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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Nov 20, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
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I was secretly rooting for them to stick it out, but I don't really know how dangerous it is, so didn't say anything. Plus I don't know how long after it snows it becomes climbable again. I would love to know. I know that you can aid sooner, but I don't know about free climbing. Especially at that level.
Sun is out here in Wawona. We got about an inch of snow.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
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There clearly is danger, John. I don't think so much from the temperatures by themselves but from the issues of rock and icefall. There just isn't any predicting its paths and if you look in the webcam just above here, you will see there is nearly a foot of snow on top and there are iced-up areas that will be falling from all over the upper regions of the western faces. And you can assume the same for the Dawn Wall area. That is why there aren't any trees right up to the base of the walls. And they are going to have to wait it out for several days no matter what, to resume or less phenomenally, regroup next year. It does help that this storm does not come on the heels of a bunch of other earlier ones back to back---- the ice/snow etc accumulations are less and all new (so to speak) on the summit edges this way. I remember these early storms not causing a lot of icefall.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 20, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
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It's not a freakin' rule Werner. Why do you allways have to criticize everyones opinions? As if having an opinon on something is some moral sin.
I just think the cumulative effort from bottom to top in a single push defines a "climb." taking a 4-5 day rest break to shower and eat pizza sorta changes what is involved with climbing those upper pitches. Dontcha think?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 01:02pm PT
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No question Lambone. Absolutely it changes quite a lot of stuff and TC and KJ would agree, I have to think. That is why they were up there trying for a valid continuous. This party however will not be hiding the fact of a huge break (if they do in fact return) taken in the middle due to weather. It is the best anyone can do right now of course and the weather is going to keep coming for awhile apparently. And I am sure they are hugely disappointed not to just have a weather-free ascent, just climbing according to their plan and imagination. But if it turns out they return right away and get it down this year, that is fantastic and it is a valid ascent. At this point it must seem artificial to hang out 600-800 feet up in the pitch #8 area rock for 3 more days when they have so much fixed rope available on their route....They have been chasing this project really hard. It is clear they really mean to climb the thing ground-to-top and aren't woosing out.
No one can deny your point Lambone and it is an important one. And weather IS a part of rockclimbing, not just alpinism and mountaineering. They are up there late in the year to avoid the oven-like temperatures of that wall the rest of the year but have the menace of these storms to also play chess with among the other issues. They also have a big problem with a conflict now in Tommy's schedule.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Nov 20, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
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Leave it to the ankle biters and ball cuppers to confuse style with ascent.
Hey Matt, you ever fix pitches when doing El Cap routes? I already know the answer, so by your own logic I guess you didn't actually climb the route(s) you fixed on. Maybe they should stay up there and get rescued, like you had to on Glacier Peak?
This throwing stones and judging thing sure is easier than climbing routes at your limit.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Nov 20, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
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even if they wait it out, that rock needs to be dry because of the difficulty,
that would take a couple of 90 degree days and that ain't gonna happen til next spring,
plus the snow melt dripping off the top, time to bail.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 20, 2010 - 04:16pm PT
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Lambone if you included "continuous"'in your IMHO you'd been ok. WB did put the smiley kn there so no malice intended IMHO.
I wouldn't be at all surprised if some day they go for a 24 ascent.
I didn't. Realize when I started reading these threads that some of these pitches have never been freed. That really cool and goes back to what an adventure this climb was/is.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Nov 20, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
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Hannity is saying Warren Harding was controlling the weather from a cave in Purgatory and that bats were circling at Wine Tower.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
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as of 3:45 this afternoon:
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Nov 20, 2010 - 07:23pm PT
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El Cap, if that isn't a mushroom cloud I don't know what is. F the negativity. These guys are so far ahead of there time they should do whatever they think is best to keep the train on the tracks. BTW, lamb, bets have it that these two guys do the first continuous in the future just the way that Lynn Hill progressed over the years on the Nose.
DK
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HighTraverse
Social climber
Bay Area
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Nov 20, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
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I'm relieved they came down. It's been a nasty storm here in the Santa Cruz mtns, lots of cold rain, not a lot of wind (yet). Forecast 34 degrees tonight.
All moving towards Yosemite with about an 8 hour trip.
Current awesome pic from Sentinel Dome.
Pretty low snow level in the valley with the cold part of the storm still on the way.
Wonder how much gear they left behind.
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HighTraverse
Social climber
Bay Area
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Nov 20, 2010 - 07:48pm PT
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gives you an idea of the very cold and wet air to see the clouds condensing like that in the lee of ElDome.
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ShibbyShane
Trad climber
El Portal, Ca
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Nov 20, 2010 - 07:50pm PT
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Looks like they threw in the towel...
Just posted on K. Jorgeson's Twitter:
"Big storm brings an early end to this season. Only one thing to do: keep training and return! 2 minutes ago via Twitter for iPhone"
http://twitter.com/kjorgeson
Good luck next year guys!
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Nov 20, 2010 - 08:36pm PT
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Big applause for these maniacs! Is there any precedent even for what they did manage to accomplish over the last few days?
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Nov 20, 2010 - 09:01pm PT
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Respect your Mama..LIVE to climb again! good call, guys. Amazing climbing!
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 20, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
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Hey, they are alive and everyone is hopefully OK. So I am happy.
But I am bummed that they didn't get to finish it. The way things were going, they looked like a freight train. All of that work and training.
Applause for the effort and applause for not screaming for mama.
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HighTraverse
Social climber
Bay Area
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Nov 20, 2010 - 09:49pm PT
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Two stout, tough and smart climbers.
Recognized the odds were very bad, the likely consequences of continuing were severe to themselves and others and came back down.
Well done for a spectacular attempt. No doubt they'll try again and make it.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 20, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
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elcapinyoazz
This throwing stones and judging thing sure is easier than climbing routes at your limit.
dude, WTF are you talking about? Chill out with the insults. You are gonna bring up Glacier Peak...really? You must have missed all my posts in this thread where I said they should bail , and "smart move" when they did.
I'm not throwing stones or judging anyone. Just said I think a free ascent should be continous ground up to really claim it's been climbed. don't agree??? fine...I was rooting for them just as much as everyone else. Werner said, "they will just jug back up and finish it." and my thought was, I doubt it. For obvious reasons.
Yeah i've fixed aid routes a pitch it two. What's your point? I'm not out to prove anything. On our 1 IAD route we didn't fix....for personal reasons.
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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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Nov 20, 2010 - 10:37pm PT
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Hail, Lighting, and Thunder here in Santa Cruz. There might be a cell heading that way. Also, pretty amazing that you can follow the exploits of world class athletes on the web. It makes me happy that climbing still has some of its fringe status. It makes it seem more like a community yeah?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 20, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
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hey there lancebrock... say, i am glad though, that they are able to freely go with their gut feeling, as, safety-issue ARE good issues, too--even if it meant to "retackle" later...
well, job well done, being that whether going up, or coming down,
fine skills ARE required... :)
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