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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 29, 2012 - 03:07am PT
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are you talking about High Plains Drifter Hamish? I have yet to do it, it is on my must do list for sure. I think there is a new approach you can do from angels crest now.
Or are you talking about that other 5.11 crack way up there Perry did.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2012 - 03:39am PT
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Andy your pictures are getting better and they were allready great! Those Birds of Prey pics are awesome, and the Great Game pics are amazing too. Thanks for that!
How was the 2pa 10+ Bold pitch on that new Barley link up left of Birds of Prey?
How about the Barley Adequate memorial via ferrata?
We hit the via ferrata on our way from the buttress to the cirque and Luke says, "pull down not out" the last couple rungs were definetly bending under my weight.
This weekend was good times. Went to Murrin on Saturday,
Nina finally led Holiday in Cambodia 5.8
Then we went to the shaman but weren't to inspired. Kyle decided he wanted to go do Even Steven so we went to Petrifying Wall and it was busy. Beers wasn't though.
Kyle on Beers Are Not Enough 10d, aka Petrifying Wall
Sometimes the crux is alot easier when you figure out the beta :)
After we refueled we ran up the Apron, Kieran and I simuled Diedre and as a result I had plenty of time to take these sweet pictures of the boys..
Racing the setting sun on Uwall
We were cheering for Solo to make it into the sun before it set and he almost did but just missed it.
Pano
Closeup
Kyle and Nina got stuck behind a party on St Vitus so we had plenty of time to wait for them and soloed over to Memorial ledge.
Kieran on Memorial
When they finally arrived it was all but dark. Kieran managed to keep the camera stable enough to capture the boys finishing thier pitch in the dark.
Kieran Brownie Photo
On the way home the moon was hiding behind a peak..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
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That's the Promised Land 11b Relic. I've always wondered about the description. "Rap in, Jumar out".
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 29, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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That pitch is so good, if it was on the malemute the line up would stretch up to the hwy. Terrible approach though.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 29, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
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Looks awesome the promised land does. It is that beautiful corner, yes??
Awesome photo's MH2 & Big Mike, thanks!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
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Ya ryan. The one on the left side. The approach wouldn't be so bad if you ran up ultimate or angels first.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 29, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
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NN arête seems like it would be the best approach for the Promised land, less summit hopping. Relic, do high plains immediately via Borderline, bring lots of gold cams & Luke or Big Mike. One of my most memorable days on the chief. Wish i had a pic or story on that one, just remember having no water, being super pumped & taking a fall near the top of the first pitch. Second pitch is all time as well.Big day that one is. Would feel much easier if u hiked up & rapped in. Anyone OG's want to claim a better Squamish handcrack than High Plains?? Anyone got pics of it???
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 29, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
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Check out the latest corridor add-mag, the one with a ski story, kayak story, bike story, surf story, climbing story, etc. etc.. mountain culture (that's it), page 50
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 29, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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I'll do that Hamish, thanks. Mountain Life I believe it's called.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 29, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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Wouldn't NN Gully be the quickest approach to the "Promised Land"? You're already half way up when you traverse across to Astro Ledge, so it wouldn't be much further, and IIRC it's class 3 or class 4.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 29, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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Hmmmm, you might be on to something Anders. I generally will choose easy 4th or 5th on rock as an approach over easy 3rd or 4th in a gulley though!! Who knows, maybe there is a way to approach it from the bottom of the gulley or traverse in on some bushy ledges, looks possible in the photos.
I'm sure it hasn't been climbed in eons.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 29, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
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There's a full length of the wall aid route that takes in the free Promised Land crack as the next-to-last pitch IIRC?
I heard Space Box is pretty good too. 12c chimney?
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MH2
climber
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May 29, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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I just noticed that in the shadows of the last photo I posted (Promised Land/ NN Arete) the following feature seems to be visible. New Wave route cleaning.
I have pics of HPD but must wait a decent interval before using more space. I have about 3 pics from my first 35 years of climbing but am making up for it now.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 29, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
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That be one of the larger identifiable recent rockfall scars visible at Squamish. And it looks like there's more on the way. NN Gully may not be a very safe place for a while - there must be lots of loose stuff in it, and at its bottom.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 30, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
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Looks like Europa.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 30, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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Hmm, i gotta get out there. It gets sun in the am there does it not Bruce??
As well I meant to ask you (or anyone here) if you've ever climbed up at lilloet edge? Looks to be nice rock with a great position over the lake. Have hiked up there & looked around a bit but never tied in.
Climbed at chek yesterday, it was bone dry. Saw people up at Nordic rock as well on my way in to work today. Fun little cliff that one is too. Dries real fast north of the big orange bridge.
There's always options around here when it rains on the Squamish granite -u may just have to reduce yourself to clipping bolts, even lower on the bitchingness scale than bouldering I've been told:-)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 30, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
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Pemberton bump! Some wicked stone up there. Some of my favorite rock is in the boulders by the Bastion. Tiger striped granite anyone?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Israel climbing Into the Light low start.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 30, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
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Into the light is my Nemesis.
Haven't tried it in a few yrs but used to get bouted on it all the time.
No question as to the quality of the stone out that way-stellar.
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