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Kevin Reichenthaler
Boulder climber
ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2011 - 08:15pm PT
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Ron, that looks like Ironman, the route i did was through the wash and to the right of the Anabel. According to one of the locals(his name is Lindsey)no one has done it in years after most of the knobs fell off. Ive been climbing there long enough to know everything has been done before and was surprised to hear that that particular line was undone. Ive never seen it done and its not listed in the socal bouldering guide.
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Byran
climber
Merced, CA
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This may be more of an epistomological issue than anything. Some of you may have heard of the paradox of the patched sock. Start with a sock that gets patched and patched again, etc., until it's all patches. Same sock?
If it's true that the cells in your body are constantly dividing and dieing so that 7 years from now you will be made up of completely different cells than you are today:
Does that make you a different person?
Can 'the new me' claim an onsight on all those routes 'the old me' fell off 7 years ago?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Some of you may have heard of the paradox of the patched sock. Start with a sock that gets patched and patched again, etc., until it's all patches. Same sock?
How about the paradox of the human body? Start with a young person. The cells slowly get replaced over the years (except some brain cells we kill off through various means) until its all (mostly) new cells. Same person?
[Edited to say Bryan said it better than I (and sooner).]
The Beach is not the case of the entire face (or even all the holds) falling off. Rather, anywhere from one or two to several holds have come off or been modified. Is it a different route? I really don't know. But, over the years this has occurred repeatedly as a few holds may break.
No matter the answer, it is nice to see people climbing and trying these old/new/abandoned problems.
As a washed up never was been, my hat is off to you!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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This thread needs more photos, mateys. Maybe even some pirate photos, arrrrgh!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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You wish is my command...
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Kevin R.,
What the f*#k does it even matter?
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Any grade V's down there at the cove....?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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"FA" really means First Recorded Ascent. If no one is able to provide any record of the route being done before, then its a FA.
yes, unless there is a common community of climbers that go back several generations with no recorded ascent information, say for the reason that maybe holds break, tides go up and down, etc. and especially in a small area where all the routes are very clearly obviously seen by all passersby.
good on the OP for firing
many a misspent afternoon were frittered away watching guys like Dr. F and Dan Nguyen firing problem after slippery problem. Me, I could barely do the cave problem on the right or the easy variant next to the stairs. Fortunately the ocean was always nearby for a quick dip.
oh, and that big drilled pocket in the big cave on the far left, f*#ked up!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, kevin.... thanks for sharing about your climb...
sounds like it was very specia to you... :)
keep up the love of the sport...
as you can see the folks here all had the history that you needed...
FA wise, etc.... this should fill in all your wondering...
also--i don't remember who posted the pics, but
thanks for the nice beach pics and the pirates cove...
thanks to all the climbers for ther FA history, i had never heard of this spot, and i was interesting to see all the names mentioned...
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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I smell a Troll; this area has been out climbed years ago, if Craig Fry didn’t
Climb it some one else did!
Some old crapy photos, some one asked for more?
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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What most said before Kevin......If Craig Fry had'nt climbed it out Rob Mulligan did.
In fact I was around and floundering while guys like Lihn Nyguyen, Rob Mulligan, Hans Florine an Troy Mayer were rippin' it up.
I've seen a few variations done by others....I could never commit.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Yeee haw, first ascents rule!!!
It sounds like you are climbing strong dude.
Here is one from ~1973-4 ish.
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