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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
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We did the 10b finish and I was yelling at Luke asking if he was belaying and of course he couldn't hear me because he was halfway up the slab of Bananna peel. So I gave Kyle a hip belay through what I thought was the crux but which turned out to be just the last slab moves and I ended up halfway up the slab while he was on the crux...
We cruised up bpeel and did boomstick in under an hour and bailed before it rained.
It was pretty darn fun. I've simuled the bpeel boomstick combo before but not from the bottom like that.
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Whitehorse Jeff
Trad climber
Fairfield, CT
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Apr 23, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
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Tami: you're correct about Les MacDonald coming from the Felling, a section of Newcastle in Northumberland, northeast England. His younger brother Dave was killed in a car accident in Dec. 1985. Dave was a great mate of Kevin McLane's back home, a proud Geordie like him and one of my best climbing partners. Dave's son Jeff is currently living in Vancouver and climbs often in the Squamish area. I'm an east coast Yank lurker on this site, and wish I were closer to Squamish, as my 2 trips there have given me many fond memories. I'll be back, not this year but in the future for sure.
BTW, about 6 of us from New England were in the Bugs in '83 when you, Peter and Hamish were there and we have often reminisced about Peter coming back to the hut having soloed in a day all the routes that our whole group had done separately in our week there! We were pulling beers out of the stream when PC got back, asked you what there was for supper and you mentioned a head of lettuce. He said something to the effect that he would quite like a salad and you answered " You've just proved you have 2 perfectly good hands. You can get it yourself." We thought that was just classic!
I also remember Hamish coming back to the hut that morning while we were having a late breakfast, looking a bit stunned--somone in the hut asked him where he'd been, he responded that he and Peter had just soloed the Beckey/Chouinard, they said "no you didn't " and he responded quietly "actually we did!"
We , although all much older (then and now) were duly impressed.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 23, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
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As I've worked several summers in the bush doing geological exploration, doing a lot of falling, ghost might be surprised yet again. Everything in its place, eh?
I mostly work on projects that are some distance from the nearest road, or in 'climber' places. That's more than enough, and as Tami says, there's always a concern about repeat offenders.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 23, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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Dang that Hamish and Croft usurping us - thus no one seems to remember Dave and I returning to the hut on that historic day ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
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With Squamish as crowded as it has become, are many people saying "F*#k this! I'm going to look for something else"? Or are they all just standing in line for the same old routes?
It's only really busy up to say 5.10- on classic routes that are in the Squamish select guide as well.. After that it starts to mellow out alot.
Trick to Skywalker is go early or late and if you go late park across the road so as not to get locked in.
I think Rambles is going to split some more parties up and make the Apron less congested too. I saw more people on Over the Rainbow, Sickle, Sparrow, Slab Alley, One Scoop, then I ever have in past years.
edit We have lots of options still, FA's, Classics, New Stuff, Obscure stuff... Lots... I'm just trying to tick off all the classics you guys left me!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 23, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
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Dem ropes really slow ya down in the mountains. At least Dave and I got off the drugs for a day and outta bed and climbed a world class route.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 23, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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The lower Apron slab routes are great. I hardly ever see anyone on the Bottom line, and ever since I climbed it once, I don't think I have done the scramble up to the base of the 'popular' climbs.
I really look forward to getting on the rock now. Last night I dreamt I skipped some bolts on a climb to make a fair means ascent..... lol.
I plan on going up this weekend assuming the weather is nice. Anyone wanna put me up Saturday night? I might camp out in the boulders, old school style.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Apr 23, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
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Just go sleep under Rat Rock. I ate all the rats so you'll be safe.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 23, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
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Sleep on top of the Squaw. She is pretty accommodating.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Apr 23, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
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As of right now, Cacodemon cave is my plan.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
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It was just an example of one of the new crags. there's lots more obviously.
Why don't you tell us about your new alpine stuff??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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looks fun :) got any summer pics?
Just saw this image of Keith Reid again when i was perusing some old threads.
Photo Whistler Publication MH2 Posted It.
Notice it's Rogues and there is a river below but then they filled some of it with sky :) wow.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
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Lake Louise?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
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nope it's on the list. i've seen the back of the lake write-up the KM's new book.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Apr 23, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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KFR, such a shining star. Gotta luv the guy and a great representative for "Senior climbers" still in their prime despite old age
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
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when were those pics taken Bruce?
Nice shot btw. I know i'm a pussy. :)
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