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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 23, 2012 - 09:51pm PT
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Lake Loise is great....bomber quartzite is second only to Mt arapiles....
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Whitehorse Jeff
Trad climber
Fairfield, CT
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Apr 23, 2012 - 10:07pm PT
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Bruce: don't feel too bad about being upstaged; 2 of my climbing partners that week in the Kain hut had bivvied at the base of the Beckey/Chouinard before starting at dawn about 2 days before Peter and Hamish's solo ascents--they did manage to get back for dinner, but only just; meanwhile I had done the Krauss/McCarthy, East ridge of Bugaboo, SW of Snowpatch and McTech Arete with 3 different partners over 4 days and was feeling pretty chuffed--perfect rock , perfect weather, and no epics-- then the antics of the "big leaguers" brought us back to reality !
There was another bit of humor attached to our trip; one of our planned number preceded our arrival in BC by a week and went directly up to the Kain Hut. After a week there in mostly bad weather (heavy rain), he had only managed to solo the W ridge on Pigeon, with no view--he came out, called us to tell us to change plans because the weather sucked, paid a couple of hundred bucks to change his flight home, and bailed. We crossed paths in the airport in Calgary; we of course were not about changing plans-- then WE had 9 bluebird days in our 10 allotted and began praying for one bad weather day to rest our feet and knees from continual daily trips up and down the moraines and glacier and our swollen hands from all those wonderful granite cracks. For his move he earned the moniker "Bobbie Barometer" for the next few years!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 23, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
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Hey Mike, we should notify the RCMP if we climb tomorrow, with times of course.
That video is hilarious!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 23, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
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KFR, did he ever work before the age of 40?
Very cool Chounard-Becky story Anders!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 23, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
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How is it possible to have the words "senior climber" in the description of a photo of a climber wearing YELLOW LYCRA!!!!!!
That ain't right.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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Ya i saw it too.. Relic that's funny. On the Devils Tower thread today I found this: A strict system of screening qualified climbers has been worked out by the Park Service. All climbers must have proper equipment and experience, and a recommendation from a recognized climbing organiation.
I thought it was a very interesting idea considering noobs these days! :)
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 24, 2012 - 01:19am PT
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Too many Gondolas ?
Vancouver real estate prices giving you the blues ?
Frustrated because you can't climb 5.14 finger cracks ?
Las Vegas Foreclosures listings
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 24, 2012 - 01:20am PT
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How much for the shanty town?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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Got out to Murrin on Saturday and took a few photos..
Kyle on Washington Bullets 10c
I met Peder Ourom that day and he told me that he did the FA on this one with Darryl Hatten. He said "I did most of the scrubbin and he did most of the beer drinking." I asked him who did the sendin' and he said "I did". Nice guy. His kid and I had a nice little chat at one point but I can't remember his name.. I'm so brutal with that.
I of course was looking like a dumb monkey hanging ropes for the camera and using my jumars for the first time this year.
Py on Up For Grabs 5.8
Kyle trying to get a cam on the undercling on Washington Bullets 5.10c
Charlie the climbing dog
He climbed up with me to the top of brunser when I set the rope up!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 24, 2012 - 09:01am PT
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Now that's a five star dog photo! Peder's kid's name is Jens, nice kid. Actually, that "kid" is around 25 now. Wow. We were all in the Valley when Peder's wife, Louisa, was 8 1/2 months pregnant with the little bundle of joy. Peder was pretty motivated as he saw his life taking a wee bit of a change. In 5 days him and I did the rostrum, the nose, and astroman. I still remember topping out on the nose as a nasty storm was rolling in; we could see super-pregnant Louisa driving around in circles down by el cap meadows. We were a little far away but had no problem sensing the stress level.
Pretty cool, now Jens loves climbing!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
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Hamish- Jens thanks! Ya he was excited for sure. How could you not with a man as enthusiastic about climbing as Peder is? That was a pretty impressive tick list you guys pulled of in Yosemite :)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 24, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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And where is The Mouse's Tooth? Looks like fabulous rock.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Apr 24, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
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It's in the Joffre... If my memory serves correctly
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 24, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
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It's somewhere in North Joffre Creek. And that's not speculation, either. http://squamishmonkey.com/
Here's the Bear, as he's apparently now called, in Yosemite on that trip during spring of 1986. We are totally crushing Lunatic Fringe, without help from a gondola or anything. I don't remember seeing Haggis on that trip, but John and I were staying in Upper Pines, and so might not have crossed paths. IIRC, Jens was born a month afterward.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 24, 2012 - 10:36pm PT
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an obscure corner of washington
If you want Washington obscurities, get on down here and we'll give you a tour.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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Thanks for the pics Bruce K! Looks amazing!
Great photo of "the bear" Anders, I recognized him right away :)
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 24, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
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Yah I was there Anders...probably couldn't afford the British Properties up there at the Pines. Too bad we don't get to see any of the Bear's pics. here cause we were a little light on friends if I recall. The camming type.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 25, 2012 - 12:35am PT
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It was John's idea to stay at Upper Pines, for a change from Camp 4. I've never stayed anywhere but Camp 4 before or since then. It may be a slum, but it's a friendly slum, with many good memories.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 25, 2012 - 09:58am PT
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Ya, well there's nothing quite like impending.....ca ca ca ca co co comittment. Ya, that's it, mixed with being a pa pa pa pa parent!
It was great to see what the Bear could scratch his way up while his wife could barely fit behind the steering wheel.
Peder had such great mountain sense, really. There we were, bivied for a night on camp 5 and he woke me up at 3 or 4 telling me to grab my headlight and start leading because he could see a storm coming from the west. I did, and we motored the best we could up the top part. We hit that slabby finish at the top of the nose just as all hell broke loose. So close. It was probably late morning but it was pouring rain, mixed with snow... just terrible. I don't know what the hell we would've done if the Bear hadn't got us underway in the early darkness.
That storm went on for a few days and YOSR had to go pluck several parties off the wall. Way to go Peder!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Apr 25, 2012 - 10:25am PT
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O.K., while we're babbling about pregnant lovlies. Tim (from Invemere Tim fame), Peder, and I head er up to astroman. Tim is so excited because it may be his last chance for a killer route before Tami gets (well, you know). Anyway, the guy is in heaven.
Tim was leading the fourth pitch and looking good. At one point he gets himself stemmed out for a breather and CRACK, he dislocated his shoulder. Oh man, the pain the poor guy was in. He lowered to the belay, his lower lip was dragging on his harness he was so bummed. Poor guy.
We tied our two ropes together and lowered the dad-to-be down to the ground. Peder and I selfishly went up. Tim hiked back down to his beautiful wife, then they went back to Canada and made some beautiful kids. Not sure if he's been back to the valley since.
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