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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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May 11, 2012 - 11:43am PT
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Bloodlust was reasonably well protected for one of the older routes, also a fave back in the day.
If I recall DD went straight up from the first to third belay and was a good way to jump the queue. The same queue jumping can be done by traversing left from the first pitch along the horizontal crack and climbing straight up. No bolts, old school 5.9. I may have the variations reversed?
Don't discredit some of Jeff Thompsen's later additions too quickly, seriously hard friction climbing with healthy run outs. 5.11/5.12 slab is still a head game no matter how the bolts went in.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 11, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
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Hah, seems like everyone has a different memory of DD. It does have 2 bolts. It is quite distinguishable by the dimples or shallow pockets on it IIRC. There is a pic of Dave Jones soloing it in the 92' guidebook. You finish it at the big flake thing you stand on at the start of the diedre, the start of White Lightning. That's how I remember it, but my memory is pretty crappy.
Dirty Little White Boys is a good one too. You can do the first 4 pitches at 5.9 - 10c. It's over by snake.
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perswig
climber
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May 11, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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^^
Is this Dave Jones a hardman who may have climbed around the northeast US a bit, maybe a geologist? I spent a day with a D. Jones, who danced up .11s and .12s in Camden, ME like nothing, reducing me to tears.
Nice guy, to boot, dammit.
Dale
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 11, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
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The one to the left of the first tree ledge that rolfr speaks of is what I thought was DD, it's good exciting fun for sure, no bolts, quality slab. Good way to get warmed up for White lightning.
I'm at work hopefully the rest of you have the same excuse for posting on a beautiful day like this, let us know what you climbed today in sunny, dry Squamish!
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MH2
climber
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May 11, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
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That first 5.8 crack you come to at Funarama and then the bolted face climbs right and left of it. Which, for us, averaged out to an easy day. Got ice cream at New Market and looked around the fancy new building on Cleveland.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 11, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
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Thanks MH2, that crack is fun, are u talking about that new giant glass cube across from parkside??
Who else was out there? I stopped at Murrin for a minute to say hi to some friends who were trying Betazoid, anyone know the names grades of the new bolted routes to the left? We tried a few of them last week & it seemed like the far left was 5.8 or so, super steep jugs, real fun, unusually steep for the grade, then the next one was 10+/11- with one big mike reach, then the arete just left of Betazoid I didn't try but my friend said maybe 11d/12a? Pretty fun little zone around there with genesis all cleaned up too with a few new lines that are all pretty fun.
Edit- and it looks like there's about 4 new bolts on horrors of Ivan too so that should make it way safer and better.
Hahahahahahhaha- joking:-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
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So the mothers day crowd has convinced me that attendance might be a little better if we move the start time up a bit. So lets say 230 on sunday at the base of exasperator.
I am currently sitting at fata morgana and it is gorgeous here!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 11, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
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I have written down in my olde guidebook/journal Diedre Direct is "really good, 2 bolts". McLane says one bolt in his '92 book. Rolf and Ryan say zero bolts. Haha.
I think that you guys are thinking of Straight Up, the 5.9 variation with no pro.
Anyone wanna make a wager as to who's right? I got my money on Anders and myself.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 11, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
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My money is on you. Straight up rings a bell, so many ways to climb all over the slabs in that area. I also have done what u guys are calling DD but I don't remember any bolts?? Maybe 1?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 11, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
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Straight Up goes directly from the belay at the original start of Diedre - the birch about 20 m up, the way most now do it - to the belay at the end of the original pitch, which was a tree, now gone, in a scoop a bit right and down from the bolts where people now belay. Looking at it another way, it is a few m left of the first pitch of Over the Rainbow. Straight Up has no bolts at all, although the other route is intrusively close.
Diedre Direct is directly below the block on the Diedre traverse, the one just before the start of the Diedre corner proper. You start it about 25 m left of the original start of Diedre. DD has certainly one and probably two bolts.
The original start of Diedre was to come in from the left via a diagonal crack and bush line, so missing out the first little slab.
All the routes on the Apron right of Diedre were established on lead, with EBs, using nuts and pitons, and usually follow weaknesses. The only exceptions being A Troll's Sonnet, the Passing Lane (possibly), and the retro-bolting of Black Bug's Blood. As the rock has generally gotten cleaner, with sticky rubber, and with modern gear, it's possible to go pretty much anywhere. I believe that it may be time for a moratorium on "new" routes on the right half of the Apron (at least), some cliffs in the Little Smoke Bluffs, and perhaps elsewhere. There's little if any point to them.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 11, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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OG's^^^^
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MH2
climber
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May 11, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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Holy guacamole, gf!!
I knew there would be a crowd up there.
You are welcome, RyanD. Yes, that multi-story thing with the glass. Gives a different tone to Squamish. There was lots of life along Cleveland.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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May 11, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
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So cool to see the gf - hf - pc team re-united if just for a day !
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 12, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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So cool to see the gf - hf - pc team re-united if just for a day !
Right on guys! Hope you had a great day!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2012 - 02:26am PT
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I told you. My phone is capable of posting to supertopo. :) no i wasnt belaying. Im just finishing up at the brew pub now. The wonders of the modern world.
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'Mo
Big Wall climber
Squamish, BC
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May 12, 2012 - 03:56am PT
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Tami, I owe you an apology; blame it on not wearing my glasses, but you are correct, that thar bolt oh FR fully changes the character of the route. This was pointed out to me by your partner in climb via a PM.
MOE-??
Not really. It is the anchor with an extension left over from a previous lead attempt that day. I don't know if you have ever climbed Fungus Razor GF but if have and could remember you would know that you can in know way clip this until you have completed the mantle. The climbing after the mantle is 6m of 5.7 followed by a dirty traverse to mantle a salal covered ledge (sketchy ledge fall potential while pulling on weak greenery) to get to the original tree anchor. Then what? You bring up your second, hope they can follow it, and rappel off and try it all over again if you didn't get it the first go. Okay this was the way it was originally done, (actually it was done in two pitches and with several fixed pitons) and it never got done again. It is a great route, one of the unsung Croft test pieces. Now the route can be climbed in one pitch from the ground,it has no fixed pro (unless you clip the anchor on top of the 10d) you can lower off with one 60m rope and those of us not talented enough to onsite it can work it out on top rope. After the anchor went in I watched this route get three ascents in one day including a flash, this probably three times more ascents than it got in the previous 2 decades.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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May 12, 2012 - 09:59am PT
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It was over 3 hrs.
Finding sunblessed was easier in the old days, when it was under the second summit. Around the time it was made a park, they moved it over to the third summit. Brutal.Some sort of Park Boundary adjustment somethingorother, not too sure.
Man my quads are sore.
John Rosholt's classic quote for locating the turnofff to sunblessed: "It's not obvious but you can't miss it"
RIP buddy.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 12, 2012 - 11:15am PT
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I'm glad I'm not the only one that gets lost on the way to Sunblessed. I swear it used to be easier to find BITD.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 12, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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Sometimes it's faster just to go to the 3rd peak and work downwards along that fault right of Dimwitted area. can't miss it then.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 12, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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Haha 3 Squamish legends getting lost on their way to climb some Squamish 5.10 trade routes!! Classic!! Hope you guys had a fun day!
My god man I was kidding about lap tops at exasperator! Its a bad idea not a good one.... yeesh. freakin kids these days.
Greg, good of ya to update the blog from half way up.
Bruce, i hope you are feeling better! I am worried though that based on your hilarious comments that you may actually be quite ill :-)
Good ? about the block on Fungus. It seems solid but is also seemingly just stuffed in there. A big 8 x 20 cork under that roof. Is the rock scar that makes up that climb the result of a railway blast??
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