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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2013 - 01:10am PT
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shut the f*#kup jebeus and weschrist, jhedge! dinggus and other detractors
ron is a valued component of our's heritage.
you young punks need to learn some respect.
respect is like running it out.
lost upon our generation.
thanks ron,
for being you amongst a lot of them.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 21, 2013 - 02:55am PT
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speaking of areas that used to be bold, but now are just bolts, anyone know whether the t-storms hit the loaf today? seems like they were more on the east slope from my vantage, but my vantage can't see their vantage, and it's on the scope for tomorrow.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 21, 2013 - 08:40am PT
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respect goes both ways Wegian
most communities don't have this dualistic thinking, sport respects bold AND bold respects sport.
I regularly sport climb with a guy that goes and does run-out, chossy 12s and 13s trad FAs the very same weekend. sure, i give him sh#t and he gives it back, but he knows I know what he does is bad ass, and what I do is me pushing myself in my own way.
that is respect.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Aug 21, 2013 - 10:49am PT
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Here it is again .
The one hour approach has kept climbers away for years now
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 21, 2013 - 10:55am PT
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Fact. The last tahoe bold man is now dead his name was Dan Osman.
Fact. Dan Osman was also a sport climber who rap bolted, grid bolted, and even manufactured the base of Cave Rock for comfort.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 21, 2013 - 11:08am PT
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Yep, Dan Osman rap bolted sport routes... and had FUN doing them. And I've been sport climbing with Adrian Burgess, Jonny Woodward, Jose Pereyra, and other bold climbers... they didn't bitch about the bolts... they had FUN getting pumped silly without putting their life on the line. A few of them even went on to put up their very own sport climbs. I heard Donini even had fun in Maple a few years back.
FACT is, Tahoe lacks legitimate sport crags now that Cave Rock is gone, but has plenty of bold (museum) climbs that hardly ever get done.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 21, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
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I just love watching the bitter old f*#kers bitch and complain and disrespectfully demand respect for their point of view only.
Detractors? Give me a break. Not everyone will agree with your viewpoint and arguments. Get over it. Dont whine and cry when everyone on this damn site doesnt worship and leghump your ideals.
Cheers on The Osman facts, theyre hardly secrets. Yes he was bold, yes he made some questionable ethics decisions, but whatever, it is what it is. Validate as you see fit, but he did create a good pile of issues with some of his decisions
Besides, having a debate about boldness with ron is like having a debate about running with a fat person.
There are lots of new routes going up in the Tahoe region that are both bolted and bold, many on the same route. If youre such the uber-local stewards, then go find them. We're hardly keeping them secret.
As for the so-called detractors, lets go drinking.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 21, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
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You get a little touchy, dontcha?
You think Im a youth, thats so cute!
You just dont like it when others come in with any sort of different viewpoint. Hence, the term discussion.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 21, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
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Ron-enator,
When I say Dano did those things, it is out of respect for his ability to see and use the tactics and training of sport climbing WHILE being a bad ass trad.
The two disciplines are only exclusive in your mind and the minds of other Supertopo-ans stuck in dualistic thinking to try to pump their ego and self-worth.
If you see what what I wrote about your friend as a slam, then you are seeing it through your own lense. No, I never met him, wish I had.
timeless footage:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 21, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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Didn't you retro-bolt Deadman's Rappel???
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 21, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
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Poor Rodney...
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DataMind
Social climber
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Aug 21, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
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What Rodney so eloquently articulated is that we need to find common ground to stand on. The whole "my route is better than your route" grows tiresome and doesn't really motivate ideals. In fact it hinders them.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Aug 21, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
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This thread is no longer "BOLD"
It's now lame
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 21, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
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Up at clear creek, dinosaur rock has seen retro bolted anchors all over it, RIGHT next to cracks where we USED to anchor climbs. ... But todays mind set is going the way of this very thing. The need for absolute safety over common sense and preservation.
First of all... dino rock is a pile of rotting choss.
2nd... lowering off anchors preserves the surrounding area FAR more than having everyone walk off... FAR, FAR more. 3/8" holes in the rock vs. 300' of steep eroding "trail" ... NO CONTEST. Just another case where you "know" it is better because that is how you did it and you say it is better, but in reality you are Rong.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 21, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
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Ah, did you get your feelings hurt?
Fact remains, the only descent rock at dyno rock is Edge of Doom, and even that ain't all that.
How many sets of anchors are up there now?
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 22, 2013 - 01:23am PT
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Good lord, does ron ever know when to shut up? Pardon my rhetoric....and his piss-poor grammar, spelling, and syntax. Pure comedy gold, keep talking...or whatever you call that stuff you type. Have fun dinking around at dinosaur rock and other 5.3 nevada chosspiles, that will save much more good climbing for the rest of us.
I agree with wes, a well placed anchor really has a profound affect on the surrounds. An anchor with questionable necessity in itself can show benefits in other arenas, such as erosion from walk-offs. Such logic is difficult for large egos or small brains to understand. Things change as the user group becomes larger. You cant avoid it. New problems pop up, old ones get bigger and more serious.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 22, 2013 - 07:54am PT
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I like how ron's best pussy insult to Wes is to call him a boulderer, which uses no protection at all. Yummy Irony.
... and yeah, butt fisting, at least by him a drink first. Or, is this a new offwidth technique?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2013 - 08:08am PT
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a mentor of mine in both life and climbing
shared with me that
above all,
even above the glaring ethical
differences that abound,
climbing is about community:
the brotherhood and sisterhood
established among our peers
whom share a passion for our pursuit.
and he was of the opinion
that my thread here, is no good,
and that it is damaging a
vein which courses from our heritage,
thru this present and into some future.
the stupid cheap shots displayed here
among a select few immaturites
have reinforced my friend's sentiment.
this has become one of the worst
threads that i've ever seen on this forum,
it really has brought out the beasts,
in their lowest form.
i wont delete it though,
because the immature and assinine folk
deserve their rightful seat within our theatre.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 22, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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It took me a while to realize drinking just made me feel like sh#t and did nothing but make ugly chicks fukable. I miss beer... I love beer... but I don't miss drinking one bit. Always glad to see people give that sh#t up... seen it ruin too many lives.
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