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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jan 10, 2010 - 09:36pm PT
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That is such a cool shot of Steve up there!
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barry
Sport climber
petaluma, ca.
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Jan 10, 2010 - 09:44pm PT
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Stevie, I want to wish you the best of luck. I have total confidence in you after watching you first hand on our Nose climb. Just don't make any "blonde" mistakes! You have to surf with me sometime, this is the season for surf, and cold, long, suffering paddles. Cold water and suffering are right up your alley.
Take care up there and shoot a bottle rocket for me,
Michael Hayes
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Anastasia
Mountain climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Jan 10, 2010 - 09:50pm PT
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:) Happy that you are still breathing. Nice work dude.
AFS
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Jan 10, 2010 - 10:56pm PT
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Good news on the safe return!
We always need good news around here.
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Jan 10, 2010 - 11:32pm PT
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Shipoopoi:
Good to have you back down. That was a bit of a nailbiter.
That photo upthread is great! Although I had that same image in my
head most of the last days since I remember seeing Genesis
looking left from that belay on WEML many years ago...
It's such a proud part of the Captain...so many roofs in that photo!
More than the climb though, which, let's admit, compared to
your Patagonian exploits, was not really that rad for you,
I really liked the way we could all follow you through this
thread. And it was cool that you didn't have an iphone or
too tight a connection. The daily calls from Gagner seemed like
just the right amount of contact to keep the drama. Each day,
I'd scan the forum for that daunting thread title. Paul,
obviously well-qualified winter wall dude as well as your buddy,
did a great job adding commentary to the report.
Yay Shipoopoi! Looking forward to a detailed report.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 11, 2010 - 12:25am PT
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A true Master!
From just one of the many armchair belayers....WAY TO TAKE IT DOWN!!!!
A big thanks to the G-man for the constant up to date info on THE MAN!
STYLIN.
Mucci
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jan 11, 2010 - 12:50am PT
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Yur still gonna die Dude!
You might have shrivel a bit first....
;-)
Karl
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2010 - 01:43am PT
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thank you everybody. ouch, typing hurts, hands swollen. hey, why don't blondes makes good typist? because they are all hunt n' peckers...hahaha.
so, too burnt too rap the route, plus i had to hike the massive rack down at some point. the final push, through the night, soaked wet through was quite miserable. i was too blonde to look at the top 4 pitches which drained badly from melting snow on top. this is a bad place this time of year. wiping the drizzle off my glasses to see, digging through the wet moss with my bare hands looking for a pin scar to slam an arrow into, my shoes full of water, my lead rope weighing 20 pounds saturated with water, all night long. total sufferfest and very life threatening sh#t. it was sooooo grim. i was like, whose idea was this...oh yeah, it was mine
so, hiked down, postholing in snow, till it got dark, then left the pig and staggered down to the car. retrieved my bag today and drove home to oakland. i still have to go rap the route to retreive my ropes(i fixed key pitches for retreat). tr to follow, with pics if somebody can help me.
great to be alive, i feel totally touched by all your post, and glad i could provide some entertaiment.
special thanks to gag nay. talking to him on the phone was like having a partner up there with me. also thanks to mark deger who relayed local weather reports to me.
did i mention i had company on the big stone with me. talk about ruining my wilderness experience. pat and pete did the tangeringe trip while i was up there, hiking it in 4 days.
two other guys, kids really, colin and ryan did the zodiac, sometimes doing as little as 2 pitches a day...but wtf, it was their first el cap route! you guys are my new heroes.
and once again, thanks everybody for the positive vibes. i was definitely feeling it. poopoi out, as in passed out.
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MH2
climber
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Jan 11, 2010 - 03:54am PT
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Thanks to everyone involved for an unusual experience and fine feeling, very different to the strong silent lone sufferer climbers are sometimes perceived as. The ones that go to places like Patagonia, anyway. But that trope has already been done to death. Very very nice to see a non-commercial (other than the ST embeddin - thanks Chris Mac, etc.) as-it-unrolls adventure.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Jan 11, 2010 - 04:07am PT
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"F" Patagonia and all that , brother . Just climb here in the california sunshine . O k ?
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Jan 11, 2010 - 06:45am PT
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Hello Steve,
I guess it’s right, blonde's do have more fun, especially when they lived to tell about it!!
Congratulations on beating, The Capitan again, especially in this weather.
You have single-handedly provided all of the armchair climbers with a vicarious thrill.
It was our own pre-winter Olympics warm up, thank you.
I am glad you are back on horizontal land.
I am sure you’re happy to be home and dry, not to mention warm.
Enjoy your victory.
Congratulations again,
From almost freezing Florida,
Park Rat
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 11, 2010 - 08:36am PT
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Proud effort Steve! I hope you found what you were looking for up there and that it wasn't all harshness. You certainly had the wall to yourself, at least for a little while! LOL
Anyhow, I hope the sword you pulled from the stone is pleasing and strengthens your armory por mas aventuras patagonicas! You are one wild and crazy sportsman, Baba!
Rest up and congratulations again!
Locked in the Louisiana icecap---Cheers
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jan 11, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
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good to see you are back home! not the best time to be on el cap, but hey it's the adventure eh!
ks
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jan 11, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
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nice job Steve, congrats! good luck on getting your ropes down...be safe. maybe wait until spring eh?
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 11, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
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I feel a little out of the loop on this; who is this Shipoopi guy (does he have a real name)? And just how old is he? ha
good job in any case. cheers
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
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well, here i go again. this time i got to hike up the rapells up el cap east ledges, and descent the dawn wall, to genesis, to the noase to retrieve my fixed lines and gear. if this is not the blonde way to solo a wall, i don't know what is. it's going to be committing to pull that rope on the first rapell seeing as how i'll have no rack whatsoever. hope those ropes don't get snagged. ciao amigos, shipoopoi
and for the last post, my real name is steve schneider, i live in oakland, am 49 years old, and never plan to solo a hard aid route in winter again...although i am super glad i did this one.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jan 13, 2010 - 09:43pm PT
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Super coooool Stevo! Maybe see you in the meadows again this summer, yer welcome to crash the site again and drink ALL my whiskey, I'll bring the Makers Mark this time and we'll toast up to YOU! Great Job!
Peace
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 13, 2010 - 09:49pm PT
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hey there, say, steve....
as to your quote:
and never plan to solo a hard aid route in winter again...although i am super glad i did this one.
one always knows---it is best to these things by one's "gut inspiration" and one knows, also, when not to repeat....
thanks for the share, so very glad you are home safe...
:)
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 13, 2010 - 09:53pm PT
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Maker's Mark? I'd love to join you guys!
Be safe, Steve, and no Blonde Moments up there, eh?
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