is broken.
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jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
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Aug 10, 2011 - 02:04am PT
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Uhhhh...... a little more K.I.S.S. please...?
I'll stick with my ATC Guide and Reverso. Both do everything that this thing appears to do.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 10, 2011 - 02:12am PT
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No jfs, that thing makes you lunch at belays. Does your ATC do that?
You just need to find an outlet.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 10, 2011 - 02:30am PT
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interesting
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GrahamJ
climber
In the rain
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Aug 10, 2011 - 04:49am PT
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The auto-locking rappel feature is pretty cool.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Aug 10, 2011 - 09:49am PT
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Needs more chrome and flash.
One mans opinion.
Ain't worth shit:-) Looks sort of like this:
Anyone know why Hewbolts never sold well?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 10, 2011 - 11:47am PT
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K- man that's the biggest problem with new climbers ------ they don't seem to know that you need to set up belay stations at the electric outlet. It isn't like the old days when you had to bring a generator along.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Aug 10, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
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Looks intriguing - grigri and reverso in one.
Don't know about the rest of you, but I don't like bringing both a grigri and a tube style rap device on climbs, like on HD Reg.
Wanted the grigri for short-fixing and aid belays, wanted the atc for double rope rapping in case of wx.
I know there are ways to work around either problem and bring only one device - shortfix on cloves; rap one strand with the grigri and use a pull cord - but the piece in the vid seems to bundle it all up in one.
Not sure if it'd match up to the grigri in a self-belay scenario, though... I like how the grigri is closed up tight, nothing to wedge between the ropes and the device.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 10, 2011 - 02:21pm PT
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As far as climbing is concerned, I think K.I.S.S. pretty much disappeared 30 years ago or so. A rack of nuts and stoppers, a swami belt, the rope for achoring, hips for belaying and carabiner brakes for rapping---that was simple. After that, nah, not so much.
Gri-gri's seem to be pretty universally accepted by now, so why get one's polypropylene-with-embedded-silver-fiber undies in a twist over a gadget that provides a locking belay for twin and half ropes?
A skilled and attentive belayer is a wonderful thing. Any device that can mitigate the effects of deficits in either of those qualities is at least worth a look, in my opinion.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Aug 10, 2011 - 06:19pm PT
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I still use a Sticht plate with 2 eleven mm holes and no spring, but I have to say this thing looks like the bomb! I'd love to try one out.
nick danger
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Bobert
Trad climber
boulder, Colorado
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Aug 30, 2011 - 11:35am PT
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I'd be careful with that thing. I saw something similar on Battlestar Galactica that developed consciousness and started killing people.
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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Aug 30, 2011 - 11:47am PT
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Its a double rope version of the Click Up http://www.campsaver.com/click-up
Which was a single rope similar to the WC SRC http://storrick.cnc.net/VerticalDevicesPage/Belay/MiscBelayPages/MiscBelay659.html
And Mammut came out with the Smart and Alpine Smart recently. I'm sure there are more, just going with what I remember seeing.
All various versions of the same concept, it seems. I have the single rope Mammut Smart and it works great for top roping belays, only so-so for lead belays as it doesn't give slack quickly enough for clipping.
My ATC-guide is the only thing that comes on multi-pitch, though.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 30, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
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more IDIOT shyt to further attempt to ROB and DUMB DOWN climbers...
Ah, Ron... I can just picture how you must equip yourself for climbing. Roughly woven wool clothes (or maybe animal skins you tanned yourself), leather sandals, hemp rope that you wove from plants you grew yourself, a few pebbles in your pocket to use as artificial chockstones...
I'll start taking your rants about modern climbers being wusses seriously when I see you giving up your nylon rope. Which, it seems to me, is a whole lot more hi-tech than some metal doodad. And which did more to allow climbers to climb beyond their ability than any of the "IDIOT shyt" you get so exercised about.
(Same for nylon tents, Gore-tex clothing, and sticky rubber)
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apogee
climber
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Aug 30, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
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Another silly gadget likely to be relegated to the heap of over-engineered, useless tools. Simple, elegant designs solve problems...complex gadgetry fails.
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Ry/Ry
Big Wall climber
Colorado
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Apr 18, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
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I have both the click up and the alpine up. While at first appearing complicated they are both very easy to use and there is no way you can insert the rope backwards as the devices will work both ways with a safe amount of friction unlike the gri gri and others.
The device has two modes:1 Regular belay where you must have your hand on the brake and the device has minimal friction. 2 the device is in the locked position. The belayer could let go of the brake to perform duties.
When you lock off hard or the leader falls you will see the device slip into its lock position, also an audible click confirms your in the braked position, you can belay lead with the locked mode on but it requires some teqnike like a gri gri. Otherwise unlock and belay as normal.
You may use two ropes from 8mm up to 11mm, belay two people at once much easier than any guide device from BD or PETZL. Rappelling and lowering is simple and secure even with the rope in the device backwards. THE BEST PART OF ALL IS THIS DEVICE TAKES OUT ROPE TWISTS LIKE AN ATC DOES. The SMART, and many other "assisted auto lock" devices twist the rope badly like a figure 8 does.
with a carabiner It weighs less than a gri gri sans carabiner. The way it is engineered the alpine up will never wear out from normal rope wear, but after some years you will burn threw a carabiner.
(I rap with a 7mm retrieval cord and a 9.8mm lead line threw the device at the same time, The device handles both ropes at the same time easily)
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Apr 18, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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Interesting - first and only pitch...errr post.
Ry/ry said "I have both the click up and the alpine up. While at first appearing complicated they are both very easy to use and there is no way you can insert the rope backwards as the devices will work both ways with a safe amount of friction unlike the gri gri and others.
The device has two modes:1 Regular belay where you must have your hand on the brake and the device has minimal friction. 2 the device is in the locked position. The belayer could let go of the brake to perform duties.
When you lock off hard or the leader falls you will see the device slip into its lock position, also an audible click confirms your in the braked position, you can belay lead with the locked mode on but it requires some teqnike like a gri gri. Otherwise unlock and belay as normal.
You may use two ropes from 8mm up to 11mm, belay two people at once much easier than any guide device from BD or PETZL. Rappelling and lowering is simple and secure even with the rope in the device backwards. THE BEST PART OF ALL IS THIS DEVICE TAKES OUT ROPE TWISTS LIKE AN ATC DOES. The SMART, and many other "assisted auto lock" devices twist the rope badly like a figure 8 does.
with a carabiner It weighs less than a gri gri sans carabiner. The way it is engineered the alpine up will never wear out from normal rope wear, but after some years you will burn threw a carabiner.
(I rap with a 7mm retrieval cord and a 9.8mm lead line threw the device at the same time, The device handles both ropes at the same time easily) "
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