Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
hamish f
Social climber
squamish
|
|
I don't want to be a pest but that's why you two guys need a couple of bikes. Trails are perfect today so you have your back up plan.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
|
Apparently exasperator is dry. Going to meet the gang there now. Call me.
My hardtail needs much love. It still has the clip in road bike pedals not flats like you guys use today. Maybe ill get it fixed up.
|
|
hamish f
Social climber
squamish
|
|
Clipping in is mandatory. Suffering away on flats is kind of like climbing without chalk.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
The goods eh?
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
|
Its pretty darn nice and dry at the base of the grand right now.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
Bone dry @ work right now, friction sucks though.
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
The sun has been shining for much of the day here. My desk, keyboard, computer, and monitor have been dry all day as I work. My chair has been dry. My clothes have been comfortable and dry. I have had really good coffee, juice, food, and drink.
So why am I not pleased?
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
jim b was muttering about bringing his portable weber down there...
There's no sign that says you can't.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
|
Still beautiful here in squish. Transfered to the bluffs for some evening climbs.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
|
Nope. Dry as a bone.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
The traverse, and related activities, ought to be kept as low profile as possible. The parks people for West Vancouver were once asked about whether it should be put in a climbing guidebook, and they said if that was done, they'd close the area to climbing. Perhaps partier impacts at Juniper Point in Lighthouse Park contributed to that, but still, reason to be careful.
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
Giving in to the dark side. On my way to Corsa to look at Stumpjumpers... You win Hamish.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
|
Kyle had a big send day yesterday, and Luke was nice enough to hang a rope on Exasperator for me so I had a big photo day. Here's a teaser.
My shadow with Kyle on the sharp end of Exasperator 10c
Super good locks on the first pitch.
Almost at the first anchor!
Going climbing... more later...
|
|
hamish f
Social climber
squamish
|
|
Good to hear Relic, you won't regret it.
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
Good to hear Relic, you won't regret it.
Yeah! I'm liking the 29 inch wheels on the new ones. Just gotta take a demo for a spin, see if I want a large or XL frame.
~~~~PAD PEOPLE ALERT~~~~
Look who I caught today, toting some old school maxi pad for his bum to fall on.
Bike Mike killing his own thread with pictures of pebbles
|
|
markr
Trad climber
|
|
Hey Mike, I wanted to thank you for all your updates, photos and stories. The stoke you convey in your stories has helped me get back out of my comfort zone. A few years ago I decked after some gear ripped, and since then I've had this quiet fear in the back of my mind about going for it when I'm above a piece. I'd still climb, but always seem to find some excuse not to try things above my onsight level or put myself up a route that might be damp, etc.
Anyhow, I had you guys in mind when I decided to go get on Exasperator today, the second pitch of which is right at my limit. Knowing it had been raining, I definitely remembered the way you described Luke when you guys headed up Hanging Gardens and said f*#k it. We both had an amazing experience on that awesome route, (not without some flailing on pitch 2) and I might have just opted to go climb Slot Machine if you never posted.
How did you guys end up toproping Exasperator the other weekend? Did someone have a 40m rope or did you just do the first pitch?
Also thanks for starting this thread, some amazing and stories (Hamish's stories, Jesus...so good) definitely help keep the stoke going during rainy weekends or worky weeks.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 04:15am PT
|
markr- Right on man! That is so awesome to hear. Your story really touched me, and I'm glad to have been of some inspiration. Exasperator is a perfect place for a couple whippers. Especially P2 cause it trends right it makes for a super clean fall.
How did we toprope Exasperator? I'll tell you the secret. First of all we had two 70m ropes. You could probably get away with two 60's though any comment Bruce? The best way is to send it in one go from the ground, (without clipping the mid point anchor to make it a fair means ascent is the current style) then bring up your second and have them clean most of the gear except maybe a couple directionals on p2 if you need them. Then rap (with both ropes tied together and clip directionals and p1 anchor with one side on the way down.
After that make sure the knot is at the anchor and it's a simple matter of tying a figure 8 on a bight on the side with the directionals. Then the second clips in alpine style (locker on your tie in loops, locker side out). By the time they reach the anchor the knot will reach the belay and that way you don't have to pass it.
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
Haha. I called Big Mike, Bike Mike in my last photo. Must have Stumpjumper on my mind...
|
|
hamish f
Social climber
squamish
|
|
I can't believe my eyes...... bike chatter. Great. The other 29er people are liking is the Norco (yes, Norco) Shinobi. Looks very nice indeed.
Watch out.......pretty soon Special Kay will be spotted at the bike store.
Those stumpys are really nice. My wife and I both have Kona Satoris; pretty similar but perhaps a touch more "all-mtn". Tantalus Bike Store for those.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!