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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 10, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
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You guys bring very good points on the matter of adding protection bolts & i fully agree. I guess the sentiments are the same for anchors? FYI the anchor can't' be clipped unless you pull the mantel or aid up. The other option once you do the mantel is to walk up the slab & do at least one weird diagonal rap off some sh1tty barley station @ the base of quagmire, or continue up. Awesome climb, you guys should definitely go down there & do it again.
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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May 10, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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I think Anders should weigh in on the addition of belay bolts, then this thread can go to 5000 posts. :-)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
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Tami- I hate to be devils advocate here, because i know thats bruce's job, but isn't that exactly what jason and hayden did? And maestri before them?
Not saying i approve of the anchors but food for thought.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 10, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
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Tami- I hate to be devils advocate here, because i know thats bruce's job, but isn't that exactly what jason and hayden did?
I'm not Tami, but I'll put my $0.02 in anyway: No, that's not what JK & HK did. Their alteration of the CT route was done after decades of discussion in the community. I'd be surprised if they asked Maestri, but you can bet that they, like pretty much all climbers who spend time in Patagonia, had had endless discussions about it with a lot of people. There's another thread or two for discussion of the good or evil of their choppage, but it doesn't have much in common with the usual route alteration at the crags.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 10, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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Yes, I'm guilty by association of allowing a well-known rescuer to add belay/rappel bolts just below the top of Seasoned in the Sun. There was a safety issue, in that the ledge just above provides good tree anchors, but was also becoming destabilized. JH finally persuaded me that fixed anchors near the top made sense, even though it allows people to avoid the last interesting move. That said, anyone toproping there is dumber than a bag of hammers - it's a rockfall zone from the Vulcan's Artery/Northwest Passage area.
And yes, I added three bolt belays and four climbing bolts (one at a place where people used to use pins) to Slab Alley, after considerable on-line discussion, and talking with people like Hamie and Tricouni, who did early ascents of the route. (Neither Jim Baldwin nor Tony Cousins, sadly, was available.) A seven pitch route. Plus did a little cleaning, which is pretty much invisible to non-climbers. I'm still doubtful about one of the three stations, but the other two were needed.
My views and analysis of the idea of adding fixed anchors at the top of Penny Lane are well know and well founded. An unsafe and illogical idea.
Whatever else, if you want to add bolts to an existing route, talk first. Seek the views of those who did the first ascent, or at least early ascents. Tell people, not just your posse but people you know may disagree. Talk first, bolt later.
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Raingod
Trad climber
North Vancouver
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May 10, 2012 - 03:31pm PT
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I agree with Big Mike about JK & HK. There may have been discussion but in the end they said screw it we will change the route to suit our vision of how it should be. That being said respect for the FA should be universal.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
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Sorry bk if my joke offended you, i will gladly retract it.
It was not my intention to turn this into a ct thread. I just saw the similarities.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 10, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
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Sorry bk if my joke offended you, i will gladly retract it. It's actually Anders' job to offend Bruce, so you should direct your apologies to him.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 10, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
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Is there going to be a beer fueled Exasperator get together this Sunday? If so what time. I can get the day off Mike.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 10, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
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Is there going to be a beer fueled Exasperator get together this Sunday? If so what time. I can get the day off Mike.
This does seem like the most pertinent issue.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 10, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
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Second free ascent, pitch 2. Note shrubberies.
I've both walked and hand traversed (heel hooked) the bit at the end. Both work well.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
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This does seem like the most pertinent issue.
The only thing notable this weekend is the Doug Fir Memorial Exasperator Speed Comp and Beer Garden
Seems like Bruce is still down. I'm down, Ghost? you in? sounded like a couple of other people were stoked.. I said Sunday 4ish but earlier if people are into it.
Everyone welcome, byob and remember the more b you bring the more ammo you have.
Nice pic Anders!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 10, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
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We'll be around all weekend and I'm always happy to meet new people. And old people. Beer is good, too, although I haven't drunk anything from a can in a decade. May I throw bottles?
Probably getting to Squamish early Friday afternoon and leaving Monday afternoon. Just keep me posted.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
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I dunno Ghost.. Would you like us to throw bottles at you? ;p
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 10, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
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I dunno Ghost.. Would you like us to throw bottles at you?
As long as they're full, and you toss them gently so I can catch them and they don't get all foamy when they're opened, then go for it.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 10, 2012 - 07:28pm PT
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So you'd prefer that we didn't throw bottles at you from the gondola?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 10, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
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Ghost, just go buy some Red Racer beer and you can retain your beer snob in a can status.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 10, 2012 - 08:25pm PT
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Probably won't take much more than a few shopping carts & few ropes. Take the back wheel of Hamish's bike & rig it to a pulley system. He can pedal away stationary while we do TR laps & throw beer cans out of the Hamish powered shopping cart tram. Shazaam -exasperator gondola! All proponents in favor of beer! I think it's safe to say that since there will be no profits we can skip the regulatory BC parks process.
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MH2
climber
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May 10, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
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So to be pertinent, from the campground parking
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 10, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
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Oh he's getting broken into for sure, that's like advertising for the skids.
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