Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
May 24, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
|
Exactly Anders :-)
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
|
May 24, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
|
Well done filming the blobs. That was a pretty tall monopod you used, huh? Made the slab blobs look exciting even! I've been trying to get mike and Luke on crackhead but I think they are too sissyboyish for such a challenge. Like c'mon. It's a crack!
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
May 25, 2012 - 01:04am PT
|
Speaking as (I think) the only full-time professional editor and writer on this thread, I gotta say to Tami: "Yer fulla sh#t."
Of course I've probably said that to her more than a hundred times, so it doesn't mean much, but she gave up the writing gig (yes, cartooning requires mad writing skills) a while back, and that makes me the Grand High Poohbah of All Things Literary here, and I had no problem with the "Why?"
So there. You get to sit in the car while Hamish gets milk and cookies and a fresh sheet of paper and a freshly sharpened pencil.
Oh, and about the bouldering? We didn't have to boulder back in the dawn of time because we had the Smoke Bluffs. "Dude, I'm way too stoned to climb, what are we gonna do?" "Yeah, me too. So let's go nail something in the Bluffs." And now it's too late for us. Old people don't bounce so good, so all we can do is ride bicycles and then sit around drinking beer and telling each other how hard we were back when climbing still meant something.
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
May 25, 2012 - 10:03am PT
|
I have a long history with bouldering, starting with the buildings of my university. At the Gunks I thought it would be cool to traverse the 2 1/2 miles of the Trapps but only made it from Red Cabbage to Maria, in approx '72.
During the Chicago years I tried Gill problems at Devil's Lake and they were just as impossible as the Gill problems at the Gunks.
In Seattle I was a fixture at the UW Rock where we had the pea-gravel crash pad.
My only climbing injuries have been from bouldering: a sprained ankle and a fractured heel bone.
Then in '88 or '89 we spent a summer month in Vancouver. I went straight to MEC and asked a guy behind the climbing counter where the bouldering was. He said there was this wall behind Park Royal South, and maybe Lighthouse Park.
I didn't think to look under the moss up at Squamish.
|
|
hamish f
Social climber
squamish
|
|
|
May 25, 2012 - 10:26am PT
|
"Old People Don't Bounce So Good"
That's primo. Still wish I could write like that.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
May 25, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
|
Thanks Relic, it was a painters pole with a GoPro mounted on the top. Pretty fun. As for getting Big Mike & Luke in the boulders i may have to agree. I texted Luke to climb 3 or 4 days ago & still haven't heard a reply! I used to be not so sure about the blobs myself but once you get used to the unconventional techniques it is a really cool style of climbing that only helps your overall repertoire. Just very humbling for the first while. Same with sport climbing, used to hate on it but that was only because i never did it & was scared because i had no endurance. At the end of the day though it's all climbing & it's all super fun so mixing it up & doing a bit of each has been my MO for the last few years & it really helps to keep you stoked & stops you from thinking things like-
Old people don't bounce so good, so all we can do is ride bicycles and then sit around drinking beer and telling each other how hard we were back when climbing still meant something.
i really had a good chuckle at your post ghost, it sounds like you spend a lot of time down in the cascades, you should really consider checking out the boulders in Leavenworth sometime. Some great circuits on perfect rock at all grades. Just think that getting to the top is like getting to the first piece or first bolt!
Cool that you used to do some bouldering BITD MH2, i would really love to get spanked on some Gill problems one day as well.
Just re-read your story Hamish & yes my tips are sweating again which sucks cuz' i'm about to go climbing. I think you really captured the moment. You can tell by the way it was written that it is burned into your memory so vividly that there is nothing but the honest truth as to what was happening & going through your head. The best writing when it comes to recounting tales doesn't always have the best grammar or descriptiveness, but IMO it is always the raw, honest thoughts of the person who is putting them down that makes it fun & exciting to read. you could have written this on a brown paper bag in crayon, with backwards "r's" & it still would have invoked the same emotion in the reader.
Edit; Luke did text me back, somehow my phone did not receive it or his did not send it, hence returning his status to a stand up guy, however the answer to the question of him being ready for the boulders remains unanswered :-)
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
|
Wow Hamish. Just re-read that story myself and now my tips are sweating too! Thanks for that! Kyle says it's your best one yet.
Guillotine Flake 12a
Did Matt Maddaloni really free this thing?? Yes, he did. http://climbingnarc.com/2010/05/the-anti-cam/
So cool! Any one hear anything new about his Up From The Skies project?
Went back up to Respiration Rock the other night to give Sandra's Dirty Rope a good scrub down the other night. Thanks to Luke and Aislinn for all their work up there.
Last night I took a couple friends up there to check it out.
Forgot my memory card for my camera at home, so I used my phone instead but managed to figure out how to make the shots work last night in photoshop.
Rick starts up the overlap on SDR 5.9
Gaining the ledge.
Last nut before the anchors. Back it up.
Khyber is such a camera whore :)
It's a super fun little climb now, takes good gear in the right places.
Go hit er up!
|
|
perswig
climber
|
|
|
May 25, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
|
^^
Nice small wires!
Dale
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
|
Ryand- Nice video! I finally got a chance to watch it! cool angles.. You know Josh Freeman eh? I thought that was him in your Pillar story.. Tell him I said hello..
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
May 25, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
|
Big Mike, always keeping it real with the photos. Thank you sir. Your route looks much cleaner than the last set of pics. Btw I just finished a new route myself with my friend Josh. It's a 2 min walk off the highway. Heading north from murrin park at a pullout just past Gonzales creek then walk up the grassy hill to the cliff u can see from the highway, nice spot 2 routes, one on the right is fully bolted(salmon handcuffs 11bish) & the one on the left is mostly bolts but bring a few finger cams (moby dickface 11+?) both are really fun & well protected. Great spot for a hot day, there's a nice little waterfall up there at the base. Would be a good place for a grungy dirtbag to clean up. Rings to lower off. Give em a go!!
Edit: just saw your post Mike I'll say what up to freeman for sure.
|
|
thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
|
|
|
May 26, 2012 - 12:41am PT
|
Great shots mike, and rad video Ryan, I have to agree that the angle made those pebbles look bad ass, maybe when the weather gets too hot to be on the wall I'll hone my skills in the boulders. Rurp riot here I come!
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
May 26, 2012 - 12:56am PT
|
Thanks boys! Let me know when ur ready for a session! Gonna go climb some pitches in the am tomorrow then maybe hit the blocs in the afternoon so shoot me a message if u want to meet up, burn one & do some heel hooks!
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
May 26, 2012 - 12:59am PT
|
Anyone want to go exploring tomorrow? For example, looking for the original start of Squamish Buttress? The old mountaineers' route from the first to the second summit? Not much climbing may be involved, but it could be fun.
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
|
May 26, 2012 - 01:21am PT
|
I'm gonna head up for some early evening pebble pinching tomorrow after work. It's gonna bee way to hot on the wall. You might sweat a ball off. Perfect forest blob temps. Come out.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
|
Anders- I would love to join you for some exploring one of these weekends but I need more of a heads up as I typically make plans with people before the weekend.
Ryand- I'm gonna have to have to take you up on that offer soon, but it's just so hard when there is so much dry climbable rock to play on. :)
Time for a couple quick ones.
Nina on Little Spark 5.4
Luke, Nathan and Dave on Uwall
Closer
Even closer
Kyle on Beers are not Enough
Sunset on Memorial
going climbing!
|
|
Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
|
|
|
May 27, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
|
Big Mike, excellent photos, all of them. I enjoyed them muchly.
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
|
May 27, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
|
Hey lurkers on U wall. How's it hanging up there? How's the sopping wet fist?
|
|
Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
|
|
|
May 27, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
|
Big Mike, where are Beers are Not Enough, and Little Spark? I'm just a tad out of date here.
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
|
Thanks Glenn! Beers is a Bruce Kay route! Not fa. I think he freed it.
It was cleaned up again recently and is a really nice moderate option for petrified wall.
One good 3/8 bolt replaced two crappy rivets at the mid crux. Whats the story on the upper pitch bruce? We skipped it cause it didn't look like it has much gear.
I got more pics today and lots more from yesterday too. I have more pictures than time!
Kyle talked to the boys recently and they were schlepping the gear across bellygood.
Edit forgot about little spark. It's at sugarloaf you know that spot where they used to hook up 200 pound rocks to public utility towers for shitz and giggles bitod.
|
|
hamish f
Social climber
squamish
|
|
|
May 27, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
|
Upper pitch? Are we talking about the one-pitch high Pet. wall here?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!