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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
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We'll get nathan to wear some white painters pants up there for ya :)
edit: Duh it was pretty quiet that day because of the rain earlier. That would be an amazing shot.
Hey Hamish where can i buy some tree climbing gear?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Pacific Arborist Supplies, N. Van
If it's just for the odd use, I can loan you what you need. If it's for work, best to buy new.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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It's surprising how many people don't find the no-hands rest below the crux of the first pitch of Apron Strings. Rather handy.
I may have done the second FA of it, in September 1974, with Len. Certainly an early one. At the time, there were three or four fixed pins at key locations - but then, we only had stoppers and hexes otherwise.
My photo of the Split Pillar was artfully framed by the trees, IMHO. It's about as arty as I get.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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There's a great shot of Paul Cordy climbing The Shadow pitch [12d] on U Wall, on the cover of the latest Gripped maggie. Nothing for his hands, and less for his feet. Impressive!
Anyone know Paul? Is he a local?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Is Sunday Whites the arête Hamish? I've never seen a soul on it.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Yup, it's that beauty arete in the pic. Gotta try it. 2 pitches, second one is pretty easy and takes you to the top of the flake @ the Merci-Me belay. First pitch is quite real.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Awesome photos guys! Thanks! Sunday whites is the arête of the second pitch of the flake??
Cool feature. MH2, please enlighten us as to the significance of the yin/yang reference & it's relevance to rainy Squamish weather???
Big Bike! Nice to see u in boulders, you'll get strong as hell if u keep going in there for sure, especially with that wingspan. Just stay away from the bunchy problems & seek the ones with big reaches & it will keep it fun!
So I couldn't tell from your story since u left us hanging, but did Kyle send those pitches??
The first couple pieces off the belay went pretty well, but he was feeling it big time by the time he got to the first good rest..
and then???!
Not to rub it in but I was lucky enough to get to climb some steep, dry limestone on the island the past few days & subsequently feel like I was sack beaten & am ok with a few days of rain right now, or at least until my back loosens up & the bruises on my thighs heal. A worthy option when things suck around here as they tend to this time of year & you want to totally trash yourself & get pumped.
Edit- just saw Hamish clarification of sunday whites, looks rad.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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So when you blow it on Sunday Whites do you pitch off the arete and dangle in space? Am i gonna die?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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No, not as long as the belayer is attentive.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Ok, Luc isn't belaying me then. He plays with his fanny pack while belaying too much.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Fanny pack?? Like what the bikers wear(road & mtn)?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2012 - 04:30am PT
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HaHaHaHaHa! Ya a fanny pack. He likes it because it's small and easily accessible, and it is very practical but just looks so gay ;) lol!!
Ok maybe I did leave you hanging a bit.. I thought I spoiled it though when I said he had a good send day. :) As mh2 said he was lookin good and got the onsight on Exasperator as one pitch without clipping p1 anchors.
He also onsighted both pitches of Apron Strings. He was super stoked on both climbs and proclaimed them both to be "the best climbs ever!!"
This one is for MarkR or anyone that has ever suffered a major injury as a result of a climbing accident.
I'm pretty sure I've kinda told this one or alluded to it several times. About ten years ago when we were starting out, Kyle had a near decking of his own on Mosquito 5.8. I had advised him to clip the piece under the roof long and we didn't have many short slings so it was clipped super long. He got through the crux section alright but didn't get any gear in and ended up stalled out right before the easy section.
I kept telling him to get something in, anything but he was holding on for dear life. I had bought a video camera recently and my roomates wanted to come with us that day and film so he was rolling when this happened.
(there's some sport climbing falls first. sorry old edit.)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Luckily his story was a bit different than markr's in that my 2.5 Friend held his fall and I took about 6 feet of rope as he was falling. He did hit his foot on the bulge which is what flipped him, and sprained his ankle pretty bad if I recall correctly.
After this incident he swore off leading trad for about 6 years. Instead he focused on sport and we did a lot of it. When we did trad it was me leading or top roping harder stuff.
He slowly regained his confidence over the years and last summer him and Nina invested in thier rack and he started ripping it up again.
He's a better climber for it. Methodical and precise. He places excellent protection and often if needed.
Leading is definetly a mental game. You need to have it together or you will suffer the consequences. Fortunately there lots of ways to limit the risk.
1 Place extra gear when faced with a run out.
2 If you are way above your piece, pumped, and can't protect yourself, try and downclimb as far as possible.
3 Check your gear vigourously, and if in doubt, back it up.
4 If you know you're gonna bail in a bad situation consider a take instead of going for it.
5 Don't get in over your head.
Go have fun and push those limits, but come back home!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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6) WEAR A FRIGGIN HELMUT!
Man, he's lucky you pulled in the slack. I'm boggled as to why he didn't put more gear in, there's lots of choices available. I guess it was the inexperience, not being able to see them.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2012 - 11:44am PT
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Inexperience and fear ruled the day. Helmet is probably a good idea. Hamish says "take up mountain biking". I hurt myself more times going over the bars then i ever have on a rope.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Yes, I realized that comment was out of line.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
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Which is why you pulled it. I know, but i've been wanting to point out for some time that biking comes with its own hazards just like anything else.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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DaFannY is rad, keeps my personal items super handy. :P
Relic did ya get a bike!?! I need some one to go riding with!
FishBoy and I went for the 2nd(or maybe not)ascent of LOST AT SEA the other day, an aid route that follows the diagonal dyke to the right of the Roman Chimneys.
I got the first pitch, and I had forgotten my gloves in my haul bag on the other route Im workin on, and all I could think was how silly it was aiding with out gloves on.
Any ways I was in the middle of a healthy run out to the first bolt when in got to a dead head, I had some gear behind/below me but still would have hit the deck, I didnt have any heads on me so I hammered a pecker 1/8th of an inch into the dead head put a screamer on there(even though I was 85% sure it wouldn't hold a fall, at least it would hold the rope up so if I looked back I wouldn't feel so run out) and carried on hooking across the A3+ dyke and eventually made it to the anchors.
It waS Fishboys lead; he didnt have gloves either and NOT because he forgot them... So his pitch is rated A2+ so I insist he take the hammer(mainly so I wouldn't have to carry it), he declined and started hooking and bat hooking right above the belay towards the penji point, oh I forgot to mention his pitch had a huge pendulum on it.
After trying to do a massive pendulum that obviously wouldn't go, I suggest he look for bat holes as far as he could tension over and sure enough there was a couple bat hooks to a seam, an A2+ seam.. with out the hammer.
After a few super sketchy hand placed pecker placements up the left trending seam the one he was on popped, and he had been back cleaning them all because they definitely were body weight only, so back across he came on a giant unholy pendulum with his hand sandwiched between the rock and his body...
"Aww mate, moy hand urts mate"
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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biking comes with its own hazards just like anything else.
I started whitewater paddling when I was 13. In more than fifty years since then I've survived the whitewater, rock climbing, alpine climbing, ice climbing, skiing, and mountain biking with little more than cuts and bruises.
But I have broken what seems like half the bones in my body while road biking. And by road biking, I don't mean what a real roadie would call road biking. I've never raced, never done a bike tour, never been a "serious" road rider. I do commute on a bike, and have done for decades, but even this dangerous activity has never caused me any harm. Nope, all my accidents have come on what amounts to a short jaunt to the store, or a short ride to a friend's place. I've knocked myself unconscious, and broken ribs, collar bones, scapula, and a hip. All on trivial little rides of less than a mile.
Maybe if I thought of riding over to visit a friend as an "extreme sport" I'd have been safer.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Does Haggis even have time to bike anymore he spends all his time up SuperNacho.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I can squeeze it all in, don't worry. 67 rides since jan01!
We're going within the hour if you'd like to join us.
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