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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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Not only granite Bruce, Squamish granite. Which im told has special qualities. (i haven't been lucky enough to have sampled too many other kinds.)
i've been too busy climbing to post up this weekend. I got some pics edited last night, so should be able to get them on tonight when i get home!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2012 - 04:55am PT
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and remember that if the right side is getting a little ho-hum, just step over to the left side to up the ante on all counts.
+1
Relic: Sure - may I suggest a beer fueled speed top roping Exasperator competition? That would be resurecting a time honored tradition!
also Remember to bring cans, not bottles. The idea is that the climber must first withstand a barrage of empties until out of range. Another "handicap" is If you don't make it to the half way anchors by a certain highly optimistic time frame, 20 feet of penalty slack is doled out for the crux.
+1000
This has to happen! :) Especially if it's a "time horored traditon!". May I suggest next Sunday since Ghost is supposed to be in town? Perhaps 4ish late enough that most onlookers or suiters will be gone? Maybe earlier ;p Relic you can get the afternoon off right?
I told my pillar story within the first 22 messages so most of you have probably read it but here it is again for those who have not and what the hell it seems appropriate.
I led the pillar for my first time ever on the Summer Solstice this year. It was after work and still early season for me so it totally drained me. I had to rest on just about every piece on the way up.. At the top i had to transfer all the gear off my harness to get into the squeeze.. just barely!
When i got to the top and clipped the anchors, i looked up and understood immediately why they call it the "Sword of Damocles"! It looks like a giant guillotine just waiting to slice your melon!
I will add that when I got up to the base of that pillar and clipped into the anchor I was allready huffing and puffing from freeing all the way to the aid ladder and Ben had kindly left slings on the bolts instead of just draws like Josh did for Kyle.
I looked up at the mighty Split Pillar and I said to Ben "I don't think I can lead this thing today." So he says "We came all the way up here so you could do it man!".
We weren't really in any hurry because we both knew that I had come up here to test myself for the Grand Wall, and we were using my half ropes, which neither of us were 100% on the handling belay wise.
So I chilled for a bit, gathered my courage, and shouldered a hefty rack of cams before I set off into the void.
Anyways, You know the rest of the story I brought Ben up, we witnessed a truly once in a lifetime sunset at about 10pm and we peaced outta dodge. When we got down to the boulders it was very dark and neither of us had a light, so we stumbled out in the dark and made our way to the pub. :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2012 - 05:14am PT
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Luke says hi!
Hardingesque Camp 2 on Uncle Ben's
Little dots.
I Need one of those big football lenses for this stuff!!
This was last night, I talked to him briefly and he said that he'd fixed two pitches that day. I heard they got thier camp moved up to P4 today, but didn't get a chance to go get any shots before we left town.
They probaby got a couple more fixed today, so they should finish up sometime tomorrow.
Here is a story my buddy Kieran posted up about the ascent to camp 2. http://browniephoto.com/blog/
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MH2
climber
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Hi back to Luke.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Way to go hammock-hangers; stellar effort in early may.
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c-plus
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC, Canada
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May I suggest next Sunday since Ghost is supposed to be in town? Perhaps 4ish late enough that most onlookers or suiters will be gone? Maybe earlier ;p Relic you can get the afternoon off right?
Party at the Grand! Sounds like fun. Count me in!
And thanks to everyone for all their stories. It's been a great read...
-Cyrus
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Got out today with Relic...started after 3pm...
Big ups to Luke, hammocks suck but you guys looked solid up there.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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The power washer job looks hideous. Who did that?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I'm betting $5000 Anders had nothing to do with that scrub job.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2012 - 01:02am PT
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Ya I was telling Kyle today that we should go back and blend it out a bit so you can't tell so much.
Thanks FishBoy nice pics! Old Style ain't just some 5.9.. It is a pretty sweet 5.9.
Gotta get on caboose.
Andy- Nice pic! Where did you take that one from? What do you shoot with?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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What's the story with Cider Crack above it. I never noticed it BITD. Probably was covered in foliage. When did it get done?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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Tami and Peter did it. Any memories Tami?
OK I'm in so long as there's no fantastic new revelations about the gondola that needs immediate attention.... but maybe we could get WiFi from the base? We could all bring our lap tops (I guess I just revealed my age there.... Crack Berries I meant).
Well hopefully some of the people from that thread can come and maybe you can have a discussion about it in person? Which would probably be even more funny than the online one. If not I'll have my phone. You'll hate it, but it can post to supertopo. ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Old style/cider crack/with the 10d crack-traverse-slab finish is an awesome link up! Robin barley obviously recleaned that wall & even though it looks brutal you should have seen it before a pretty crusty number for sure. A friend an i did grub street a few years back before the rescrub & it was exciting! you had to do a mantel into a 2' deep ledge of salal & dirt that was so spooky with tiny gear a ways below! Now it's buffed so it shines, like crime of the century without the strollers. First time i did cider crack it was filthy as well, branches & lichen everywhere, so many good pitches down there! I think the log bridge is all good or has been rebuilt.
Edit: Is there a name for that 10d finish i mentioned? Anyone?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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So just what is the state of things on the Malemute these days? Given the pictures on this page, climbers are obviously active on at least some routes on the lower tier. Is everything available? Just certain areas? Or is it all done with one eye out for the man?
Does anybody climb Chasing Rainbows these days? Hugely under-appreciated climb. And what about Quagmire Crack? I always thought it was one of the best pitches at Squamish, but it didn't get a whole lot of love either.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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hola climbers..
long time lurker, first time poster here..
thought I'd share this rock porn of the kid from last weekends grand wall adventures..
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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There were a couple of parties in the no trespass zone. Still not supposed to be there but... enforcement is nonexistent. Chasing Rainbows, the first pitch is grown over. I did both pitches a decade and a bit ago, 2nd pitch was really good. I suspect it is grown over too. Quagmire Crack is in pristine shape, super clean. You can rap into it.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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That last pitch of Chasing Rainbows was destined to be a classic 30 years ago. One of the best pitches down there. J.H. route, I believe.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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That last pitch of Chasing Rainbows was destined to be a classic 30 years ago. One of the best pitches down there. J.H. route, I believe.
That's exactly how I felt about it. The first pitch is okay mostly because you know you're climbing The Black Dyke, rather than because the climbing is all that good, but the second pitch was a stunner. I had absolutely no idea what was up there when I got on it way back when, cuz you can't really see it from below, but wow, what a fine lead. (And yes, I'm pretty sure it was John's). Someone should give the bottom pitch a quick scrub so that people can start enjoying p. 2 again.
And for any of you young guys reading this, get your asses to the base of Quagmire Crack (from either above or below) and get on it. Four-star climbing on a long pitch in a spectacular location.
Edit: And speaking of John Howe, and pressure washing etc, I remember many years ago when word of the environmental destruction that passes for cleaning at Squamish seeped southward, somebody wrote a long rant in one of the mags about how horrible this was. When John saw it, he said "They just don't understand. Up here, the trees are winning."
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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+10000 for Quagmire, maybe best 5.10 crack in town.
Tried to do fungus razor once to get there, let's just say that by the time we were done with it we wound up walking back the trail instead. Very, very cool climb I need to go back to someday. The mantle is heinous but the traverse over to it is awesome!
Seems to rhyme with the name of someone who posts here?
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