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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 21, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
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Who was up on cannabis wall yesterday?
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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May 21, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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Guilty. Why do you ask? Btw, 2 of the heads on pitch 3 blew on me. Still easily doable with beaks and an rp2.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 21, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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Atta boy Paul, way to get after it.
Is it true Croft came all the way to Canada just to silence Haggis from giving away all his stories for free?
On a historical note I am currently in possession on Big Jims copy of Anders Ourums Guide to the Squamish Chief
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 21, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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On a historical note I am currently in possession on Big Jims copy of Anders Ourums Guide to the Squamish Chief
Never heard of the guy. Maybe someday I'll write something else, if only so as to help learn people how to spell my family name. Anyway, it's fairly definite proof that 23 year olds ought not be allowed to write guidebooks.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2012 - 12:13am PT
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Don't worry, Mike. We're here. Luke said hi to me today as he drove thru the bouldering parking lot at the Chief.
hahaha, Luke told me about that.. He didn't even know it was you until you said "Hi Luke" :)
Rutbaga first pitch is 10b ya sandbagger. KM says 10a, but I can see that :) Get on it! Definetly easier than Arrowroot.
Ya, Area 44 is pretty cool. Bring a helmet though, seriously. That place is chossy. The one climb with the pillar that's held on by chains at the top of a pile of boulders stacked on top of each other is pretty wild.
Coming soon: The flight of the Albatross!
HeHeHe... That's the truth. Those birds can fly though can't they? This one just falls.
Relic if you put that bolt in do you think it might cut the rope on the edge?
Is it true Croft came all the way to Canada just to silence Haggis from giving away all his stories for free?
Say it isn't so? Hamish is it true? If so, Get Writing!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 22, 2012 - 12:17am PT
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I was yelling at u guys while I smoked cannabis in the parking lot before goin bouldering. Seemed appropriate, although that may have just been the cannabis. Thought it might be Luke. Way to get after it guys.
Good question about the Hamish stories Luke & Mike but I was told it had nothin to do with PC comin to town but that Hamish is actually just out of stories, he already told us his whole career of stories upthread apparently, didn't u know he only ever went climbing a few times before rock shox were invented & his biking career took off??! At least that's what I heard :-) whaaaaahahaha whaaaaahhahahaha(evil laugh). Maybe I'm wrong, guess we'll just have to bait and see.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 22, 2012 - 12:40am PT
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Those birds can fly though can't they? This one just falls.
Ah, you don't give yourself enough credit ;)
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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May 22, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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Cheers. Not "guys" though, just me :-) Had the ipod cranked up, so was lost in my own little world. Nice one though, that's one way to enjoy the sh#t weather!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2012 - 02:30am PT
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The Grand Wall 13a (11a A0) lite
Ever since the time I started climbing with my ex-girlfriend in 2001 I've wanted to climb this classic. Some may view my progression as slow, and yes maybe by some peoples standards it was, but considering where I was when I started I'm pretty happy to be where i'm at today. Plus I'm still alive which is allways a bonus.
So when Luke said he was going to go up there this weekend, and Nathan was bugging me to go do something it was a no brainer.
I picked up Nathan promptly at 7 and actually beat Luke to the parking lot for the first time in my life. I was STOKED! We racked up slowly and Luke arrived and jumped out of the car ready, and him and Aislinn ran ahead.
On the way down I had informed Nathan that I had lost my water bottle yesterday and I was bringing my camera so we would need to bring a backpack. He agreed and never said a word about it, even though he hates backpacks.
We got everything together and took off running (in flip flops) through the boulders and up the trail to the Escape Flake and across to the belay at the base of Merci Me.
There was a party ahead of us of course and Luke and Aislinn too so we waited for awhile to get on the first pitch.
Nathan on Merci Me 5.9
Crappy cell phone photo as I was freezing in my t-shirt at the belay.
Nathan's theory was that I should lead the 10b traverse pitch so I could "rest up" for the Pillar. It actually worked out pretty well, I found the pitch awkward again but got up it clean and ran up the bolt ladder to find not very much room for me at the belay.
I found a spot on the left side of the tree and made it my anchor. I am sure it is affecting the Split Pillar but it seems more likely that other forces will be the real cause if it's demise. It makes a darn fine anchor and would be an excellent vantage point for photos.
With four people allready at the belay, Nathan chose to stand on the lowest tree branch.
After awhile Luke headed up, The Split Pillar 10b
Aislinn watches him closely.
And up...
He made it with a rest at the wide part and Aislinn struggled up it. It was a good effort and she was heard to say "This is HARD!"
We let her get to the rest before I started up. I got into the groove real quick and with Nathan encouraging me I was running up the thing jamming and tossing cams in every ten feet or fifteen feet, and when I got to the wide part at the top, I twisted my right hand into a insecure jam instead of taking advantage of my arm and simply thought about placing a cam for one moment too long. It must have been a good 30 footer because I passed at least three cams if not four and had a beautiful soft catch.
Unfortunatly Nathan did not fare so well on the catching end when he got sucked into the anchor and his thumb was sucked into his atc. It was a minor scratch though and he got off lucky.
After a bit of a break I placed another cam and ran up to the rest. Luke convinced me that I should layback the outside this time, so I did and I found it alot easier than chimneying behind it.
Nathan chose to go for the chimney method on his clean second because he said it was more secure.
Nathan in the slot behing the top of the Pillar.
Crappy cell phone photo
Nathan and Aislinn at the top of the Split Pillar.
We waited for a bit on top of the pillar for the party ahead and Aislinn remarked that she was rather cold. I reminded her that I was stupid enough to wear a t-shirt up here and she had a fleece and base layer on so if she could kindly be quiet it would be much appreciated.
Luke pulls the mantle on The Sword of Damocles 11a
Luke gets his stem on
There was a party behind us on the Pillar, they caught up fast!
Cell Photo
Nathan had to resort to aiding the mantle on the sword but, made it to the top of the handle before suffering a little set back right before the chains.
He was short of draws on the bolt ladder and ended up running it out
pretty hard to the anchor. I had a bit of a stinker with the slopey mantle and probably yelled take a few too many times.
Perry's Lieback 11a was my pitch, so no pictures and we had lost Luke and Ais by that time anyways. I could do the moves and linked the first couple bolts but ended up pulling out the pocket aider at the crux.
The party behind us was a nice guy named Tom and his girlfriend. They were very patient with us, although they were alot quicker.
Here is Tom topping out on the flats above Perry's Lieback.
We got to talking and he said he was from the rockies but he used to live here. Somehow Hamish's name came up and he said that he used to mountain bike with him.
The flats went pretty smooth but by the time I got up to sail flake I was done. I relinquished the lead to Nathan and he soon discovered he was pretty pooped too. He aided his way across the undercling and clambered his way out of there up the flake.
When it was my turn I tried to free the moves but ended up taking a couple times, then took the last traverse piece out and promptly fell into mid air. Hanging there, and not wanting to lower, I got my prussic cords out and aided the rope back to the last piece. I got up the flake and with that it was all over but the walking.
Nathan led bellygood and stopped to graciously offer me a belay at the narrow part. When we got to the end I took this photo.
Bellygood Exit
After we got down we went and got some eats and went to meet up with the gang at the bluffs.
What an amazing day! Can't wait to do it again!
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 22, 2012 - 03:04am PT
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Sounds like a wicked adventure Mike, good work on getting up the Grand.
Yesterday Me and a mate did Blazing Saddles in the rain, totally amazing route.
You boys been on Liquid Gold? I think that's my Friday plan...keen?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2012 - 03:19am PT
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hmm... supposed to work Friday but i'll see what I can do. it sounds like fun!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 22, 2012 - 04:48am PT
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Nice going Fish getting on the Badge in the rain. Did you tromp around up there and check out the other routes? One of the best crags in the sky in Squamish for sure.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 22, 2012 - 09:17am PT
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Yah, the chimney might take more effort and time, but I'd feel like such a dumbass if I got all the way up to the top and then popped out of the layback for some reason..... Great write up, it was an awesome day.
Edit: I did grab that fixed nut just before the mantle on the Sword, but I then proceeded to send the sh#t out of it :P Better than last time when I slipped off backwards.....
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 22, 2012 - 10:00am PT
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Truth is I've got loads of stories; problem is they all sound the same. I could make a full time job out of embarrassing myself.
Way-to-go climbing the Grand. Great picture of all the kids after.
Luc,I notice you climb mostly with your girlfriend and if you want to keep that relationship healthy, get Aislinn to clip into those huge steel rings with more than one biner. Sorry to be a nag, but that's part of parenthood. You have two bolts, two chains, two massive steel rings, and only one lonely aluminum biner. I always felt good clipping myself to the station with the actual climbing rope, even as a back-up. Sorry, I'll shut up now.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 22, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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Super duper story mike, way to get up there. I'm proud of you for sure.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 22, 2012 - 11:04am PT
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No kidding Bruce, I barely fit in there!!
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MH2
climber
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May 22, 2012 - 11:28am PT
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Good going, Mike and gang.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 22, 2012 - 11:41am PT
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Wait a sec, is Anders from California? A Modesto climber with a lot to be Modesto about?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 22, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Welcome to the club Mike. You can't really claim to be a true Squamish Climber until you get your ass kicked on the Grand Wall. Just about everybody here has been humbled one way or another on that climb.
I suppose we could could cut Hamish some slack, cuz he was only seven years old when he first led it, but still...
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 22, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
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There's no way Anders is from Modesto, he's way more of a Point Grey-Kits guy.
And there's definitely nothing wrong with that. The only problem out there is the topography; too flat for a gondola.
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