Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
|
Hamish there is two pitches. Right of even steven. The first is 10d to a nice ledge and anchors at about 30m then a short 10b corner above it.
Bruce- yes it is better. And less fixed gear once we get rid of those old rivets. I knew you were gonna bring that up. I bet ypls is dry - that seep is probably still there but it comes out the bottom of the pinnacle and only affects the moves off the traverse.
|
|
hamish f
Social climber
squamish
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 12:20am PT
|
Geeze I guess I'm getting old. I thought I did that route but remember all those down at the end going in one pitch.
|
|
hamish f
Social climber
squamish
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 12:31am PT
|
It's a must-do just for the name.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 12:42am PT
|
The FA of Petrifying Wall was by Kon Kraft and John Wurflinger, in 1970. Rather exploratory for the time. And yes, the crux off the ledge is a bit exciting.
|
|
Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 12:55am PT
|
I want to hear stories about Uwall too Luke, something about a portaledge not being up to standard...;)
GF, did Matt or Nath have any more photos from that climb? Or you? THAT corner looks beautiful from the ground!
|
|
Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 01:10am PT
|
^^^^ and a topo of White Fags, the route I assume you're referring to...
(Stay tuned for a 2nd of another route matt did a few years back, the 3 pitch Lost at Sea....I believe the gear is up there waiting for me to get a day off)
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 02:36am PT
|
U WALL!!~!!! c'mon, give.
How about instead of glorious hard climbing stories we start with really stupid failure stories. Is that okay?
Got on U=Wall once with Peder. Long time ago. We got up the first couple of pitches and were tucked in under the roof when the rain moved in. I think we hung out for a bit, waiting to see whether it was just going to be a brief shower, but no, it was a full on rain storm. So we bailed, and rapped out to the base. But the base of the actual climbing is quite a ways up from ground level, and rather than schlep our little haul bag down the trail/scramble Peder suggested that we just boot the thing off and meet it at the real base a few hundred feet down. This would surely save us tons of time and aggravation.
The fall line isn't exactly clean, and I wasn't sure, but Peder was the Wall Master, so what could I say? We booted the bag, and watched it tumble down a little way and hang on a ledge or in some bush.
We spent the rest of the day in the pissing rain, rapping that stupid slab, freeing to bag and booting it, and watching it bounce down another ten, or twenty meters and hang up again. Over and over.
We weren't in any danger of dying or anything, so it was more funny than anything else. But we probably tripled or quadrupled the time and aggravation in getting down. And got really, really wet.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2012 - 02:45am PT
|
I don't have any Uwall stories yet, but i do have some more photos from it. I meant to post this one this morning but screwed up the link.
University Wall 12a (12d Shadow) C2
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2012 - 03:47am PT
|
Bruce don't undersell this sucker. It's a good one! Kyle whipped on it, and anything i've ever seen him bail on has been a worthy climb. It should be on any 10+ 11- crack addict's tick list. If only for the location, and the name.
Beers Are Not Enough 10d aka Petrifying Wall.
What was the original aid grade?
Bruce- Sounds good! looks like the weather will crap out towards the end of the week so earlier is probably better.
I thought I would give this cell photo of Tom on the pillar a better treatment.
I picked this out in photoshop last night from the uwall photo.
Clean Corner 5.9
Anyone have stories from this one? MH2 I know you've been up there your pictures looked cool!
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 11:22am PT
|
Those shots of U Wall really make the line stand out, and it is THE LINE on the Chief.
Clean Corner was a little too wide for our #5 just at the start but after that there was no need for big cams.
Come to think of it, Robert said on Saturday that he was never again going to believe anything I told him. Hey, anyone can be wrong. He was the one with the topo and he had just told me the pitch was 10+. I took a look myself that evening:
I sand-bagged myself, too, despite having previously done the black overhanging chimney. The difference may be that last time I didn't have a giant camera and helmet fighting against me as I tried to squeak out of the tight spot. Oh, well, at least there was something to do while I was hanging. If these folks from Golden, or any of the others there on Saturday want some pictures, they can contact me here.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
|
Kipling's Kim is a better read, for historical fiction about the Great Game.
|
|
sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
|
"The Great Game" FFA R.B, P.S, BMacd 1985
When you've done BOP... and done the Buttress... and done the 9's and 10a's allround town... good one to "aim for" IMO... such an appealing line.
Good stuff! Wish I had a pic.... or a story 'bout it... BMacd?
A.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
|
+1 sac, i wish you had a pic of it too! The Great Game is one of the best short 5.10 multi anywhere.
Every pitch is good & has it's own character. The steep last pitch is so rad & unique for it's grade in Squamish. The first pitch is burly. The corner pitch is technical.
Quality stone, good position, variety, sustained climbing= 5 stars
That's some good work Bmacd & co!
Is that really what it's named for??!
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
|
Yes, where is Bruce?
The Great Game is one of the busier routes on the Squaw(Slar-nay)
Probably Harry Young, on Straight Outa Squampton.
|
|
hamish f
Social climber
squamish
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
|
I 2nd that. There's one of the Chief's gems up in that steep gulley on the right wall. Quite a hike and a full couple of raps but what a pitch.
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
|
|
|
hamish f
Social climber
squamish
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
|
I think that's it! Wow, you are fast with those pics. I don't have many (12?) climbing pictures but I did that pitch and it was outstanding; just a little heavy on the approach.
|
|
Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
|
|
May 28, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
|
I didn't take a picture but I was sitting at the base of Caboose on Saturday taking my rockshoes off and a big garter snake crawled out from under the rock I was sitting on and snaked its way past my ass and away at high speed. I was kinda disconcerted when I felt this wriggling back there. Seeing it was only a snake made it better, kinda.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!