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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Dec 30, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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well done. I like the history section.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Wow, that is a nice link. Nice job!
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tweety
Trad climber
Bratislava
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Apr 22, 2010 - 01:37am PT
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thank you for the topo, it looks very nice! We are going to Wawona this weekend. I am looking on the picture of the Dome with labeled routes and then on the topo drawing but I do not understand the rating a little bit. For example, 'Sum Sum Riches' is 5.7, but on the Blue Moon topo it looks like in the third pitch there are options: 5.9 (Lunar), 10d var, 5.10c or 5.9 A0. According to it, the 'Sum Sum Riches' and 'The Feast' should be rated 5.9. Also, the yellow route #16 which goes through 5.10c passage should be rated as 5.10c and not 5.10a. Or did I missed something?
Thank you,
Jana
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 22, 2010 - 02:09am PT
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Jana,
Good points - I noticed the same things - that there is a "gap" between the lower and upper pitches of both Sum Sum Riches and The Feast which is 5.9 A0 or harder, so if you climbed from bottom or top, the rating is 5.9 A0, 5.10c or harder. The middle pitch L3 of Lunar Eclipse is 5.11 with a 5.9 start, so that is not a 5.9 connection option (on the topo it looks like "11n").
The Feast pitch F4 is 5.6, then pitch F5 starts out as 5.7, but has 5.10b after it connects with Dark Side. So it's a moderate 1+ pitches but a harder approach and finish.
So the options under 5.9 climbable from the ground would be:
 The Feast p1-2 5.8
Sum Sum Riches p1 5.7 or 5.8
Broke Bloke p1-2 5.8
If you can do 5.9 and don't mind doing A0, you can climb to the top in several ways.
Route #16 (Fancy Feets, 40' variation) says 5.10a on both topo and overlay photo, as far as I can tell, I don't see a problem with that.
There is that same color line higher on the topo which is what I call Blue Moon p3 L var. 5.10d. If that upper line color was changed, that would fix the confusion, I think. Maybe Erik was short on space for the legend to label it.
Here's the route list as I understand it:
Wawona Dome - North Wall
58. Chulook 5.9, RFC, 3p
59. Boulevard of Dreams 5.8, bolted face, 3p
60. Miwok 5.7, RFC, 3p
61. Dike Hike 5.8, 2p, p1 5.8 8x .75 cam 35m, p2 5.5 R no crack for anchor
Wawona Dome
62. Hazy Days 5.10a, 4p
63. Welcome to Wawona 5.9, 4p
64. Hollow Wallow 5.7, 100' slab, down and R from Hazy Days
65. un WD a 5.10-, 2p, p1 5.10-, p2 5.8, pro to 5"
66. Fear of the Dark 5.11b, arete, gear to #1 Camalot, 6x, 100'
67. un WD c 5.10a, 2p, p1 5.10a, p2 5.8 (same as un WD a), p1 5.9+ to FotD anchor
68. Mostly Harmless 5.10a/b, pro to .75 camalot, 7x, fp, 2x anchor/rap
69. pr. 5.10-, can TR off anchors of Mostly Harmless with directional
70. Mixed Messages 5.10d, 2p, p1 5.9 crack to 2 mantles, p2 L thin, steep corner to Tork slot
71. Garden Party 5.9/5.10-, branches L from Cream of the Crop p1, crack pro
72. Cream of the Crop 5.11a, 3p, p1: 5.11a thin RFC, p2: 5.11a 11x, p3: easy
73. Meet the New Boss 5.11-, 2p, p1: 5.11- 12x, gear, p2: dyno over roof, joins FCF
74. Fatty Can't Fit 5.10b, 3p, p1: start on MtNB, traverse R on ramp (2x anchor)
p2: up black streak to hole, 12x, nut, slings, p3: through hole/cave then R/up
75. Move Over Rover 5.11-, 8x, small cam, direct to FCF p1 anchor.
76. The Hole Enchilada 5.11-, link MOR + FCF p2 w/ 70m rope
77. un WD i 5.10
78. Dark Side of the Moon 5.10d, 5p
79. Blue Moon 5.10c, 8p
80. Blue Moon p3 L var. 5.10d, 4x
81. Lunar Eclipse 5.11d, 6p, aka Luna Negre?
82. The Feast p1-2 5.8, 2p
83. The Feast (full) 5.10c, join Blue Moon, then connect L to Dark Side dike
84. Fancy Feets 5.10a, 4x, 40' var to The Feast
85. Sum Sum Riches p1 5.7, topo says 5.8
86. Sum Sum Riches (full) 5.10c, join The Feast, Blue Moon, 5.8 direct finish
87. Jesus on the Main Line 5.9, L start to Broke Bloke
88. Broke Bloke 5.10c, 5p, 60m ropes, p1-2: 5.8, p5: 5.7, crosses Blue Moon
89. Bird in Flight 5.11c, 7p, R of Blue Moon, directly to long roof
90. On the Anvil 5.12a/b, 2p
91. Moonshot 5.10c A1, 6p
92. Bark at the Moon 5.10b, 5p
All the above is my "armchair summary" of what Erik and Jeff have posted to this thread. I haven't climbed there myself.
[Edit:] now includes Dike Hike - thanks, Jeff! :-)
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 22, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
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Jana,
FYI, Wawona Dome is covered in snow. Not sure if you had plans to climb up there this weekend?
Jeff
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 22, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
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Clint,
Here's another one to add to your list
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 22, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
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Jeff, is there no protection for the belay at the top of p2? or just that there is no rap station?
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 22, 2010 - 03:00pm PT
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There is no protection, I down climbed the pitch. Maybe 5.5.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Apr 22, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
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What does the obvious left leaning crack/seam go at?
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 22, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
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Nate, dont you have work to do?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 22, 2010 - 03:25pm PT
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Mucci wrote
A truly wonderful place indeed, no noise, people or trash.
What a lie - I was there with mucci so there was noise (us) and people (us) and trash (we've both been called PWT so I think we count there too!)
Tork,
Shouldn't you be climbing or something?
kev
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 22, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
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Tork,
You up for visitors this weekend?
kev
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 22, 2010 - 03:36pm PT
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Kev, who do you have in mind?
You know your welcome anytime. Can't promise I will have time off though.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 22, 2010 - 03:38pm PT
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And yes Kev, I should be climbing. But it just keeps raining and snowing. Wo Dome won't be dry for a while. Hell Parkline is even wet.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Apr 22, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
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Nate, dont you have work to do?
Ouch. Dreaming 'bout climbing is work too ya know. Just don't tell my boss.
I think I'll now hafta just jet on up there and work on that route...
'cept your approach is a little shorter than mine.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 22, 2010 - 04:07pm PT
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Nate, come on out, been wanting to climb with ya. I will even let you have the FA of the crack you were asking about. But that means your carrying the drill.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 22, 2010 - 04:07pm PT
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Oh yeah, I forgot about all that whimpering I was doing falling out of that wyde crack!
Nothing like puking while all of your friends are watching, laughing, and slandering! HAHAH!
Good times!
I like how Jeff's method of descent is "Downclimbing". Talk about a "Green" Approach!
Mucci
Edit: Earplugs-check.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Apr 22, 2010 - 04:32pm PT
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Thanks Tork. Probably still a month or more until I can get out to climb, but hopefully later this season we can hook up somewhere.
And why would I need to carry a drill on a crack with an established downclimb? I suppose you know something I don't! :)
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 22, 2010 - 04:40pm PT
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Nate, you won't need to carry a rope either.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!