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this just in
climber
north fork
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Apr 25, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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Mad rock hangers are easy to find cheap especially if you call them and ask for a discount if you buy in bulk. Not sure if they are the best but whatever you choose make sure it's stainless.
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Llewelyn Moss
Big Wall climber
LZ Loon
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Apr 25, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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i think the petzl stainless hangers are a lot less expensive now. having used all brands of hangers at one time or another they are pretty much all the same bent metal... but the petzl is lighter and less bulky. this is nice for exploring new routes on bigwalls or alpine walls where one might have multiple bolt setups. i'm also big fan of the petzl aluminum 12kn hangers as well, drilled out to fit a buttonhead or short bolt, superlight, but is pricey. a good hanger for a minimal bc freeclimbing kit as well. both a good deal for specific purposes.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 25, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
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After the failure of the Kong aluminum hangers at Index, I've not given any more thought to using an aluminum hanger again.
I find the Petzl hangers a bit sharp. They can really score a carabiner.
Metolious are light (and maybe lighter than Petzl's). Great finish too. And, can be had pre-painted.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Apr 25, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
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The Petzls were getting sharper and sharper (kind of like inner edge burrs) over the 2003-2009 time frame (we complained) - but the newer batches (2010 and on) are super smooth.
One note that many don't realize - all Petzl hangers are 316ss (marine grade stainless), while most other hangers are 304 stainless. Not that it matters for most western US climbing...
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 25, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
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I don't mind the Mad Rock Sentinel's either. Anyone got a good source on them? Used to be had for around a buck per. Price of stainless is up...now, they're kinda spendy.
Some folks don't like the way they clip (ie, that flange hangs up on some biners I guess). They aren't shiny either, which is good, and, they seem to take a paint job fairly nicely.
Good to know on the Petzl's, Greg. Thanks.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 28, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
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CLimb Tech out of Austin has some nice ones for $2.25. Similar to a Metolius hanger.
Just got some of their hangers.
Bit more similar in geometry to a Petzl hanger.
These are purportedly stainless, but, they are not 300 series stainless steel. If anyone knows these hangers, or, someone at Climb Tech who knows, please let me know what material these are. I've bought similar hangers in Europe that weren't 300 series stainless, but, were still stainless and I was fine with them. Also, I'd be curious to know who/where they were fabricated.
Thanks for any help.
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 28, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
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Brian,
Never knew of a stainless steel hanger to be anything other than 304 (most common) or 316 (less common, and more corrosion resistance with higher cost).
How do you know the ClimbTech and Euro hangers are not 300 series SS?
Seems like that would be difficult to determine without lab analysis.
Are you just guessing by a quick check with a magnet?
300 series is generally non-magnetic, however, it can become magnetic by cold working. The non-magnetic sheet metal is stamped (cut), bent and tumbled to create the finished hanger. That might make them magnetic to some degree, particularly 304 SS.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 29, 2011 - 12:21am PT
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Yeah, magnet test.
They stick to a magnet exactly like my kitchen utensils. Exactly. And also exactly like the 400 series hangers I got in Arco Italy.
I've handled gobs of 303/304 and 316 hangers and bolts. These aren't 300 series.
They're well made, nicely tumbled and no doubt were done by an outfit who knew what they were doing.
I have a fairly high end rare earth magnet. I can barely pull these hangers off the magnet. In fact, I just clipped 11 old school biners onto the hanger, and, hung it off the magnet. A 300 series stainless hanger won't stay stuck at all. Mild attraction.
That said, they don't look like plated carbon steel hangers, either.
I could get one tested to make sure. But, I wonder if someone knows...
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 29, 2011 - 01:16pm PT
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Bump to the front page for the Friday crew...
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 30, 2011 - 10:18am PT
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I got a batch of 3.5x 1/2" 5 piece bolts for xmass that are plated stell Not SS. Normally i only use SS but wondering is these would be ok to use with metelious rap anchors here in the NE since they are 1/2in?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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You have a route called "xmass"? Ha ha...
Well, they aren't stainless, and, in the more wetish right coast I'd think stainless would be the way.
Older Metolius rap hangers were 1018 pig iron. Once you pull a rope through them they rust like the dickin's.
I think they're newer stuff is 4340 or 4130? Can't remember (and too lazy to look it up right now).
I'd pass, m'self.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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I got a batch of 3.5x 1/2" 5 piece bolts for xmass that are plated stell Not SS. Normally i only use SS but wondering is these would be ok to use with metelious rap anchors here in the NE since they are 1/2in? Not good for the NE, they will rust quickly. They would be OK in soft desert sandstone or other porous rock in desert areas - since the water evaporates out through the rock.
They don't even make 1/2" 5-piece in stainless in that length (actually 3.75"), just in 2.75" and 4.75", so if you do decide to get the same bolt type in stainless you will have to decide on the length.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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The reason that i ask is that I know the smaller plated stuff is no good here in the NE but wondered if 1/2 in was beefy enough to withstand the rust? @ rumny none of the glue ins are SS They are all galvanized threaded eye bolts from fastenal. They hold up perfectly. I do understand that there is no way for water to get in there with a glue in.
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geirw
Trad climber
norway
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May 10, 2011 - 04:39pm PT
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wheres the best price on ss hangers today guys?
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Matt M
Trad climber
Alamo City
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Jul 19, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
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Just got word from Climb Tech. They have plenty in stock despite what their web site shows. Info about them...
"These are polished 400 series SS and test to
over 7200lbf which would be over 32kN. They are made from 400 series
because they are stronger than that of 300 series."
 climb tech
Someone else pull tested one to a similar spec.
These or the Fixe sale ate the best deals going right now.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jul 20, 2011 - 11:21am PT
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Yeah, just got a few (!) more of them m'self from Climb Tech. Nice.
Interesting failure compared to 300 series. They don't stretch, but, rather "snap".
I need to bust a few more. We broke the 10mm fixturing pin in the first go round on the hanger we broke. Caused it to break at a lower value, methinks. Plenty strong. Nice finish.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Jul 20, 2011 - 01:45pm PT
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Why isn't the question which is the best bolt hanger,
instead of what is the best deal on bolt hangers?
If you can't afford quality, don't put up the route.
edit: PS the mechanisim that accelerates oxidation between unlike metals is electolysis...
if one were seeking to do it right for those that follow, all components, bolt, and hanger, would be stainless, and all, yes in granite even, would be 1/2 inch... being proud of hand drilled holes in 2011, oh there i go again, just put something in that you wouldn't mind you kid falling on in 15 years.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jul 20, 2011 - 02:10pm PT
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Ed, why don't you tell us what the "best" bolt hanger is then?
Thanks in advance.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 20, 2011 - 02:14pm PT
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Seriously. If there is truly a substandard hanger currently on the market than I'm all ears. Otherwise, a hanger is a hanger as far as I'm concerned, metal notwithstanding.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Jul 20, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
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ahh Brian,
i think you are the better one to judge current offerings, fact is my knowledge is not current on what is offered.
the over-obvious restated:
considering hangers should be all about resistance to weathering/electrolysis, and less about cheap...
i like metolius' idea of powder coating hangers.
as far as shape goes for hangers on overhanging routes, a direct pull on the anchor rather than a levered one is the choice.
i would be wary of a hanger that is so hard that it fails without first deforming, remembering our episodes with the old Leper hangers.
and there is the stuff that seemingly no one speaks of:
2 bolts placed at the top and bottom of the route, with nothing in-between, some kind of ego driven manhood, "bold" aka stupid, route marking system ie the "Kid" in the meadows,, if you want to be bold, go solo a route, but if you are going to "protect" a route, i still believe that if you are drillin, you have the responsibility to protect a route as if you were at your max on that particular grade. and that you should know enough to protect as if you had a brain, ie, so that Jan McCollum, and Randy Hankins could both make all the clips...with belay bolts no closer than 11 diameters apart, and, no hangers on bulges where my partner might leave skin and hair... it is no fun taking your climbing partner's head hair, skin, and blood, off a stupidly placed bolt.
The best hanger is one well placed. the rest i leave up to you.
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