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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 16, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
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Not to Mike. He is infamous for his old smelly climbing shoe fetish. He's sniffing himself into a frenzy right now I suspect.
Freaking weirdo.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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Yes Bruce. They reek. I made the mistake of checking the size this morning.
Relic I thought you were the one with the foot fetish? ;p
I left out 1 important character
Kieran's post awhile back reminded me of the pictures he took of me on my ffa of SDR.
Me trying to get a Alien in on Sandra's Dirty Rope, 5.9
Kieran Brownie Photo
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 17, 2012 - 01:58am PT
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Cool photo Big Mike! I'm gonna go climb your route soon! Looks fun!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2012 - 02:51am PT
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It has anchors now but apparently it's still a bit dusty. I still need to get back and give it a scrub. Luke did a great job up there.. I did very little. Thanks for your efforts Luke!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
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Couple more photos of Sandra's Dirty Rope
Big Mike getting dirty with it
Kieran Brownie Photo
Luke cleans the dirt off the ledge on second
Kieran Brownie Photo
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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Wow.. quiet around here... must be sunny outside and everyone is playing? ;)
Luke gets some good locks on Werewolves of London 11b
A closeup of Nina and the Eagle on Fata Morgana 5.8
Nathan gets the pinch on Rutabaga 11a (p1 10a)
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MH2
climber
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May 18, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
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Don't worry, Mike. We're here. Luke said hi to me today as he drove thru the bouldering parking lot at the Chief.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 18, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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Rutbaga first pitch is 10b ya sandbagger.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 18, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
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I'm sort of hesitant to post this picture, because if word gets out about it we'll have Klimmer here with his nephalim and arks on the moon and bible codes and alien anal probes, and who knows what else, but...
...but it is a Squamish photo, and kind of tells its own story.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 19, 2012 - 12:33am PT
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Those guys did a lot of work down there at area 44. Pretty cool spot- for a sport climbing area :-)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 20, 2012 - 04:25am PT
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Hey Squamish OG's!! I know some people spoke of it upthread but i was wondering if you need to drag the boat anchors up kneewrecker or if u can get away with the usual rack?? Anyone remember what it's like in there?? A friend wants to go take a peek.
Not looking for beta so much as wondering if it's a waste of time to bring the big cams.
Thanks in advance for the sandbagging :-)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 20, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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You're just wanting to do the chimney pitch right Ryan? not the two dirty corners below it?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 20, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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Thanks guys, haha "shoulder bruising wall load", i'll bring some bongs & a half dozen wooden wedges slung with hemp chord & the hammer!
Not too sure Luke, we were talking about doing ghost dancing maybe?? Looks like today is not the day anyhow. You climb anything up that way?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 20, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
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IIRC, you don't need any unusual gear for Kneewrecker, at least not anything unusually large. It would be difficult to fall out of the squeeze chimney itself, and again IIRC, in a few places you can get regular size protection in subsidiary cracks, or the back. As it's three or four varied pitches to get there, though, a good selection of gear is needed.
When we did it, we were harassed by some as#@&%es in a helicopter, but that probably isn't common. Still, if you had a say a #5 camalot, you could always pretend you were going to throw it at them.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 20, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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Just bring singles to #3 and hope for the best :D
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 20, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
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My buddy JR and I did it a decade or more ago via Ghostdancing. Didn't bring up anything big, cuz we never owned any. We lived. Bring a broom for the gravel.
I remember asking JR why the heck did we grovel up it instead of the perfect corner crack beside it.
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MH2
climber
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May 20, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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Too many criss-crossing lines: Ghostdancing, Arthroscopy, The Spectre. I've backed off Arthroscopy when it was wet but found it fun dry. Ghostdancing, always interesting. The description for The Spectre in McLane says to finish up Ghostdancing or Kneewrecker: Take a small rack of cams to 2", a few wires and draws. Doesn't sound shoulder-bruising.
The corner crack right of Kneewrecker is perfect for maybe the first 20 feet and after that you might find dirt and vegetation joining forces with the technical adversities. I am pretty sure that someone cleaned it once, but it didn't stay clean.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 21, 2012 - 01:16am PT
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Coming soon: The flight of the Albatross!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 21, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
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Does anyone have the time to help add a bolt to a pitch for me? It's the 5.9 Variation of the Squamish Buttress. It just needs one bolt added above the 2nd bolt, once you step around the arete. I'm not sure why we didn't put one in on the FA, but it totally should have one there to protect the dicey arete moves before the easier terrain.
Also, it's a 10a. Haha, sorry bout that too!
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