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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 29, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
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after looking at the owl roof posts, i was getting stoked on roof cracks....
what are YOUR favorite roof cracks?!? (splitter or corner)
Moab:
Crack House (possibly the best pure splitter roof anywhere?) birth canal section
Layaway Plan (under clings through a tight hands corner roof)
Brother From Another Planet (12' OW roof in a corner)
Veedauwoo: (lots o' roofs there)
Squat (will it ever come together?!??)...bad beta here
Lucile (only did the first pitch, but wanna try the second; that roof is HUGE)
Hob-goblin (an edl boulder roof out by the roof ranch)
Devils Tower:
havn't tried either yet.....but they look amazing!!! (the only two real roofs at the tower, excluding the window)
avalon (fa skinner)
brokedown palace (hong)
Montana:
Crack of Libido (the best roof crack in the gally's)
Hyperspace (new splitter roof crack found at 'fantasia'...what a find!)
Big Shoe Roof (splitter OW boulder)
Hot Dog in a Hallway (a TKings find, and still unrepeated!)
Basket Dispatcher...an old favorite that fell over last spring...RIP
City of Rocks
Interceptor (fingers to fist splitter)
what are your favorites?????
cheers,
patrick
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Jan 29, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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for some a4 nailing fun, midwest style, i've been playin on this one for awhile. never seem to get around to finishing it though, usually over test belayer patience and decide to get drunk instead. though i'm sure they try, the locals have never managed to get over to my fixed gear. (not shown in photo)
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Jan 29, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
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Different take on a classic - Blaine Harmon on Separate Reality.
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alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
The American West
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Jan 29, 2009 - 07:14pm PT
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Pat, what happened to the Basket Dispatcher?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 29, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
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Nice topic Pat!
How about Desiderata
(Photo of Jaybro by Will)
Here's the Hotdog in the Hallway
Grungeskull is a fun one too
Sadly Basket Dispatcher fell over last spring and is now a pile of rubble...Probably had to do with the crazy amount of rain we had around then...and the loose chossy band just below it...too bad, it was a fun one.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 29, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
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A really classic and doable roof crack is the River Boulder, in Yosemite. Wish i had a photo . . .
JL
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Jan 29, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
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Vern Clevenger on Red Tape,Gunks 1980.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Jan 29, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
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Easter Overhang - Midnight Rock 11worth, WA
The crack splits the twin roofs center and left
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MH2
climber
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Jan 29, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
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The Monument
Ontario
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Jan 29, 2009 - 08:15pm PT
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This is, quite possibly, two roof cracks... That or there's a sword fight happenin'...
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 29, 2009 - 08:20pm PT
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There is a big big prize first ascent roof crack to do here in Yosemite. It's 30 feet off the trail. This thing will be hard but today's monkeys should be able conquer it.
People must be blind .....
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Jan 29, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
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"Nothing says heel-hooking roof God like tendonitis in the back of the knees"
--John Sherman
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jan 29, 2009 - 09:20pm PT
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Aww come'on. everything's been climbed in Yosemite! Move along, folks, nothing to see...
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
T100
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Jan 29, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
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my back yard....
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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Awesome shot of 'Separate Reality' Nef!!!!
yeah the basket dispatcher fell over due to erosion, it was a pretty small fin....
I didn't try it, but the 'University of Mars' might be the biggest roof at the woo? and the 'darkside of mars' looked like the perfect squat trainer?
cheers,
patrick
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Jan 30, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
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Thanks, patrick!
--Ran
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2009 - 11:58pm PT
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Kingsbury Thread?
Nobody tells me anything...
I like Overdrive in YOS
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 31, 2009 - 01:42am PT
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Interesting Overdrive would be mentioned. This is a route I've always had an eye out for, but I can't honestly say I've seen it, though I tried looking for it from the road.
Strange connection, this fall, after climbing at new diversions, my partner and I ran into to the same man seen hanging out on separate reality seen above.
Never seen him before or after, but he saved my partner's ass. We were talking about overdrive with Blaine, got distracted, then drove off leaving my buddy's rack on the side of the road.
When my buddy realized it the next day, we remembered that Blaine said he knew a friend of ours here in Bishop, and we made contact. Long story short, Blaine had picked up the rack and mailed it back to Bishop.
Roof cracks, people who like 'em are all right.
Fistful, tarbuster, fistful of walnuts. that's a good one.
If I can get in shape, maybe overdrive this spring, or separate reality, or both.
For me here in bishop, that means training at the gorge.
Oh yeah, anybody do bob's big wedge?
Tom
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Dudeman
Trad climber
California/Idaho/Beyond
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Jan 31, 2009 - 02:27am PT
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Here is a couple of shots.
This is some kinda famous lady at the Crack House
This is some not famous dude at Gibraltar Rock doing The Nose Route
Same not famous dude doing Interceptor at City Of Rocks, Idaho
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