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Kevin Reichenthaler
Boulder climber
ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 6, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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I was told that I nabbed an fa down at pirates cove in Corona Del Mar Ca. It is the direct version of the cave route Annabel and goes straight up instead of traversing to the left. if anyone has any info on the route being done before or it being an actual first ascent it would be much appreciated
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Spraying right out of the gate, eh? ;)
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MisterE
Social climber
MEEP MEEP
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Yar, 'tis Pirates Cove, me Swab...
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Stoked, I remember my first.....
Let's see a pic.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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I was told that ... I am a troll.
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dustonian
climber
RRG
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no one cares. why do you?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Pirates Cove has been climbed on since Paleolithic times;........every possible combination, variation, , sit down, contrived, ......everything possible has been climbed decades ago......mostly by Matt Cox, Dave Evans, and this other guy;...I can't remember his name;.....Dave Evan's belayer on Figures on a Landscape.....that guy.....keep on crankin'.......(That beach sandstone is slimy;.....how can anyone climb on it...let alone WANT to climb on it....and that Anabelle Cave smell like pee....)......
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Troll, or not. That is the question? I'll bite...
Pirate's Cove was largely developed in 1973--almost 40 years ago. Principal climbers included Mike Graham, Rick Accomazzo, Tobin Sorenson, Dave Evans, Randy Vogel, John Long, Matt Cox, John Bachar, and most of the other Stonemasters. Hell, even Hot Henry made a visit there! I lived about three blocks from there for about a year. Everyone who visited Ski Mart also made trip to the Beach back then.
Annabelle has seen probably every variation imaginable, that being the Decade of the Elimiinates. I recall Graham snagged the first direct on Annable, and many variations followed. E-mail him for details.
Without a continuity of climbers in a bouldering area, problems get reinvented every era. My guess... Congratulations on rediscovering a oldie but boldie!
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Kevin Reichenthaler
Boulder climber
ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2011 - 04:24pm PT
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im not spraying i just want to know if its an fa. if not im still pysched that i finshed the route
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I doubt it. I pretty much lived there back in the early 80s and I don't think there was anything that didn't get done, and that was after everything was already done back in the 70s. You could check out a copy of the old Hunk Guide if you can find one, though even that didn't map every conceivable variation.
I don't think the question is whether you have an FA; it's whether the collective memory of the folks who climb there now (sadly not me) know enough of the history of the place to even opine if it's an FA. In other words, I don't think you're going to get your question answered.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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I could never do a darn thing there...slippery, sandy...
Does help to get a tour from a local.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Does yer route look similar to the pictured problem on the left?
Peace
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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I'll say my initial reaction is "It's extremely doubtful."
But, you have to temper that with the understanding that Pirates Cove (or simply "The Beach") is in a constant state of change. Holds break and new ones are unearthed (or more likely "carved").
So, it could be "new" and "old" at the same time. But, ultimately, no one is really keeping track of all the variations done over the years (many of which have fallen into obscurity -- or simply fallen down).
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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dude, don't ya know that i'm the the best climber on this site, and so much better than you. I totally ripped the sh#t out of that route.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Friend,
Re-read my post carefully, as it says pretty much what you are about how the problems at the Beach are always in flux.
But, does this mean that there are dozens of new problems that just happen to cover terrain previously covered by older (and possibly defunct) problems?
That would not seem to be the norm in the bouldering & climbing world.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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But, does this mean that there are dozens of new problems that just happen to cover terrain previously covered by older (and possibly defunct) problems?
That would not seem to be the norm in the bouldering & climbing world.
Soft sandstone routes on the beach that erode away mostly or completely in a few years are not the norm in the bouldering & climbing world. What was there 30 years ago is not what is there today. If what is there are not new problems, than what are they? To claim them as old existing problems is laughable.
If most of the handholds are different and most of the footholds are different, it's certainly not the same route.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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This may be more of an epistomological issue than anything. Some of you may have heard of the paradox of the patched sock. Start with a sock that gets patched and patched again, etc., until it's all patches. Same sock?
Seems like we may be dealing with a similar fact pattern here. Sure it might be new. It might not be. Where do you draw the line? Same problem, just different?
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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"FA" really means First Recorded Ascent. If no one is able to provide any record of the route being done before, then its a FA.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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"Start with a sock that gets patched and patched again, etc., until it's all patches. Same sock?"
If you have as sock, or a house, and keep repairing it, it keeps it's same structure, and in fact you are intervening to PRESERVE the integrity of the original unit and keep it the same sock serving the same function.
This is different from when a route completely falls down or is eroded away. What makes a climb is its holds and moves. If those are gone, the climb is gone.
If instead of allowing the route eroding or falling away, you were to go the route every time a piece wore off and glue sand back on so that there was no change, then your sock analogy would hold true. Did anyone do that here?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Great Kevin. It would seem you are both young and new here and this is actually your first thread? Sorry it's already so rough; I like your enthusiasm and most would too. Sometimes the group can be formidable.
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