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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
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hahahaha! Bruce, bring your tree spikes so we can take turns throwing cans, er i mean taking pictures from the tree! :)
I think we'll have to build Hamish a nice little transition to pull that landing.. too bad about the runout :)
Andy I hope you're coming? Hamish? gf i heard you're back in town? Tami? Anders? Jim B still in Calgary? Bmacd is still in the desert? Perry? Saugy? Oplopanax? sac?
Haven't heard from Coastal Climber in awhile, I would love to meet him and thank him for his participation when i was starting out. Nigel SSI? ditto.
any one else? more the merrier.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 10, 2012 - 09:09pm PT
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The mosquitoes will be very happy.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
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bug spray might be in order. ;) you gonna put it up for us Anders? :)
Ya hoser i've heard that complaint allready. Mine is on the island, I'll be calling her :) Ghost was in town so i thought i'd seize the opportunity.
Maybe if it goes well we'll do it again..
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 10, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
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I'm all over an Exasperator party. My lady might have the day off, so she'll come up and join the bottom party as well :) This is happening right? My hopes aren't going to be dashed at some point over the course of the weekend?
Edit: Mike, yeah you did warn me about the lack of pro..... And I guess I knew before I started that it was a little sparse..... But at least now I can tick it off ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
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ya you can dude.. bold tick.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 10, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
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Gotta put myself in the headspace for climbs like Unfinished Symphony and White Lightning. Runouts are just another part of the game.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
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In honor of the event my first ever manipulation.
No Bottles!
No Bottles!, RIP Ouch!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 10, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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poor me...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 11, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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Haha that photo is hilarious! Anders your photo on the previous is awesome, the crack looks pinned out but the rock is still grey! Speaking of anchors, was there bolts at the top of the first pitch when that photo was taken?? Oh & what's up with the heel-hooking? You some sort of hippy boulderer?? :-)
@soloclimber, unfinished symphony is fairly well protected, white lightning however has a bit of spice on the first pitch (5.9 slab solo) make it through that & the rest ain't so bad. When you really want to get scared go do dancing in the light. Not sure what the logical progression for difficulty:runout ratio is from there for multipitch slab? Dream on?
For me it was sport climbing.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 11, 2012 - 12:05am PT
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Not sure what the logical progression for difficulty:runout ratio is from there for multipitch slab? Dream on?
Dream On has some difficulty and some runouts. Which I can look back on fondly, comfortable in the knowledge that I'll never have to get on it again.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 11, 2012 - 12:45am PT
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I don't know aboot the logical progression, but all I know is 5.9 and 5.10 pitches on 5.11 and harder slab routes in Squamish = poop in yer ginch...
As a tester, go do Diedre Direct. At least you get a bolt.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 11, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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Ah, I don't know too much on the history of the climbs, or much about the climbs themselves, so I'm just assuming that they were all bolted on lead. I've started to really enjoy hard slab climbing, so want to make a goal of getting on the majority of these climbs. Once I get the new Select, I'll be able to comprise a logical progression of slabs to do.
Anyone interested in getting on some harder friction routes?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 11, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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Quick Answer Tami, yes very run out. The Grim Reaper is bad ass.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 11, 2012 - 01:13am PT
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Once I get the new Select, I'll be able to comprise a logical progression of slabs to do.
I'm not sure how the new guidebook to come will help you on your quest for slab progression. While I have no experience with the newer Apron slab climbs that have been plastered on top or next to the long standing run out classics, I can only assume they are akin to putting up a sport climb right on top of the Bachar Yerian. Furthermore, climbing some new sporty bolted 5.10 slab won't do much for your head space when you are faced with say a 5.10a pitch on Dancing in the Light.
Stick to the old classics that still remain in tact for slab. Build up from there. Go do the Upper Apron ones, then maybe do Diedre Direct into White Lightning.
Bypass Grim Reaper until you know you are a full fledged slab master. It will set your brain on fire.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 11, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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As a tester, go do Diedre Direct. At least you get a bolt.
There's a bolt on Diedre Direct now? When did that happen?
Uh, maybe I should first check on what Diedre Direct is. It's the alternate first pitch that goes more or less directly up instead of wandering around over to the left, right? My memory of it is about 100 feet of 5.9 slab, with no pro at all.
Did somebody stick a bolt into it? Or are you talking about some other variation?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 11, 2012 - 01:25am PT
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Diedre Direct has had at least one bolt ever since Carl and I first attempted it in autumn 1975. IIRC, there are two bolts total.
"Slim Pickins", as far as anyone could make out, wasn't far from Black Bug's Blood.
I believe that Marc's new book has or soon will go to press. It looks very good.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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May 11, 2012 - 01:29am PT
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@ Relic: I only say the new Select as my last guidebook was borrowed/appropriated from me, and I just figured I'd wait until the new book is out before buying another one. My intention is to do the old school runout climbs instead of the newer bolt ladder types.
In my last post, when I said I assumed they were bolted on lead, I meant to also add, 'and therefore fairly sparse on the bolts.'
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 11, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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Ah ok gotcha Nathan. It still might be easier to find the old classics with an older guidebook, or knowledgable partner. The newer guidebooks make me dizzy with the number of overlapping routes and lines drawn on pictures.
That's funny, I only remember one bolt on DD, albeit one placed right before the crux. One bolt, two bolt, it's all good fun for the brain.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 11, 2012 - 10:51am PT
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Alright, we're headed north. Get those extra bolts in and the new holds chipped.
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