Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
|
This is some great stuff, seeing some ones listed again and again here.
F10, buddy, its one thing for me to have done these in the distant past, its another for me to convince a rookie to follow me around on them once again. (and for me to nut-up and get back on the sharp end, tbph!)
Thanks all!
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 08:27pm PT
|
Bluey-
Yeah, I agree that Double Dip is fun. A short but high quality climb.
|
|
Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2011 - 08:39pm PT
|
BTW: For those with more than a single recommendation in the thread (at least for ones mentioned in list fashion and not within a body of text), so far I come up with a down and dirty list of 14:
Recommendations /Route
4 Mental Physics
4 White Lightning
3 Dappled Mare
3 Double Cross
3 The Eye
3 Sail Away
2 Breakfast of Champions
2 Dogleg
2 Hands off
2 Likety Splits
2 Mikes Books
2 SW Corner Headstone
2 Toe Jam
2 Walk on the Wild Side
I think this ought to set me up for the weekend.
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 08:43pm PT
|
best to stack up the ones that are close together:
Mikes books
The flake
Double Cross
Toe Jam
Dogleg
are all within a 2 minute walk of each other.
Bussonier and Hands off are also quite close
You could also do a good day at hemingway
white lightning
dung fu
Poodlesby
Feltonian physics
and then walk up to Dairy Queen to hit
Scrumdillumsious
Frosty Cone
one more 5.7 up there...
And if you're going to do the SW corner on the headstone, might as well do Cryptic, the 5.8 on the right.
Walk on the wild side is worth its own trip out to do that, but you could do Right On 5.5 while you're there.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
|
I'd add Double Dip, but that's just me. After that, you can prolly get up the nearby R.A.F.
|
|
froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
|
Personally, I'd take Dogleg of that list (I find the bottom pretty grovelly) and add Overhang Bypass.
|
|
Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
|
That SW Corner of Headstone really messes with my head. For some reason I find it hard for the grade.
|
|
Bad Climber
climber
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 08:49pm PT
|
Good lists here. Some of my choices:
The Flake
Dappled Mare
The Dogleg cracks
Nobody Walks in LA (5.9)
Sail Away
The Eye
Headstone the easy way
Toe Jam
BAd
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 08:49pm PT
|
You actually need to add "Stichter Quits"/"Black Tide" to your list with a combined 4 recommendations. My comments were in lieu of a recommendation, but definitely well worth doing.
|
|
tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
|
mental physics
headstone
the bong
stitcher quits (formerly black tide)
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
|
The thing about Mental Physics is that it's a 45 minute approach if you get it right, and even so there is often a line. Not much else out there at the grade too. A fine 5.7 crack, but not worth half a day in my opinion. There are two nice 5.9s to it's left if you're up to it.
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 09:01pm PT
|
The Bong really looks cool! Everytime I was planning on doing it, there semed to be something like an army waiting for the climb....
|
|
Byran
climber
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 09:34pm PT
|
The thing about Mental Physics is that it's a 45 minute approach if you get it right, and even so there is often a line. Not much else out there at the grade too. A fine 5.7 crack, but not worth half a day in my opinion. There are two nice 5.9s to it's left if you're up to it.
The approach is one of the best things about the climb. After all, the roped climbing in Joshua Tree is only second rate, but the scrambling is world class.
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
|
Scrambling in Josh sure is fun, but you don't need to haul your rope and rack 45 minutes out for one 90 foot climb... in my opinion.
|
|
Johnny K.
Mountain climber
Southern,California
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
|
Most have already been mentioned,so ill just add the cranny 5.8 at trashcan rock.Park your car and walk 40 feet approach.First crag formation from the west entrance.Great warm up,well protected,easy and fun!
|
|
crøtch
climber
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 09:57pm PT
|
39 Steps on the way out to Mental Physics is a nice easy climb. Breakfast of Champions is in the neighborhood too.
|
|
Brian
climber
California
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
|
Holy moly! All these posts and no one has mentioned Fote Hog?!
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
|
Give the Sail Away, Walk on the Wild Side, Mental Physics and Double Cross a break;...try something new;...Here's the list of the best easy (5.8 and under) sport climbs at Joshua Tree;......some new classics or bunk......best find out for yourselves........
Sexy Grandma 5.8+
SW Corner Headstone 5.6/5.7
Cryptic 5.7/5.8
The Praying Monkey 5.4
Pinky and the Brain 5.8
Bird Eating Spider 5.8
Love Bubbles 5.7
Waterbabies 5.8
Asian Fever 5.7
Binder 5.8
Keep the Worm Firm 5.6
Mr. Simpkinton 5.8
Dig For Fire 5.8
If you are unfamiliar with these climbs;.....well;...get busy....
|
|
can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
|
Fotehog is a good 5.6
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
|
That SW Corner of Headstone really messes with my head. For some reason I find it hard for the grade.
Yep, the exposure is what makes it great for the grade. Awesome route. Never led it, just followed it. Same with Cyptic. The rap is kinda heady too!
Jtree really is unique.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!