Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2011 - 01:39am PT
|
Spruce Lake area, eh?
|
|
Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2011 - 01:46am PT
|
Mike Beaubien, John Simpson and I freed the Philistine Groove as the approach to The Daily Planet.
Whether Kevin nailed it before us or not is unknown to me.
Free or aid, it's an aptly named black hole of a pitch that sucks stars off nearby classic routes.
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2011 - 09:54am PT
|
..........black hole of a pitch that sucks stars off nearby classic routes
I went up and down that thing far too many times when we were cleaning the first two pitches of Borderline. At that time it had two ancient ropes fixed on it. Knotted together every three meters or so. Soon joined by our static.
I never tried to free it, just jugged up on my way to work, but I often wondered what it would be like as a climb. What makes it so horrible?
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
|
what did I win?
Maybe the Savary Island salad dressing that Ghost hasn't picked up yet.
|
|
Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
|
|
Oct 20, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
|
Is that last one Message to the Stars or something?
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2011 - 12:15am PT
|
It's the finish to Split Decision. The other Split Decision. Near in location to Message from the Stars but not as hard.
|
|
kaiser
Trad climber
squamish
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
|
Oops, my bad.
PB did free the Phillistine groove, km aided it. my memory is fading with age.
it certainly is inferior to the fantastic routes above.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
|
Is Nina any relation of Barry, in Prince George?
|
|
Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
|
Mmm Squamish
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2011 - 07:39pm PT
|
Some of the cleanest brightest funnest rock Squamish has.
(For a couple pitches)
|
|
Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2011 - 12:24am PT
|
Here's something new we pieced together this summer. FA mid Sept with two good friends. It will be buffed to a shine by next spring for your enjoyment.
That patch of bare dirt against the wall 1000' below is the trampled out area at the base of Java Jive.
Grand Finale 5.11a, A0, 5p
FA Sept 13, 2011
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2011 - 12:38am PT
|
Does the climb end just underneath the Penthouse?
|
|
Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2011 - 12:46am PT
|
No, it ends over to the right. About 60' left of the top of the Upper Black Dyke.
|
|
Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2011 - 02:46am PT
|
This pitch had been done up to about here years ago by Peder O and Jim B. They stepped left and put in an anchor. We went right and up for 50' more.
What was the old Peder and Jim route?
|
|
Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2011 - 02:50am PT
|
Peder said they never gave it a name or reported it. It was pretty forgettable, and just fizzled out in the middle of nowhere. It was never recorded in any of the guidebooks.
K
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!