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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 14, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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Rad times, good to put a name and an alias to a face, Bruce and Andy!
Andy won by far, he didn't even stop to rest the whole way up, even when Bruce tied a bag to the rope he was trailing. Machine...diplomatic and humble to boot. I wanna be like that when I'm an old fart... ;) (That's a wink there MH2...)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 14, 2012 - 10:05am PT
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Yes kidcormier, that's one of my many excuses. Maintaining calmness well above gear is another. Wedging my poor old feet into those little shoes is another. I've got lots of lame excuses but the biggest one of all has two (29") wheels on it and goes like the wind...
Pretty funny I know your future mother in law; now I'm feeling old(er).
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 14, 2012 - 11:12am PT
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Cool photos Mike, that Fata morgana is a bit of a tricky one for the 5.8 gear leader. Good climb.
So Tami, let me guess- you probably think Werewolves is 12 a/b?? :-)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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May 14, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Its actually graded 11a in the guide books I've seen, Big Mike is a known grade creep...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
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Last night was fun indeed. Andy killed that crack in 6 minutes. Closest time was nathans at 7 minutes.
I just print what i read in the guide book. Km is a grade creep i guess.
I ditched work today so i could run up the buttress with nick, sitting at the base of the 10c right now. Super nice up here.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 14, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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Get those pictures up Mike!!!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 14, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
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It was a nice sunny hot day today on the Chief. All the cool kids were out on it. Luke and I climbed by Old Fred Beckey today on Rambles. The guy is still at er'. Saw Jim and Jola Sanford walking off Broadway too. Too bad I missed most of you guys at exasperator yesterday. Did Ghost make it there?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 14, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
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Hah, meant it as good old Fred. So awesome seeing him up and at it still. That guy is amazing.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 15, 2012 - 12:19am PT
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Got a little apron lap in myself this morning too, was sure nice to be up there again. Relic were u guys sitting at the first belay talking on your cell phones around 10?? I was running by on the trail with my headphones back to my car & thought someone was yelling at me, I looked up tho & it was 2 guys hangin out casually yabberin at the first belay on their phones with a party above them. Hope u guys had fun! Beautiful day. How is that rambles thing anyway?? 6 minutes seems quick for an exasperator lap!
Anyone got a good Sanford tale? Seems like a bit of an enigma, he seems to have been active around the same time as many who post here, was he shunned for his ummmm agressive sport tactics? Or did he just quietly send things while Jola held the rope??I see him out every now & then & he still crushes, warming up on animal at pet wall & stuff like that. Every route of his i've tried has been a lesson in humility as well. Sure left a host of difficult climbs around here.
GF- where's Mr Bad example??
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 15, 2012 - 12:36am PT
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Do you mean on the Kashmir wall GF? No Ryan, Luke and I got a late start. It is a good climb for sure!
Oh haha, nevermind! I thought you meant the Squamish buttress!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 15, 2012 - 12:58am PT
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The scenario, all too common. Jim S is walking along the base of Petriflying Wall, as someone like me flails on one of the 'easier' routes there. Something like Pleasant Pheasant, say. The climber recognizes Jim and asks for beta, knowing that all routes there depend on trick handholds and other sandbaggery.
Jim thinks for a few moments, then looks up and simply says "pull harder", maybe with a little smile.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 15, 2012 - 01:03am PT
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Freewill.....seriously! That thing is bad ass!! Also worth a mention, albeit a completely different style & almost equally difficult despite the 4 letter grade difference is Digital Dexterity @ pixie corner, don't think it sees too many ascents. Too bad the army put some wierd tyrolean anchors right next to the seam 3/4 of the way up. I'd be stoked to send just one Sanford line, anybody know any soft ones?? hahahha yeah right, as if such a thing exists. Dude has an eye for sustained, hard climbing.
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MH2
climber
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May 15, 2012 - 01:14am PT
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Sunday was a good day, too. Michael and I turned around on Squamish Buttress when I started to worry about my car sitting all alone after dark at the Caulfeild plaza. Can't trust those police.
Fortunately the Exasperator get-together was still on. As we got close I saw a youth climbing smooth and fast toward the top. Even more impressed when it turned out he had a bad respiratory condition. And he wasn't so young.
This is the first and last time I will be considered fast.
It was good to see and talk to everyone. The White Ale surprised my taste buds or whatever it is you taste with. I felt like a smarter beer drinker instantly.
Thanks to all.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 15, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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Was great to meet you Andy. You can see how fast Mike's belay arm is moving in that picture - that's due to my trying to keep up with your record ;)
As a matter of fact, it was good to meet Michael, and BK as well. Great to see some of the pioneers of Squamish's last golden age, so to speak.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 15, 2012 - 02:22am PT
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Mike and I had a big day today...climbed calculus, Karen's Math, Memorial, Squamish Buttress, a couple of offwidths in the Cirque of the Uncrackables, then a solo of Banana Peel. Here's some piccies!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 15, 2012 - 09:25am PT
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Freaking weirdo
I was trying to use jedi mind tricks on the piton to make a fair means ascent, but the power of the dark side was too much for me.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 15, 2012 - 11:34am PT
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That none of you saw me at Exasperator doesn't mean I wasn't there. Sometimes I'm hard to see.
Jim S is a crusher -period.
And not just on Squamish granite. He could lead harder ice than I could follow, and was pretty comfortable in the mountains. And to make things even worse, he was a really nice guy. That's just not fair.
I climbed a fair bit with him, which is the best illustration I can give of his attitude toward climbing, because anything I could get up, he could solo in roller skates. He had a real laser focus on his projects, but he also just loved to get outside with friends. The fact that he could climb three full number grades harder than I could didn't seem to matter. He was always supportive and encouraging. I spent a lot of time with him both on and off the rock, and never once heard him say a negative word about anybody.
Now, back to exasperator. I was there. Just not at the same time you guys were. For whatever reason, I thought the event was scheduled for Saturday late afternoon, and made the trek up the hill with a friend. We met a very nice young couple visiting from somewhere else, drank the can of Coors Lite we'd carried up, and finally gave up and went home and lit the barbie.
We did see Andy later that evening, for which I'm grateful because it's been too long since the last time. And I spent a lot of time on the phone with Bruce Kay, but never saw him. He even came looking for me in the bar after the exasperfest, but didn't see me. Even though I was there. Sometimes this whole hard-to-see thing is less fun than you'd think.
Still, Sunday wasn't a total loss. Here's where we were while you all were exasperating:
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 15, 2012 - 11:48am PT
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Nice photos guys, that skywalker shot is framed very well. Thanks.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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No time for a proper post this morning.
Got a few pics done tho,
Michael getting beer cans thrown at him at the start of Exasperator
This picture proves it's hard to throw a beer can and take a decent pic at the same time.
Andy enjoys his White Ale while Fish belays Sandra.
Bk and Solo
Nathan on Rutabega 5.11a (p1 10a)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 15, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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Here's another shot from Sunday.
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