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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 17, 2009 - 01:01am PT
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426 - Thanks, I'm going to have to try and make it down that way some time.
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 17, 2009 - 06:39pm PT
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richross
Trad climber
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Nov 17, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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Red Tape,Gunks 1979.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Nov 17, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 17, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
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Someone's got the shingles!
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Apr 12, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
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Sonja (s.d.) gettin' after it on Morongo Man.
One of the best roof cracks in Joshua Tree, in my opinion!
Big thanks to our good friend Paul Schwartz for taking some cool photos that weekend!
-Nick
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Apr 12, 2010 - 06:55pm PT
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Someone needs to name a roof crack 'Roofies'.
Oh wait, I've got one I'm working. I call it.
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Apr 12, 2010 - 07:22pm PT
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I'll dig out the photo asap- What the big boys Eat 12 !? North veedawoo. 6 -#3'5 friends. Even bob Scarpelli was gruntin'.
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Apr 12, 2010 - 10:51pm PT
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Holy sh#t, Morongo Man looks amazing! Thanks for the pics Gonzo and good climbing with you this weekend.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 12, 2010 - 11:21pm PT
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What size in morongo man. That one looks good. Methinks I should try next time I'm down that way.
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More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
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Apr 13, 2010 - 12:48am PT
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Steve Hong, Coffin Roof, Little Cottonwood Canyon
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Apr 13, 2010 - 02:37am PT
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Hopefully, sometime in the near future, I will photograph and post the most insane roof crack EVER--assuming that I can drive the 40 miles and capture it in its full glory.
Be afraid, be very afraid, of what the future holds...
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Apr 13, 2010 - 03:07am PT
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Yeah Morongo Man is killer fun!!
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Chief
climber
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Apr 13, 2010 - 10:45am PT
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Thanks for the photos of Morongo Man.
Back in the 80's it was a Josh "must do" and I did it with a dude named Micheal from Colorado. Classic!
I think Cozzy will agree that "Huge and Choice" 11d qualifies as a Josh "must do" roof crack as well.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Apr 13, 2010 - 05:40pm PT
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Tom,
The starting dihedral is #4 camalot size. The roof takes a variety of sizes because its pretty irregular. You can find really good jams, but it's definitely not an IC splitter! 0.5 camalot to #3 camalot will serve you well. There's a fixed hex about 3/4 of the way out the roof, also.
For the purposes of full disclosure, I have not completed the route yet; So I can't comment on what you need above the roof, only out to the lip.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 13, 2010 - 07:04pm PT
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Thanks Chemist, sounds really intriguing.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Apr 22, 2010 - 01:30pm PT
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I made it out there this morning to finally capture THE roof crack in all of its glory:
The site--boulder in left foreground is 20' tall, the roof crack follows the shade on arch from left to right.
Improbable tips crack (not a roof crack, but steep)
THE roof crack of all time--(the tips crack is on the smooth portion of "cave" left of the big roof crack).
Looking back out of "cave"--the 20' boulder can be seen in the lower center.
All this one takes to climb is 60'+ of A0 or 5.13+? on the face, followed by 80'-100' of hands to OW--rap straight down 150+' and you're home free!
It's not aesthetic (or even climbable, really), but it sure is BAD AZZ!
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Vin
Trad climber
Louisiana
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Aug 15, 2010 - 05:48pm PT
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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Mar 12, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
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Coach Crack , Rock Creek, anywhere from 13b to c.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!