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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 12, 2009 - 03:48pm PT
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Just a little aside. Yes, TMs Jewel is not an aesthetic climb. Neither Powell nor I liked it on the first ascent. That's why Powell named it TMs Jewel. Not a good bet!
TMs Jewel was the name of a dog running at the dogtrack in Rapid City when Kamps and Powell were taking time off from climbing in the Needles. Mark figured he couldn't go wrong with a name like TM's Jewel. He laid some big bucks on TMs Jewel to win. The Jewel came in last!
By the way, the first time I climbed Tahquitz Rock was in the early spring of 1952. I told this to Robbins last fall and he doubted my honesty. I explained that I was up in Idylwild with my college buddy to visit our girlfriends who were on a spring break outing. When we spotted that beautiful rock outcrop we just had to climb it. Neither of us knew anything about rock climbing. We just plowed through the snow straight up to the rock. Tried every which way until we finally worked all the way around to the south face and then finally up to the notch above the Friction Route and walked to the summit.
I didn't return to Tahquitz Rock until 1961 when my life on the rock began.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 12, 2009 - 04:01pm PT
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I suspect surprising Royal with a climbing tale is a good day. :)
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 12, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
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Idyllwild was a great place to live! All these pix's make Robyn and I home sick. KLK is right, we were always able to find new crags. An climb in solitude, Our favorate way to climb!
CHEERS:
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 12, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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Like this place just above town? Scenic Rock, AKA Club Rock
Robyn Erler on scenic arete
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 12, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
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??
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rdh
climber
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May 12, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
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Henny and Largo,
Just for the record, Stairway to Heaven has definitely been repeated free. Frank and Troll and I did it back in 2000. It is way easier than something like the Pirate, so I would assume it has been repeated at least a number of times. Great route. Several photos of first pitch here from Frank/Troll.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 14, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
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GO TROLL & FRANK'o !!!!!!
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 15, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
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SEEEE YAAA!!!
WAREN: looks like he just got laid!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 27, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
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never a bad idea to bump an Idee Wildee threadee
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Orange Curtain
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Aug 21, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
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Even though I've only only climbed in Idyllwild for a few seasons, I sometimes feel as though I have a lifetime of great memories.
Cracks and slabs abound, and there's always something harder to aspire to.
The hard-charging bravado that characterized the Stonemaster era may be long gone, with relatively few people venturing onto the hard face climbs as well as diminished FA potential on Suicide Rocks and Tahquitz (as noted in previous posts), but the area still feels like a little slice of paradise to me.
a few random photos:
at the start of Freelance
starting up Hot Buttered Rump, with the gaping chimney looming above
Sonja cruising Johnny Quest
A fun jaunt up the Chatsworth Chimney
on Y-Crack (doesn't seem like this gets climbed very frequently, which I find strange given the reasonable grade, high quality of rock, abundant pro, and pretty awesome exposure for a single pitch)
-Nick
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Oct 26, 2009 - 08:10pm PT
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Idyllwild has lost its popularity its because the skills you need to be successful are not easily learned in a gym the amount of foot work you need for the hard face climbing takes a while to learn. And I've noticed alot of really strong climbers only trad climb easy routes like 5.6 even though they can boulder V8 which is really stupid. and as far as the 5.14R/X crowd Idyllwild probably seems like a low rent yosemite to them. and when the really strong climbers do come up to Idyllwild Sharma, Rands, and such they only go to Black Mountain to climb. I work at Nomad Ventures in Idyllwild during the summer so i keep hoping Tommy Caldwell or someone of his caliber will come up and crush all the super hard problems and put up some other hard climbs just like the young guns did to Idyllwild in the past. Darrel said about Some One Your Not in an interview he did with Bruce the manager at Nomad Ventures that he rated it 5.12+ so hopefully it will be repeated, he put it up almost twenty years ago. Also Kelly Kendall and Frank have been putting up dozens of new lines in the hinterlands and other such areas. Idyllwild is my favorite place to climb and has some of the coolest locals and i hope to be seeing more people up their. Did any one hear that Scott Cosgrove Freed part of happy hooker is it true? can't wait to get back.
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gonzo chemist
climber
a crucible
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SUPER-PSYCHED IDY BUMP! The season is upon us! wish I could be up there today!
and I'm renaming this thing the Buttress of Chutes! Anybody who's climbed Frustration, Sword of Damocles, or Captain Hook will understand
...damn those things can be funky...
edit: what the hell? why did ST rotate my picture?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Apr 21, 2010 - 01:10am PT
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can't wait to go climbing at Suicide!
RM
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Apr 21, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
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Great photos and stories everyone. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of climbing in rock shoes but I can share some snapshots from February.
Tdoughty, that Weeping Wall picture is insane!
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Apr 21, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
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HEY! Doughty STOLE that photo! (He's a buddy, we were in Josh last weekend)
I posted that pic, among others, here...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=511917
Photo credit goes to Galen Kirkwood. He was on top of pitch 1 of Surprise, looking for bolts. I stayed right, around Duck Soup, following the edge of the ice. I finally found some bolts near the edge that I could clip, that was our rope up point, halfway up the Weeping Wall.
A rare day, to be sure.
BH
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Apr 22, 2010 - 01:43am PT
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That one picture sums it up. Best time of my life spent climbing thouse routes.
I love the place goals for this summer rope solo the step and Sooper.
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REIGN 1
Social climber
if anybody can a republican
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Apr 22, 2010 - 05:47am PT
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Idyllwild has always been my favorite place to climb. Arch Angel, Untickable and Man Who Fell To Earth took full attention to send. Darrell taught me a lot about climbing there. Picante is really good with that blank section. Damn, I miss that place.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Apr 23, 2010 - 01:47am PT
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Beehay, cool photos on the other forum. Even though I'm stoked for spring/summer in Idyllwild, I definitely miss the winter climbing adventures. It seems like there was serious potential this year but I can't even imagine the weeping wall. That must have felt pretty surreal.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
not very much, recently.
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I just read this through and realized about halfway that this was my second time through this thread... worth a second read for sure! Idyllwild is one of my favorite places too.
Eric
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