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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 29, 2009 - 02:05am PT
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I worked at the Wawona Hotel for the last three years, just moving back to the Valley last June. The climbing on Wawona Dome is outrageously fun, in a cool spot, and pretty accessible most of the year. With the help of many friends I put together a set of webpages to show some of the climbs up there. A couple small, mostly toprope, crags are also shown on the approach map.
check it out:
http://www.wawona.yosemiteexplorer.com
(I think there will eventually be a link under the rockclimbing section of the Yosemiteexplorer.com website that says Wawona climbs).
The Blue Moon topo might be a little blurry at first but if you click on it it shows a bigger version.
you can also download the pdf here:
http://cid-ac7b92e4a1d5c148.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Blue%20Moon%20Corrected-2.pdf
many thanks to Tom Lambert for hosting the site, to my ex-girlfriend Cher Albrecht who made the awesome approach and route map, and to Spaz for teaching me the iweb.
cheers
e
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 29, 2009 - 02:18am PT
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Well done Eric
Well done.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 29, 2009 - 02:23am PT
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neat stuff
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Cpt0bvi0u5
Trad climber
Merced CA
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Dec 29, 2009 - 05:29am PT
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good stuff mate
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Dec 29, 2009 - 11:56am PT
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Nice job Eric!
Jeff
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Dec 29, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
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Very nice work! That is all one needs to climb there... no more and no less... just the way it should be.
I did a bunch of climbing there in the past and should get up there again since my friend is the fire captain there and we have a free house to stay in! This summer for sure!
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
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Thanks. Fun spot. Git sum!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 29, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
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Thanks for the effort!
A truly wonderful place indeed, no noise, people or trash.
World class rock!
Mucci
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hungry man
Trad climber
around
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Dec 29, 2009 - 03:47pm PT
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Wow, There are routes up pretty much every place I have wondered about! Especially that big dike at the top, and straight up the big roof. Nice job, thanks!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Dec 29, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
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Eric, I just noticed you have 10c on Blue Moon?? Big down grade from Spencers 11b.
Jeff
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Dec 29, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
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Thought I would add a bit of info for routes 1-10 on Erics photo/topo
1- 2 pitches, p1 10-, p2 5.8, pro to #5 camalot(old), walk off or rap Fatty Can't fit
2- Fear of the Dark 5.11, 1 pitch, pro: small rack to a #1 camalot and about 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap 100'
routes 2,3&4 cab be seen in the second photo
3- 2 long pitches to the top or end the first pitch at the anchor of Fear of the Dark.(9+ if you end at FotD anchor) pro: small to #3 camalot(may want a bigger cam)p2 is the same as route 1
4- Mostly Harmless 10a/b, 1 pitch, pro to .75 camalot, 1fp, about 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap
5- 10- so far (unfinished) Can tr off the Anchors of mostly harmless with a directional
6-Mixed Messages 2 pitches, P1 up 5.9 crack to knobs to a few thin moves and two mantles to a 2 bolt belay, P2, left up thin crack, left again into a steep corner then up through the wide slot(The Tork Slot)
to a 2 bolt belay/rap, pro:to #3 camalot, 8 or 9 bolts, 2 bolt anhor/rap stations, 3 raps w/60m rope(swing over to Mostly Harmless for last rap
7- Garden Party 10- or 5.9, 1p, start on Cream of the Crop then keep climbingup and left by switching cracks then up on knobs to the first anchor or continue up(10-) past bolts to a higher ledge and anchor/rap(w/60m you will need to do an easy downclimb)pro to #2 camalot w/extra hand and finger size
8- Cream of the Crop 3 pitches, P1 10+, up the beautiful rf corner then right past 2 bolts under roof then up corner to ledge w/2 bolt anchor, pro: thin to #2 camalot w/extea finger size. P2 11- right and up, mostly following bolts to 2 bolt anchor/rap, small rack to a # 2 camalot. P3 up past a few bolts to the top and 2 bolt anchor rap. walk off or rap w/2 ropes or rap Fatty Can't Fit with 1 60
9- Meet the New Boss 2 pitches, P1 11-, start on Fatty Can't Fit but continue going up at the traverse to a 2 bolt anchor/rap station, a dozen or so bolts and a small rack, P2 continues up over the roof above( dyno to knob) then up past bolts to a ledge then right to the second belay of Fatty Can't Fit, bolts and pro to #2 camalot
10- Move over Rover(Fatty Can't Fit direct or The Hole Enchilada if you link with the 2nd pitch of Fatty to the hole)11-. 8 bolts and a small cam to a 2 bolt anchor/rap OR keep going for a full 70m pitch to the 2nd anchor of Fatty, lots of draws and slings plus a light rack to 1"
Fatty Can,t Fit 10b, 3 pitches, start where Eric's topo shows #9, at the ramp traverse right to #10 at a 2 bolt anchor, a few bolts and a light rack. P2 up black streak to the hole, a dozen or so bolts, bring a few slings to prevent drag plus one for knob tye off and a good nut placement in a horizontal. P3 goes through the hole/cave then right and up to the top to a 2 bolt anchor/rap. Pro to #2 camalot and a few bolts. Can rap w/1 60
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
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Cool stuff Jeff!
I put a little something in the history about the Blue Moon pitch being harder before.
cheers
e
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 29, 2009 - 11:35pm PT
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Fantastic;..thank you;....super topo climbers come thru again....
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Dec 30, 2009 - 12:23am PT
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Sweet, I just drove up to that JW church camp up that long road to get a better view. I gotta hit that place. Thank you for sharing info.
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jsj
climber
Boulder
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Dec 30, 2009 - 01:48am PT
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Great site, thank you!
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 30, 2009 - 02:17am PT
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Eric that is Awesome info and photos bro! I've been wanting to figure out the rest of the scoop on these for years!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 30, 2009 - 06:13am PT
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Good stuff, Jeff - thanks for sharing all your routes!
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 30, 2009 - 07:59pm PT
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Wow this got lost off page 1 already. Keep posting!
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Sanjan
Social climber
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Dec 30, 2009 - 09:00pm PT
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That dikey slab between 13 and 20 looks pretty good - any projects in there ?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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nice overlay
Let us know!